Stillwater shadow tartan

[Jerry]

The Stillwater heavyweight kilts are wool, and are nice for what you are buying. I have one in the black shadow tartan that has shrunk a bit( or maybe I've put on a bit of weight). However, the sewn pleats in the back are not cut out like you would see from Matt, Rocky, or most any other kilt maker. Thus, it kind of feels like you are wearing a pillow in the back of the kilt.

[Mike S]

However, the sewn pleats in the back are not cut out like you would see from Matt, Rocky, or most any other kilt maker. Thus, it kind of feels like you are wearing a pillow in the back of the kilt.

I modify mine by cutting out and properly reconstructing the kidney area of the pleats in the proper manner. When done (with minimal difficulty and effort), the kilt drapes and fits as it should on a bespoke kilt.

The heavyweight wool offerings are a great value for money. Not exactly equal to my tanks, but then it didn't cost $600+ either!

[Nylo]

Can you expand on what you actually did?

Many Thanks,
Nylo

I modify mine by cutting out and properly reconstructing the kidney area of the pleats in the proper manner. When done (with minimal difficulty and effort), the kilt drapes and fits as it should on a bespoke kilt.!

[Panache]

I have the green as well as the black Stillwater Heavyweight Shadow tartans

I like them both but find that I wear the green one a lot and the black one only occasionally and generally only for evening events (much like my Black Stewart Stillwater Heavyweight.)

here are a few pictures of the green









Detail showing the front apron







The waist on my Stillwater solid color wool kilts are the older style without the cutouts in the pleats so they are thicker / not form fitting like the newer ones Jerry is offering.

I have definately been satisfied with mine though.

Jerry and Stillwater always get top marks from me

Cheers

Jamie

[fluter]

Can you expand on what you actually did?

Many Thanks,
Nylo

The best answer is a copy of The Art of Kiltmaking. After the pleats are sewn in a traditional kilt, fabric is cut away from the inside above the fell. This reduces the overlapping layers, known fondly to SWK wearers as "pillow-butt."

With a Stillwater heavyweight, we'd first remove the lining. Skipping the first pleat(s) near the buttonhole, fabric is cut away in the fell area. This then necessitates steeking (to stabilize the pleats at the fell line), and adding a stabilizer (a strip of fabric to take the stress between the buckles. Add interfacing if desired, and replace the lining.

The book has drawings and photos, which helps a great deal. A nice green shadow awaits this treatment in my closet; I've built a trad kilt, essentially doing the same steps.

[MrShoe]

Can you expand on what you actually did?

Many Thanks,
Nylo

As Jamie mentioned and may not have been noticed is that SWK 2012 are newly constructed. The kilts Jerry now sells have the excess pleat material cut away.

However, I just noticed that the inventory of wool shadow tartan kilts are of the old style. They do have inventory of SWK Standard Saffron Shadow in the 2012 model. Might want to get that first and see what you think.

I myself have a Wool Saffron and love it for what it costs. I will be ordering a SWK Standard in Irish National 2012 now that my size has come back in stock.

[A Hay]

I got the Saffron Heavyweight from Stillwater about 4 years ago.
Here is a picture.



It really is quite heavy. The wool is softer than a worsted wool also, and I have noticed some pilling (small balls of wool on the surface) where it gets rubbed.

Overall a nice kilt for the price, but it doesn't get worn as much as the tartan kilts.
Here are two more pics.



It also looks good with a black jacket and black hose.

Tom