Re the Saltire kilt, I came across one displayed in a kilt retailer’s in a small town in Angus. The short white lines which make up the Saltire are woven into the material – presumably the loom is computer-controlled to get the spacing accurate – and when correctly made up with 29 pleats the Saltire “appears”. Unfortunately I was a bit pushed for time and forgot to find out whether the kilt was made of a single 8 yard piece, so the weaving sequence would run ordinary sett for 1st front panel/special sett for pleating/ordinary sett for 2nd front panel, or 3 separate pieces of 2 ordinary setts for the front panels and the special sett for pleating joined together.