Dress Codes

[CMcG]

Being a member of Xmarks has made me much more aware of the oft confusing nuances of dress codes. Sure, there are names for these different levels of formality in attire: formal, casual, white tie, etc. Nonetheless, the different social circles and backgrounds of an international forum ensure that people don't always use the same names for a given dress code. There are also different interpretations of the same name!

In traditional Highland attire, things are perhaps a bit more clear cut, especially for those whose social calendar includes events that have clearly defined dress codes: e.g. the Royal Caledonian Ball, which has both general and specific requirements.

Modernity, however, has tended towards a loosening of dress codes and relaxing of formality. This can make it challenging to be appropriately dressed for an event, so when kilted, I tend to aim a bit higher on the formality scale. That way, I can ditch some kit if the event turns out to be more casual than I expected. I'd also rather be a bit overdressed and looking good, than underdressed and looking like I didn't care enough to try.

The 1 Kilt 10 Looks thread is a fantastic place to get a feel for the full range of formality. A while ago, I made a sort of answer thread (A Kilt Style Guide) that covers a more limited scale but with a few examples of each. Unfortunately, my thread didn't generate much discussion...

Here, then, is a question for the Rabble. All opinions and comments are welcome, regardless of whether they are historical, traditional, contemporary, or modern!

What different levels of formality do you dress at in your kilt? What do you and your social group call these dress codes (if anything)?

For some people, just wearing a collared shirt and a tie might be formal. For others, formal wear might mean a doublet and jabot. Casual might could be a Utilikilt, flip flops, and a tee shirt, or it could be a tattersal shirt, brown brogues, and a striped tie. Someone might actually wear the whole range of formality shown in the 1 Kilt 10 Looks thread, while another might only wear their kilt for black tie events.

There is no right answer because I'm asking people to share the experiences that are particular to their social milieu.

ith:

[Father Bill]

Really good Q!

I'm old-school: In Saxon terms Formal = White tie Semi-Formal = Black tie (dinner jacket) Otherwise, Business dress (lounge suit & tie) or Informal (anything less) Easier to define, I think than traditional highland civilian dress which has I think, more variations.

I know that "formal" for a lot of folks means what I call "Business Dress" When I go into a mens' wear shop and ask for a dress shirt, I mean something that could go with a tuxedo. They normally lead me to blue, button-down shirts, a more normal interpretation which nonetheless makes me shudder.

Generally, I find that overdressing slightly (not up a whole order of dress, but going to the top end of the order in question) is, as you have premised, easier to correct than the other way around. Further, in my new ordained life, a black suit with a black clerical shirt is generally accepted in every level. The kilt with clerical shirt and black barathea Argyle jacket has been pretty universally accepted too. (Nobody knows what to do with the clergy!)

"Informal" in a kilt would mean to me a soft "polo" style shirt - preferably with a breast pocket. From the waist down, it doesn't vary much except for the choice of hose since I would wear either a black toe-cap or a black brogue. In either case, some people ask whether that should mean patent or regular leather. I don't care so long as in the latter case it is shined to the point that nobody can tell the difference.

As an aside, the one time when the clerk in an upscale mens' shop took me straight to the often mis-labelled "Tuxedo shirts" (what an insulting term in my own lexicon!) he asked me if I knew my size. I told him I needed a 17-1/2, 33, fat. He cracked up and handed me exactly what I needed.

[Jack Daw]

The most formal I wear is the PC with black tie for the Heather & Thistle Society's Rabbie Burns Supper. The invitation says "black tie preferred," but I see some men show wearing from business suits to white lace jabots. When I take a date and she asks what she should wear, I usually tell them the LBD answer if they don't have an evening gown.

For Hihlad games, I wear a piper's shirt wih a tie and hiking boots or cheap brogues that I don't mind getting dusty.

For pubs, I will wear an argyll (mostly without tie), and polished brogues.

For Xmas parties (warranting a suit), I wear, an argyll, waistcoat, and tie.

