We were indeed lucky with the atypical weather, and completely midge free, although for our first holiday in four years, I reckon we were due I was glad we got a heavy mist sweeping in as we left the Isle just so my girl wouldn't get completely the wrong impression

I think Staffin's a lovely place, Riverkilt, with so many croft houses and I like the church particularly. You look out from the Columba 1400 centre cafe there up the sweep of the landscape to the Trotternish Ridge. I hope I'll be able to go back to have a look at the iron age dwellings some time.

Thanks, acaig, there was a time when I cared only for practicality in dress, but I'm a lot more self-concscious now, especially in my relatively new kilted kit


Kilmaluag Bay, near the Aird at the northern point.
I'd have preferred to be cycling rather than imposing another car on the small roads of Skye, had fitness been less of an issue. You feel the place much more when you are cycle-camping.



Duntulm Castle, sadly now fenced off due to the continuing crumbling of the site. It is a pity that the ancient stronghold contested so bloodily between the MacLeods and MacDonalds, visited and admired by James V, scene of a Jacobite ball on the eve of the '15, should be abandoned and quarried for stone for the MacDonald house of Monkstadt and quite astonishing that the ruination of it has only accelerated unchecked in recent years, the carving of a MacDonald galley only falling in 1990.

The monument commemorates the MacArthurs, hereditary pipers to the MacDonalds. Nearby, the Museum of Island Life has a touching collection of artefacts, although the main display on weaving is of the tradition of overshot coverlet weaving and some tweeds, rather than tartans specifically. I did spot a plaid in one croft, but real life in the Isles seems far from the Victorian imagination.



Peinchorran, the end of the road and four miles to go to Sligachan by foot.



Dunvegan, seat of the MacLeods for seven centuries, home to the legendary Fairy Flag and the remarkable Dame Flora MacLeod, 28th Chief, who did so much for the clan societies.
The gardens below seem a great achievement, blended into the location, yet diverting and diverse. Access is very practical with cafe and an extra shop at the car park, all day tickets so you can wander a bit etc. It's not on the same scale as typical National Trust houses in England, but far more stirring.


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The historic core of the castle is somewhat subsumed beneath the "romantic restoration" of Robert Brown for the 25th Chief between 1840 and 1850. Not to my taste, but the place was barely habitable and without the biscuit tin makeover I doubt it would have survived as well as it has. I have to say I'm relieved that the plan to sell the Black Cuillin to pay for the repairs fell through. The 30th chief got a new roof on last year and the horrible boarded up windows are scheduled to be sorted in July with the help of Historic Scotland.

The castle still has some atmosphere and has a wealth of portraits and artefacts of interest, among the most on-topic of which is the 'swagger portrait' of 'The Wicked Man', now rebranded 'The Red Man': Norman the Jacobite 22nd chief, truly dazzling face to face. While the late 19thC and 20thC chiefs sport the Green MacLeod, Norman wears a shoulder plaid of what I understand has been identified on the forum as Murray of Tullibardine, with trews and coat in check. The very nice local guide described this as tweed, which foxed me. She'd never seen a contemporary kilt, let alone one in denim, which foxed her.

The 24th chief is depicted in the entrance hall with a panoply of weapons worn for the visit of George IV which are on display in the North Room and wears the green MacLeod, but holds a box resembling yellow MacLeod. Another guide was non the wiser, but the Scottish Register of Tartans suggests it is a snuffbox very similar to the version of the yellow MacLeod in the Vestiarium Scoticum.

I delighted in the modest collection of weapons and military memorabilia, particularly as most were 19th British regimental rather than the expected walls full of claymores crossed behind targes but I don't know if they would be of interest to most.



Macleod's Tables, Healabhal Bheag and Healabhal Mor. Ah, I'm sure you all know the story recorded by the Rev. Canon R. C. Macleod in 1927...