Traditional Civilian Highland SHIRTS

[CMcG]

CMcG will do a lot for you,


but he is not willing to take a bullet for your bad shirt choice...

Sorry to throw you under the bus there MacLl, but I've been happily taking my lumps over on Critique my Summer Kilt Wear II Of course you were careful to say that you didn't consider that tartan shirt to be traditional...

Would you care to tell us what your plan is and why it still has tags?

[MacLowlife]

The shirt has its tags because I can't work out a plan for it.- and no occasion has presented itself.

I think MoR is correct, it may work with a dinner jacket. It may even work with a Tartan dinner jacket, if the planets line up just so. But it is sitting in the meantime. One thing is clear, I won't be wearing it with a Dress Gordon kilt anytime soon.

But I remain curious as to the identity of this tartan. Under very strong light, in addition to black and white, you can see dark green and dark blue stripes. There are overplaid stripes of yellow and red. The yellow overplaid lines cross on the blue and the red ones cross on the red. That is like MacLeod of Harris, only there is that white in there...

[Cygnus]

I definitely look forward to investigating the reputedly excellent and affordable tailors of Hong Kong. Unfortunately, I won't be there until the start of September, so don't hold your breath on the report...

Any more details on these stiff front, button-up-the-back, detached collar shirts that MacLowlife is talking about?

So... it's the end of September. Any success in finding a good tailor for formal shirts, CMcG?

[CMcG]

So... it's the end of September. Any success in finding a good tailor for formal shirts, CMcG?

Thus far I have not encountered the rear closure, stiff front, formal shirts with detachable collars described earlier in this thread. Hong Kong is very modern and most tailors here seem to pride themselves on eschewing anything older in style. Armed with photos, diagrams and descriptions, I might be able to have someone make one up for me. Part of the problem is that I have never seen or worn a traditional formal shirt to know exactly what to ask for... that being said, there are plenty of tailors around here that could make a formal shirt that follows the more current front closure, attached collar style.

After parsing through some other fora, I found a recommendation for Legal Tailor. The are headquatered in Hong Kong but tour around to many countries doing fittings. The offer fully bespoke tailoring and, as their name implies, also make court dress for barristers, which involves detachable collar shirts. Their starting price for shirts appears to be less than Darcy (as mentioned by saxandpipes in post #92). I haven't contacted them yet though, so I'm not sure if they do the full traditional specs formal shirt but with ties to legal traditions they seem like a good bet.
http://www.legaltailor.com/tailored_shirts

Is there a happy medium between the traditional and contemporary versions of a formal shirt? What is most essential? It seems like a front closure with detachable collar might be a more easy and affordable option...

On a more successful note, I did have a couple shirts custom made at a little shop on the second floor of a shopping arcade in Mong Kok. One is more smart casual tattersall with medium spread collar (built in stays), regular cuffs. The other is a dressier white with a subtle check patter, wide spead collar (also built in stays), French cuffs (with CMcG monogram). Neither have breast pockets and both are a perfect fit with extra long body so they stay tucked in. They cost about $35 CAD each and took a week to make from one extensive set of measurements. Unfortunately for my internet brethren, they only do in-person sales.

[MacLowlife]

Built in stays only SOUND good. Next time, see if they will make removable ones. This may be illogical prejudice, but I think the general marketplace bears me out.

I think you are right about a shirt with removable collar buttoning up the front. Go ahead and get several styles of collar...But ask them to put the little Napoleon slit in the side ( left, vertical, about 5 inches, bound all around) so that you can get to the other side of your studs without ruining the starch job. I would shoot for a nice pique bib, but you might ask about pleats instead. One thing about custom is the chance to show your "cute" side. Remember Gordon Gecko's sideways striped shirts? Somebody did that just to show his shirts were custom made. A corollary for formal shirts is to have the bib and collar and cuffs in traditional white, with the body and sleeves in some fairly outrageous color or pattern. Because nobody sees- at least until you want them to... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brooks-Broth...item2567d7db49

Your big advantage is to find out what they are giving you before you leave town...So often the order is in person, but the delivery is by post...

[CMcG]

Built in stays only SOUND good. Next time, see if they will make removable ones. This may be illogical prejudice, but I think the general marketplace bears me out.

I think you are right about a shirt with removable collar buttoning up the front. Go ahead and get several styles of collar...But ask them to put the little Napoleon slit in the side ( left, vertical, about 5 inches, bound all around) so that you can get to the other side of your studs without ruining the starch job... <snip>

I actually asked for removable stays and the tailor gently but firmly told me they would be built-in. This is my first experience with bespoke clothing but it rather mirrors Jock Scot's story about asking a THCD tailor for some variation on the traditional Argyll and ending up with a standard traditional Argyll. That being said, competition is stiff around here and I'm sure there are plenty of tailors that would make me a shirt with removable stays.

Thanks for the tip about the "Napoleon slit." Is that a technical term or just a creative description?

I'm thinking that maybe my best bet for traditional Highland* shirts would be the only tailor in town who makes kilts. Yuen is recommended by the local Saint Andrew's society but also has a good reputation for Saxon suits and formal wear. I'm a little afraid to walk into his shop though... I might walk out without the funds to support myself here for the next 8 months

* Highland as in what has been discussed in this thread and seems typical of traditional Saxon shirts too. Not to be confused with those poofy, laced at the neck things.

[MacLowlife]

I am afraid I am the one who came up with that term. I have seen it used to describe a pocket in a similar location. If the tailor doesn't immediately know what you mean, think of a slit, midway between the placket and the side seam, big enough to get your hand into. It ought to be finished like the rest of the shirt, and designed so it won't gap- unless you gain a lot of weight.

I agree with you about willful tailors, but I would think seriously about going elsewhere if he is not going to make the collar the way you want it. I hope the shirts are pleasing enough that you can overlook the stays.


By the way, for those not in the land of economical custom tailoring, Jos Bank is offering Buy One Get Two Free on "executive" shirts, including a few spread collar checks.

[Jack Daw]

Once again, I'm late to the party. I wear tattersol, gingham, solid, button-down collared, free collared, band collared, breast-pocketed, dark, light, nylon tech, and cotton shirts with my tartan kilts. The sorts of shirt I won't wear are the "Jacobite" style, T-shirt, and plaid.

[TheNaughtyScot]

I definitely like the tattersal print with the kilt. As for the style of shirt, be it button-down collar or point, I think it just matters on how you wear it. I've seen some great shots of both in this thread and received some good ideas for future engagements.

[M. A. C. Newsome]

I thought I'd just throw this out here... for those of you looking for a good quality custom made shirt at a reasonable price, check this out:
http://shirtsyourway.org/

Even better, the profits from the sales go to support the Scottish Tartans Museum!