Traditional Civilian Highland SHIRTS

[saxandpipes]

I would certainly be interested in this, but would such a tailor be capable of starching the bib of the shirt properly?

Those asian tailors are rather handy, I must say.

Singapore, Hong Kong... find a good one, and you can get just about anything made the way you want it!

Cheers,

Michael

[saxandpipes]

I found these guys a while back. They have some rather nice looking shirts, and a large range of collars:

http://www.darcyclothing.com/shop/ev...irt-sh229.html

I haven't bought anything from them yet, but it seems like they know what they are doing as far as my non-expert eyes can see.

Cheers,

Michael

[MacLowlife]

Thanks CmcG.

My poor tech skills include pretty iffy photographic ones. The tartan shirt actually has a pleated bosom and a removable tape for studs- and French (double) cuffs. I am still hoping someone can ID the tartan.

There is a reason it still has its tags attached, but yes I did pay money for it. Nobody said a word about my mannekin wearing a belt with a PC instead of a waistcoat.

[longhuntr74]

Man this was a longggggg thread. I read it back when it was still on page 1...and just came back today. I'm about to make it longer, so hold on.

Here's a personal example from 3 weeks ago, at dinner after about 80 people spent the day thumping, throwing, and generally thrashing each other up in the Marin Headlands:

Dale, just wanted to say you look great here. I especially love the sporran and jacket!

It is getting harder and harder here in the states to find shirts without a button down collar.

As somebody already noted, I don't think this statement is exactly true. I think, Matt, what you were referring to is that it is almost impossible to find tattersal or gingham/checked shirts without a button down collar here in the US. I would absolutely agree with that statement.

The button down collar shirt is a distinctly American icon...blue oxford with button down collar specifically. It's very preppy/collegiate. Since tattersall and gingham shirts are generally placed in the casual category, it became the norm to make them with button down collars. That being said, I've noticed a marked increase in non-button collar shirts recently...and a growing popularity of spread collar shirts (which is a European influence). There has also been a recent fashion trend to introduce patterns into business attire that was formerly limited to the ubiquitous white or light blue button down shirt...so there may yet be hope for the return of spread or point collar (non buttoned) tattersal or gingham shirts in the US market.

And while I do like button down collared shirts, I do not like them when wearing a necktie - to me, the button down collar looks 'wrinkly' with a necktie, and not as smart and their unbuttoned counterparts. I like to wear button down collared shirts for casual wear, without a necktie - think pink gingham button down collared shirt with a pair of khakis, a coloured web belt, perhaps a navy blazer (pocket square of course) - if going to dinner or something similar, and a casual loafer or driving loafers with or without socks. I do not wear button down collared shirts with Highland attire, but again, this is my personal preference.

Cheers,

Kyle has hit the nail on the head here...button down collars do hold a place in a wardrobe...but they have their limitations. I don't wear ties with button down collar shirts. I am, personally, not opposed to wearing them with highland wear...but it wouldn't be with a tie...probably just with a tweed jacket and unbuttoned collar...possibly a vest or sweater as well. That being said, I appreciate and understand Jock's point that a traditional Scot would not wear them...that's because you probably don't find them in stores there. As I've already stated...button down collars are an American tradition.

I should have been more specific, I'm pretty picky.

I don't like cotton/anything blends. Barring a few % of spandex for stretch I like 100% cotton.

I prefer a more athletic cut shirt, not that I'm at my most athletic anymore, but I think most shirts are cut WAY too wide in the waist for a given arm/collar measurement.

I also tend to stay away from Oxford weaves. They're just too thick for me, I get too warm. I prefer broadcloth.

as I said, I'm pretty picky.

ith:

Man...you are picky!! LOL

Seriously though, I'm also glad that many makers have started offering tapered and slim fit shirts. I agree with you and Zardoz that the cut of regular shirts is ridiculously voluminous for somebody of proper proportions. It seems as though "Regular fit" has become synonymous with "big mens" in America. I wish our tailoring here in the US were more like European lines. I can't find a sportcoat to fit me to save my life...broad shoulders and narrow waist.

I've always thought it odd that as the "normal" level at which trousers are worn moves down, the ends of the shirt tails move up. It is really frustrating.

I think it has something to do with the (relatively) new acceptance of un-tucked shirts in casual environments.

I have nothing against untucked shirts...but people need to realize that there is a difference between a shirt that is meant to be worn untucked and a traditional button down casual/business shirt. Wearing a traditional shirt untucked just looks sloppy. Shirts that are meant to be worn untucked should generally be cut short and have a different profile along the bottom hem (typically cut straight across at about 2" below the top of the pants). This is definitely a modern style/trend and there is absolutely nothing wrong with it, IMO...but it is a casual style and shouldn't be thought of as an alternative to proper business/professional attire. All that being said, I've not really had a problem with a traditional button down shirt being too short...but I can imagine there are some of you long-trunked individuals that might. I might be nice if manufacturers made them 1-2" longer...but that equates to increased cost.

[WolfmanJack]

Not my cup of tea...although, just perhaps, if the shirt fabric were in the same size sett as the kilt and presented on the bias, as is often done with tartan waistcoats, it might work. Allan Cumming wore this to receive the OBE from Princess Anne:


Here is a full-length view of Cumming's kit, discussed elsewhere on this forum:

[Spartan Tartan]

Here are the images, though I'll reserve my judgment just yet:

This actually hurts my eyes...

[cruiser348]

Not the first time I've said this in discussions of highland fashion, but, I agree with Jock. I'm not a fan of wearing a tartan style shirt with a kilt. I would think them more for casual wear with a pair of khakis or other pa*** myself.
As far as not mentioning the use of a belt with a PC in the picture it's easy to understand. My eyes were too overwhelmed to notice until after it had been mentioned.

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

It might work with a dinner jacket, but you'd have to be Rodney Dangerfield to attempt it with a kilt...

[creagdhubh]

It might work with a dinner jacket, but you'd have to be Rodney Dangerfield to attempt it with a kilt...

Quite right Scott! With that specific shirt, the outfit is entirely too busy. I would stick with shades of solid colours, tattersals, ginghams, and checks with the kilt - but not shirts that look even remotely close to a tartan sett. I know you were experimenting, and hey, there isn't a better group to ask than the auld rabble, right?! Below are a few of my own (including a few others) examples.

Sandy (JSFMACLJR) and I in a rather 'deep' conversation - we both are wearing tattersal/check style shirts with striped neckties.


This photo has been posted to the forum before; Macpherson men during our annual Clan Macpherson Gathering and Rally in Badenoch - various checks and styles.


I know, I am making an unusual face! Light blue and white tattersal shirt.


Always a fine example, my Chief, Sir William Alan Macpherson of Cluny and Blairgowrie, TD, and Sandy Macpherson of Edinburgh at the Eilan in Newtonmore - both in shirts and neckties that compliment and contrast, but do not distract.


Cheers,

[WolfmanJack]

I find it interesting that Sir William and Sandy Macpherson are both wearing tweed jackets in precisely the same pattern. In fact, one of the "Macpherson men" in the second photo is also wearing that very tweed. Does that particular tweed have a certain connection with the Macpherson Clan?