For weddings, I wear a white or silver tie with a black argyll and waistcoat.

[madmacs]

The very first time i was told that a wedding i was going to was casual, I went without jacket and tie (unkilted since the missus was the officiant)... Never again... even though there were other people there without ties, it just didnt feel right...

I have also worn jacket and tie to weddings where half of the people were in shorts and t-shirts, and felt far less out if place...

[Laird_M]

For the ceilidh on Saturday, its 'come as you want', so I'll be wearing kilt, vest and blazer - that way I won't feel too out of place with anyone in full regalia, and can dress down if needs be. Like if the wife insists I make a fool of myself and dance - remember from our wedding reception I was absolutely roasting!

[O'Searcaigh]

I am currently living in a very "country" setting and rarely have occasion to wear a "formal" outfit, which when I do consists of a P.C., waistcoat, white dress shirt, black bow tie, my best 8yrd kilt, formal dress sporran, black hose, buckle brogues .... My "casual" "everyday" is pretty much any of my heavy cotton kilts, whatever hose I happen to like that day, casual button up shirt, crew neck sweater (if chilly), DIY sporran (if needed) slip-on "kiltie" or "penny loafer" shoes. If I want to play "country gentleman" (Sundays and other less casual days/occasions) it is one of my 8yrd wool kilts (though usually not my best one) a kilt jacket (dark grey tweed, light brown Harris or Green Argyle) waistcoat, tie, coordinated hose, slip on brogues with bows, semi-dress sporran. I guess I am rather "traditional" oriented even in Saxon dress by which I mean the only difference is whether I have on trousers or a kilt -- otherwise, the "overall look" I go for is pretty much the same.

[M. A. C. Newsome]

Interesting question. For me, given my geographical location, my station in life, and the actual social circles in which I travel, if I had to delinate my own personal modes of dress (limiting it just to Highland attire), I would divide it into three categories: Casual, Professional, and Formal.

Casual would consist of:Kilt
Casual shirt, either a polo/golf style or a short or long sleeved button shirt
Waist belt optional
Plain leather sporran
Self-colored hose, or hose with patterned top
Garter ties
Sgian dubh optional
Casual leather shoes
In cooler weather add a sweater.

I might wear this to a Highland games, for any informal day-time function, or even to the museum on a light day.

Professional would consist of:
Kilt
Self-colored or tattersal collared shirt
Neck tie
tweed Argyle jacket
waistcoat optional
waist belt optional
sporran either all leather, or leather with brass cantle, or fur with leather cantle
self-color hose, or with pattern top (possibly diced or argyle if I feel like taking it up a notch).
sgian dubh
garter ties
leather shoes

I would wear this at a Highland games, especially if I were there in any kind of official capacity. I would wear this at the museum, especially if I were meeting with a group or individual. I would wear this to give any sort of talk or presentation. This mode of dress also works well for any of the more formal daytime occasions I might attend; church functions, weddings, funerals, etc. It would also work well for informal evening events.

Formal would consist of:
Kilt
White dress shirt, spread or wing collar, pleated front or flat front, etc
Neck tie, bow tie, cravat or jabot, depending
Formal jacket (I typically wear my black Argyle, but others would work).
Waistcoat optional
Waist belt optional
Formal sporran, either fur with metal cantle, or hair sporran, etc.
Diced or Argyle hose
garter ties
sgian dubh
black dress shoes (I have buckle brogues)

I would wear this to a Burns Supper, or any other formal evening dinner, as well as any other evening function that would require formal dress.

In addition to the rough guidelines above, I would also tend to pull out the nicer accessories for the more formal events. For example, for a formal dinner I would be sure to wear my nice antique sgian dubh with sterling silver mountings. Now I may also wear that with my "professional attire" during the day if I so felt like it, but I would definitely wear it to an evening event. Same thing with the kilt pins and other little bits and bobs.

