black watch ,older kilt, piped or barrel pleat at fell, similiar to military box.
i am preparing to hand wash, and baste to repleat.
the question is "should the pleats be box pleated to hem, or in this case, is it correct for the barrel pleat to transition to knife pleat directly below the fell?"
the first case seems like it would particularly difficult to achieve in the 20oz fabric, as the under roll would be approx 3/8 inch.
i find no indication that it was ever pleated this way except for the first pleat (which is box pleated to the hem.) the current pleating seems to transition directly from barrel/box to knife pleat directly below the fell, However, it seems to me that the pleats are in a reverse direction as i would expect to find them, which of course begs the question, was this box pleated to the hem in order that the pleats would appear to be going in the expected direction?