Is there a historical/traditional precedence for pleating to the sett vs. the stripe? Meaning, say…100 years ago, would someone generally pleat to the sett unless it was a regimental kilt?

Just thought I would ask…I realize in the end, one can decide to pleat however they choose. But I am not asking about “permission” to pleat in a particular manner--I am trying to understand the historical context (if there is any).

Thanks!