[davidg]

There is no right answer because I'm asking people to share the experiences that are particular to their social milieu.

ith:

I suppose that depends on the circles in which you are mixing. For some people there are very specific rules that even determine whether wearing a collar attached shirt is right or not and heaven forbid you should wear a wing collar with a soft front shirt or a fold down collar with a starched front shirt

But most of us do not move in quite those circles of formality and I'm not even sure if they exist any more. I suspect they do, but I certainly don't move in them

For the most part the circles I move in either do not know the dress codes or, if they do, are relaxed and accepting about any failure to follow the codes perfectly

It should be about pleasing yourself and for most of us it is. It is a fascinating subject though

[auld argonian]

I take Davidg's comment about "the circles in which you're mixing". Different groups that I'm involved with have different levels of formality...in one group a sport coat and slacks may be okay but in others a proper business suit is the norm. Usually the difference is seen at weddings and funerals...you go back to the old neighborhood it's one level of dress; go to other areas, it's another.

Still can't bring myself to wear a polo shirt with the kilt, though...just don't look right to me. I also find that the shiny buttons on the Argyll jacket seem slightly out of place in some circumstances...usually drinks or dinner after work where everybody else is wearing a business suit...I suppose that the Wallace jacket is the solution there.

I've been to many formal events where some of the crowd is wearing the latest tux styles and some of the older fellas are still wearing that perfectly good tuxedo that still fits but looks really dated...that's always interesting.

Also when going in and out of Academic/Museum circles and business circles I find that there are different standards and variations in what's considered appropriate for the occasion. When going to some events where both worlds "collide", I've noticed that the Acad/Mus types will wear proper black tie while the "suits" wear...suits. Guess they figure that since they're usually being tapped for contributions at these things, they can dress any way they bloody well please and nobody's gonna criticize...or they'll cut off the grant money!

This is an interesting cultural/anthropological discussion...

Best

AA

[Tobus]

I'm glad you posted this, as it is the same thing I have been contemplating lately. It is related to my "clothes horse" thread in many ways. Wearing the kilt and attempting to wear it well, even if not always doing it "by the book", has changed the way I look at what I wear. And being a member here has certainly opened my eyes to a whole new world of style and manner-of-dress, to which I hadn't been exposed before.

I will admit that it has been an interesting and fun change of paradigm for me, and I find myself trending more towards a more conservative (perhaps even "proper") way of dressing. My tastes have definitely changed in the last couple of years, and I find myself wanting to dress better than the average person around me... which isn't too difficult, considering the current pathetic American trend toward the casual/sloppy. I was right there with them until my eyes were opened, thanks to many here on this forum.

To directly address the question, I think most people in my area don't really understand dress codes. They don't give it much thought, since they rarely have need to. They just wear what they wear, no matter where they go. They either wear "regular" clothes or they "dress up". If the word "formal" is invoked, that means a tuxedo. They don't understand anything more complicated than that. They have simply never been exposed to it, except for high school prom, or perhaps a wedding. Many do not know how to tie a necktie, and they actually take pride in not wearing a tie. It is a cultural rejection of anything seen as "proper" or "stuffy" or who-knows-what.

I have been on a mission for quite some time now to "up the ante" in the way I dress (whether kilted or trousered). Here at my office, where other people wear khakis and cowboy boots as their normal office wear, I wear dress slacks, polished shoes, and a tie. If the weather isn't blazing hot, I'll wear a sport jacket. To me, this is simply "office attire" or "business casual". But I've been accused by most people here in my office of trying to be too dressy. Some of them ask me if I'm going to a wedding, which should give you a pretty good idea what they know of proper dress.

For church, weddings, funerals, and other events where I feel the sartorial bar should be raised, I will always try to wear a jacket and tie, whether kilted or trousered. Usually a suit is called for, or the Highland equivalent, if appropriate. But I don't use the term "formal" for this. Just "dressy". I tend to refer to it as "church-level dress".

Casual to me is anything without a necktie or jacket, or anything involving denim . But still (generally) with a collared shirt. Ultra-casual would include anything on the t-shirt or flip-flop level.