Military Box Pleats: how much "excess" to cut-out of the fell?

**jhockin** · 20th July 11, 10:03 AM

just to clarify - Military box-pleats look like this

Originally Posted by Pleater

It depends - like most things which are a matter of experience.

If the fabric is firmly woven then you can cut out more than if it is loose and likely to fray.

Maybe if you trim to 1 inch from the fold - as the pleats are 1 inch wide, so the number of layers are minimised but there is a smooth surface for pressing, no lumps or dips to make an uneven surface.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

thanks Anne - I may try that; I figure always better to leave a little extra, rather than cut-out too much

; esp. since both way2fractious & JohnH both warned about leaving more seam allowance than 1/2" ( but didn't specify HOW MUCH to leave)

**jhockin** · 20th July 11, 08:11 PM

well, without further experienced advice, I've gone ahead

I've left 2" seam allowance , along the sides, curving down to 1" above the bottom of the fell. The pleat reveal, in the fell, is about 1" wide, so, on the inside, each side of the pleat, in the fell, overlaps about 1" ( or 2 pleats).
I'll see how it works out - better too much than not enough

( i hope)

**Aspiringloser** · 20th July 11, 08:56 PM

If the pleats are stitched to the bottom of the fell and you do proper steeking, then why do you need to leave more than 1/2 inch? I realize there is more bulk due to the extra fold but I just don't understand why you can't cut out the bulk the same as a knife pleat. Someone in the know please fill me in. What tartan are you working with by the way?

**slohairt** · 20th July 11, 09:50 PM

I just saw this thread now. You would just leave the same amount (1/2") as if you were making a typical "tank". After all, you aren't using more fabric.

**slohairt** · 20th July 11, 09:51 PM

Originally Posted by Aspiringloser

If the pleats are stitched to the bottom of the fell and you do proper steeking, then why do you need to leave more than 1/2 inch? I realize there is more bulk due to the extra fold but I just don't understand why you can't cut out the bulk the same as a knife pleat. Someone in the know please fill me in. What tartan are you working with by the way?

Royal Canadian Air Force.

**jhockin** · 21st July 11, 08:55 AM

The reason I've been so cautious, about leaving more than 1/2" ( and posted this thread, asking for info from those who had actually made a MBP), is that BOTH "way2fractious"
( post # 4 @ "http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f116/military-box-pleat-trial-16994/" )
and "JohnH"
( in post # 13 @ "http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f144/military-box-pleat-kilt-27980/index2.html" )
in their posts ( while making a MBP), note they think there should be more than 1/2" seam allowance left.
Leaving a 2" wide seam allowance, as I've done, means that there are 6 layers, of material, across most of the fell. If I trim that down to 1" wide side seam allowance ( which I can still do) would leave 4 layers - which I may do, to avoid the dreaded "pillow-butt" - and would still leave a good "base" for the hair canvas.
Doing the steeking,now - and thinking about trimming that additional 1" off the sides of the cut-outs. Suggestions?

**jhockin** · 24th July 11, 07:49 AM

Yes, this is the RCAF tartan.
I've trimmed the seam allowances, along the sides, to 1", and down to 1" above the bottom of the fell. This leaves 4 layers of material, at each pleat, in the fell. I also basted down the layers of seam allowance, to ensure that they lay flat, on each pleat, while sewing-in stabilizer & hair canvas.