Sett Size

[Paul Henry]

I was going to mention Isle of Skye as well. I really like the look of the tartan but prefer the look of it in wool rather than the PV. I seem to remember reading that a lot of this is due to the size difference in yarns?

I guess my question is this: Is the yarn size that different between PV and 16oz wool or does a lot of the sett size difference due to changing the thread count?

It so happens I am working on two different Isle of Skye kilts at the moment, both fabric from Marton Mills, but one in 16 oz the other in 13 oz.The photo is of both of them side by side
The thread size in the lighter weight one is a little bit finer, so that makes a smaller sett. Truth be told I much prefer the 16 oz , but I'm making what the clients wanted!

[Joshua]

A minor correction to KWD's post - my tartan is Marton Mills Davidson Ancient, not Modern. Comparing it with other items I have in Davidson that aren't PV (sash, scarf, and scrap tartan remnants from Lochcarron), I notice that on the Ancient from MM - the red grid line goes through the black and blue warp/weft, whereas on Davidson Modern from other mills it appears to only go through the Black warp/weft (I could be wrong on this one tho, not having the two in front of me). That would make the red "grid" appear much larger.

Mine is also in PV, and considering the MM PV line seems to be aimed more at the School Uniform market than kilts, I would understand the smaller set size.

[fshguy]

As it is a matter of proportions, I feel that one should factor in the size of the individual wearing the kilt. My Robertson Red from Robert Noble has quite a smaller sett size than the typical offering. However, I feel it works better for my body type.


Conversely, my Wyvern sporran, while beautifully crafted, gets little wear because it feels disproportionately large for my frame.


It is somewhat humorous for me to read the frequent posts about individuals needing extra long garters, or barrel-chested jackets, when I seem to have just as much trouble locating items for my short stature. I’ve been hunting a second hand 42 Short tweed jacket for years.

[KWD]

A minor correction to KWD's post - my tartan is Marton Mills Davidson Ancient, not Modern. Comparing it with other items I have in Davidson that aren't PV (sash, scarf, and scrap tartan remnants from Lochcarron), I notice that on the Ancient from MM - the red grid line goes through the black and blue warp/weft, whereas on Davidson Modern from other mills it appears to only go through the Black warp/weft (I could be wrong on this one tho, not having the two in front of me). That would make the red "grid" appear much larger.

Mine is also in PV, and considering the MM PV line seems to be aimed more at the School Uniform market than kilts, I would understand the smaller set size.

My Mistake Joshua, I thought you had the Modern, I really am a little more jealous now as I have always wanted an Ancient!

[figheadair]

Matt,

I'm generally with you on a larger setting for a kilt. Conversely, I'd usually recommend a smaller setting for trews.

[Tartan Hiker]

This is something that had bothered me for years. If the mills that make PV tartan (are you listening MM?) would double their thread counts I'd be much more inclined to use them for kiltmaking. PV tartan setts are just too small for my taste (personal opinion!). I've always assumed that the bulk of their fabric is being sold for school girl skirts or jacket liners (where small sett would be much preferable), and that we are such a small fraction of the market that it isn't economically feasible to produce larger sett fabric.

Or maybe they just don't understand that thread counts can be manipulated...

[Joshua]

On the bright side of the smaller setts, I think they look really good pleated to stripe. Lots of "animation" in the pleats.

[Spc. Scott]

Thank you for the picture Paul! I guess the yarn size will change quite a bit from 16oz to 13oz. And likely even more so for PV.

I didn't realize that it was that drastic of a change going from 16 to 13.

[be da veva]

I’ve been hunting a second hand 42 Short tweed jacket for years.

I'm a 42r and I'm always finding 42s..... I've tried to make a 42s work for me, but it doesn't fit right or feel right....

[fshguy]

I'm a 42r and I'm always finding 42s..... I've tried to make a 42s work for me, but it doesn't fit right or feel right....

I would be very appreciative if you would share any new finds as they pop up.
Thanks!