Stillwater shadow tartan

[CMcG]

I have a green Stillwater green shadow tartan and I quite like it. The stock size is a bit too long for me, so I had it hemmed by an inch and a half. The wool is a bit softer than worsted and is quite comfortable. The colour is quite rich and the shadow tartan pattern only shows up in direct sunlight. It doesn't get quite as much wear as my true tartan kilts but it's great for Irish events.

Some of these pics have been posted on the forum before but I'll post them again just for good measure.




The kilt was a xmas present and this was the first time I wore it. December in Vancouver with no snow!

[Mike S]

However, the sewn pleats in the back are not cut out like you would see from Matt, Rocky, or most any other kilt maker. Thus, it kind of feels like you are wearing a pillow in the back of the kilt.

I modify mine by cutting out and properly reconstructing the kidney area of the pleats in the proper manner. When done (with minimal difficulty and effort), the kilt drapes and fits as it should on a bespoke kilt.

The heavyweight wool offerings are a great value for money. Not exactly equal to my tanks, but then it didn't cost $600+ either!

[Nylo]

Can you expand on what you actually did?

Many Thanks,
Nylo

I modify mine by cutting out and properly reconstructing the kidney area of the pleats in the proper manner. When done (with minimal difficulty and effort), the kilt drapes and fits as it should on a bespoke kilt.!

[Panache]

I have the green as well as the black Stillwater Heavyweight Shadow tartans

I like them both but find that I wear the green one a lot and the black one only occasionally and generally only for evening events (much like my Black Stewart Stillwater Heavyweight.)

here are a few pictures of the green









Detail showing the front apron







The waist on my Stillwater solid color wool kilts are the older style without the cutouts in the pleats so they are thicker / not form fitting like the newer ones Jerry is offering.

I have definately been satisfied with mine though.

Jerry and Stillwater always get top marks from me

Cheers

Jamie

[ForresterModern]

Just for clarification, Black Isle tartan and Black Shadow tartan are not the same. Black Isle actually has a tartan pattern made up of black and extremely dark charcoal threads that has a standard smooth tartan material surface, while shadow tartan seems to be made up of all black threads of different weights or at least different textures, so the color is all black but the tartan pattern is made up of differences in the surface texture and luster of the fabric. Black Isle only comes in one colorway, but the shadow tartans come in at least a handful of colors.

Sorry for the thread jack.

[fluter]

Can you expand on what you actually did?

Many Thanks,
Nylo

The best answer is a copy of The Art of Kiltmaking. After the pleats are sewn in a traditional kilt, fabric is cut away from the inside above the fell. This reduces the overlapping layers, known fondly to SWK wearers as "pillow-butt."

With a Stillwater heavyweight, we'd first remove the lining. Skipping the first pleat(s) near the buttonhole, fabric is cut away in the fell area. This then necessitates steeking (to stabilize the pleats at the fell line), and adding a stabilizer (a strip of fabric to take the stress between the buckles. Add interfacing if desired, and replace the lining.

The book has drawings and photos, which helps a great deal. A nice green shadow awaits this treatment in my closet; I've built a trad kilt, essentially doing the same steps.

[Emmet]

Just for clarification, Black Isle tartan and Black Shadow tartan are not the same. Black Isle actually has a tartan pattern made up of black and extremely dark charcoal threads that has a standard smooth tartan material surface, while shadow tartan seems to be made up of all black threads of different weights or at least different textures, so the color is all black but the tartan pattern is made up of differences in the surface texture and luster of the fabric. Black Isle only comes in one colorway, but the shadow tartans come in at least a handful of colors.

Sorry for the thread jack.

The black shadow tartan is made using just black thread all the same weight but some of it is wound clockwise and some of it anti-clockwise. fyi

[ForresterModern]

The black shadow tartan is made using just black thread all the same weight but some of it is wound clockwise and some of it anti-clockwise. fyi

Thank you Emmett for the clarification of my clarification. Next time I see a shadow tartan I will check out the twist on the threads. I just knew that for whatever reason having to do with the thread that despite being the same color the texture and luster were distinctly different between the two "threads" making up the various stripes in the shadow tartans. See I am educable, and now ever so slightly more educated that just moments ago. Thanks.

[MrShoe]

Can you expand on what you actually did?

Many Thanks,
Nylo

As Jamie mentioned and may not have been noticed is that SWK 2012 are newly constructed. The kilts Jerry now sells have the excess pleat material cut away.

However, I just noticed that the inventory of wool shadow tartan kilts are of the old style. They do have inventory of SWK Standard Saffron Shadow in the 2012 model. Might want to get that first and see what you think.

I myself have a Wool Saffron and love it for what it costs. I will be ordering a SWK Standard in Irish National 2012 now that my size has come back in stock.

[A Hay]

I got the Saffron Heavyweight from Stillwater about 4 years ago.
Here is a picture.



It really is quite heavy. The wool is softer than a worsted wool also, and I have noticed some pilling (small balls of wool on the surface) where it gets rubbed.

Overall a nice kilt for the price, but it doesn't get worn as much as the tartan kilts.
Here are two more pics.



It also looks good with a black jacket and black hose.

Tom