Pleated to the line

[Graham]

I saw a Pipe Band on St.paddys day that wore a tartan that was pleated to the line. It was the first time I'd noticed that, can't say i preferred it, but why is this done, anyone know?

[stonekilt]

Graham,

Not sure this is anywhere near a complete or accurate answer, but when the army dispensed with the great kilt and opted for the philabeg box-pleating was introduced to economise of the amount of material being used. When the pattern was matched, the style was to centre the same line on every pleat ("pleating to the line"). Pleating to the line is very military, thus some pipe bands adopt this style.

The modern style for civilian kilts, however, is for the pattern, or sett, of the tartan to be re-created where the pleats are formed (ie the repeat of each sett is hidden within each pleat "pleating to the sett").

Today the pleats of the kilt can be formed in two ways: a standard continuous pleat, the knife-pleat, or the box-pleat which takes the form of a Z joined by its base line to a mirror-image of itself. Box-pleats are, however, more complex to form and add more to the price of a kilt than is compensated for by any saving in material, in my opinion.

Best,
Daniel

[Chris]

I had always thought it was called pleating to the "stripe". My newest kilt is pleated this way and I think it looks very cool! Some tartans are more suitable for pleating to the stripe than others.

I heard that one of the other reasons for pleating this way is the way the tartan pattern "flashes" when the pleats swing!

[allenlynott]

I have a buddy that went to Scotland a few years back. While there he attended a Highland Games and purchased a Black Watch kilt box pleated kilt that was to the line/stripe (same differance). Not being the sharpest tack in the box, I failed to ask him. But, when I see him Wednesday, I'll ask.

Cheers,
Allen

[Blu (Ontario)]

My understanding is that pleating to the stripe is simpler when making a large number of kilts for a band or a military unit..depending on the tartan, of course. I quite like the look... esp. when in motion.

[Hamish]

Only one of my kilts is pleated to the stripe (yes, that is how most kiltmakers of my acquaintance refer to it). It is the Gunn, Weathered Colours, which has a prominent red stripe running through the sett.

When I ordered this kilt, I made the mistake of asking for it to be pleated to the red stripe, when I should have asked for it to be done slightly differently. Don't get me wrong, I very much like the way the kilt looks, but I cannot help thinking how much more attractive it would have been with the red stripe hidden inside each pleat. When walking, the swing o' the pleats would then have afforded the observer sneaky flashes of red - much more eye-catching![/img]

[Chris@southerncelt.com]

I recently performed my first pleat to stripe for one of our illustrious members of this forum no less. In my research, I found that this method was predominately used in the military because pleating to the stripe is much easier and faster than to the sett, therefore less work to outfit an entire regimen in kilts. After working on one, I see where it is true. There is much less of the beating ones mathematically challenged head on the cutting table while trying to figure out the pleat spacing. The stripes kind of figure it for you.

[Graham]

Thanks for that explanation Daniel, easy to follow!

[Seaforth Piper]

In the 'old days' (here I go again) the 'jocks' were issued one length of kilt cloth every April. It was 'single-width' (+/- 26" - about the maximum that a weaver can pass a shuttle through a loom) and over the years the length gradually increased from 4 to 7 yards.

The cloth would be pleated and the fell sewn but not cut. After the cloth started to fade noticably the stiched would be cut and the cloth turned 'round, then stiched up again. A 3rd, and later a 4th period of wear could be had by reversing the cloth bottom-to-top and then turned.

when the new cloth was issued, the old cloth might be cut-down into weksits or trews, or perhaps piper's shawl plaids.

The cloth remained HM property, and a soldier risked a 'charge' if he cut it. I think this is why Army kilts have such narrow pleats (no more than 3/4" at the seat is typical)

This explains why the old Army kilts had such an insanely high 'rise' - plus it was believed that if the kidneys caught a chill you risked cholera! (the US Army issued 'cholera belts' as late as the 1930's.)

As has been said, pleating to the line is wonderfully simpler than pleating to the sett, and kiltmakers have become literate only within living memory.

I THINK that box-pleats came about by accident - at least in my regiment (I'm the Kiltmaker to 1st Bn Seaforth Highlanders of Canada).

If you sew the fell of a kilt but do no other tailoring, over time the 'fell' portion assumes a 'box' shape. In the Black Watch this is called a 'belled' pleat and was still being worn the last time I made kilts for that regiment.

The Seaforths spent most of their history in India. Much of the 'spit and polish' that the Infantry (well, at least OUR Infantry) holds dear is due to the army of servants that used to be available in that country. My grandad (served 2nd Seaforth 1880-1920) and my dad (1937-57) told stories of waking up to find that ALL their kit had been done as they slept. My dad still marvels about waking up to find himself clean-shaven..

OK, back to my point.. I suspect that 'box pleats' were inadvertently invented by a Dhobi-wallah with 15 minutes to kill and who didn't want to waste a hot iron. hey presto, box pleats. The Jocks wouldn't mind a bit - it made them look smarter on parade and only cost a few annas.

I DO box-pleating, because the regiment expects it....and over the years I've learned a few tricks to make it go more quickly - as quickly as a knife-pleated kilt, with just a little more basting....but the fact remains that box pleats are difficult to make and care for and we could all do without them.

I have much more history on my website (www.westcoastkilts.com)

Slainte - and watch out for those cold metal chairs!

[kiltimabar]

I know what you mean, Hamish, about those hidden red stripes flashing out when the kilt swings out--I still remember a girl in high school had a kilt skirt that was made that way, and fascinating it was.

But just as a personal opinion, I notice that when a kilt is pleated to the stripe instead of the sett, the kilt looks completely different from the front to the back, as the pattern of the tartan is hidden in the pleats. My preference is that the tartan should be the same and recognizable from all sides.