Waistcoat fit

[M. A. C. Newsome]

Most of the men in the historical portraits and photographs you see are wearing clothing that was made for them - i.e. to their measurements and body shape.

The phenomenon of going to a store and buying clothing made in a "standard size" off the rack (and hoping it will fit you right!) is a relatively recent innovation, historically speaking.

The truth is that very few people come in a "standard size." Everyone is a little bit different. And even if we think that a standard size fits "well enough" part of that may simply be how we have been conditioned by years and years of wearing standard sizes. This is how we "think" clothes are meant to fit.

I recently had a shirt tailor made to my measurements. It fits rather snugly compared to the many shirts in my closet that were purchased off the rack. But it fits well. I can move around easily in it. So in no way would I say it was "too tight." But rather, all my other shirts are too loose in one area or the other. To get the right neck size and sleeve length that I require, my shirts are typically too large in the bicep and around the waist. I've just gotten used to it, because that's how standard size shirts fit on me. Until I had a shirt actually made-to-measure, I didn't know the different.

I suspect something similar may be what you are noticing in the waistcoats.

That, and I notice that even today American men tend to wear their shirts and jackets much in a much looser fit than their British and European counterparts. This is why many American men are advised to "order a size up" when they order kilt jackets made in the UK. It's not that the UK sizing is measured any differently, it is simply that most Americans expect a looser fit in their jackets than British men do. We are not used to that tailored look.

[Ryan Ross]

I recently had a shirt tailor made to my measurements. It fits rather snugly compared to the many shirts in my closet that were purchased off the rack. But it fits well. I can move around easily in it. So in no way would I say it was "too tight." But rather, all my other shirts are too loose in one area or the other. To get the right neck size and sleeve length that I require, my shirts are typically too large in the bicep and around the waist. I've just gotten used to it, because that's how standard size shirts fit on me. Until I had a shirt actually made-to-measure, I didn't know the different.

Boy, do I know what you're talking about, come to the standard sizes not fitting. I've been thinking recently on having a shirt made for me, just to see what it was like... currently my chest measurement is 13 inches larger than my waist, so you can imagine how much extra shirt fabric I usually have hanging around. Literally.

[longhuntr74]

I found when I first started wearing three piece suits, the vest was adjustable. It seemed no matter what I did, the vest would not fit correctly. My solution was to take them to a tailor. Two hours later, I had a vest that was fitted to me, and the annoying adjusting strap was relegated to the trash. I eventually went to custom suits, eliminating the problem altogether.

Like all the other responses so far, I agree that "off the rack" clothing is cut too large...and most men buy to large a size on top of that. The best advice I've seen recently on buying a jacket...that I have since adopted as my rule...is to find the jacket where the shoulders fit comfortably/roomy...and then buy one size smaller. It results in a jacket that fits my waist and body better, though it might start out a bit snug in the shoulders. It just takes some getting used to a feeling of a tighter fit, as Matt has mentioned about his recent purchase of a made to measure shirt.

Boy, do I know what you're talking about, come to the standard sizes not fitting. I've been thinking recently on having a shirt made for me, just to see what it was like... currently my chest measurement is 13 inches larger than my waist, so you can imagine how much extra shirt fabric I usually have hanging around. Literally.

Ryan...I'm right there with you! Even "Tailored" or "Athletic" fit shirts are too big in the waist. 44" chest and 32" waist doesn't come "off the rack". I just ordered three shirts from Charles Tyrwhitt today in their "Slim" fit option. The chest measurement they quote seems as if it will be about perfect...the waist measurement could be about 2" smaller. If I were to go to their "tailored" fit, the waist would be about perfect...but the the chest also gets 2" smaller...which would be a non-starter...buttons pulling every time you moved. Just this weekend I altered three of my "off the rack" button down shirts by putting darts in the back and taking about 5-6" out of the waist of each, depending on starting measurements.

Oh...and back on the topic...I find that I have to buy a size smaller vest (medium vs. large) when buying them...and even then, they are frequently an inch or two too long. I always feel like they need to be taken in at the shoulders.

[Ryan Ross]

Ryan...I'm right there with you! Even "Tailored" or "Athletic" fit shirts are too big in the waist. 44" chest and 32" waist doesn't come "off the rack". I just ordered three shirts from Charles Tyrwhitt today in their "Slim" fit option. The chest measurement they quote seems as if it will be about perfect...the waist measurement could be about 2" smaller. If I were to go to their "tailored" fit, the waist would be about perfect...but the the chest also gets 2" smaller...which would be a non-starter...buttons pulling every time you moved. Just this weekend I altered three of my "off the rack" button down shirts by putting darts in the back and taking about 5-6" out of the waist of each, depending on starting measurements.

Oh...and back on the topic...I find that I have to buy a size smaller vest (medium vs. large) when buying them...and even then, they are frequently an inch or two too long. I always feel like they need to be taken in at the shoulders.

Heh- Yep. Misery loves company.

But indeed, all that sounds quite familiar, save that I don't yet have the skills with needle and thread to start messing with my shirts.

And I can sometimes have the same trouble as you with vests too, actually. Too long.

EDIT: I'm 46" and 33", so we really are looking at almost an identical problem... I'm wondering if the vest issue is height or build... or a little of both. I'm 6'. Out of curiosity, how tall are you?