Darts in tartan vests

[sydnie7]

As discussed in another thread (LINK), putting a dart in tartan fabric skews the alignment of the woven stripes. Here's a ladies vest that shows it in the extreme (ladies generally need more front shaping than men )



But there are men's vest patterns without darts. Here are two vest front pattern pieces, one with dart and one without.

WITH:


WITHOUT:


It's subtle, but the one without darts has more shaping along the side seam. Also not shown is the back pattern piece. With darts, the back is one piece (no seam up the center back). Without darts, the vest has a center back seam that contributes to the shaping.

Your body type determines how much, if any, shaping your vest requires. If you are only ever going to wear it under a jacket, the addition of a rear belt can help cinch it in without putting permanent darts in the front to mess up the tartan alignment.

Hope this helps shed some light on the discussion of tartan vests!

[piperdbh]

It does indeed, Sydnie. It looks like McCall's 4321 is going to have to go on my list of patterns to buy. The one I currently use has the darts in the front, which is fine for solids or corduroy, but I'm going to use a different one when I make a tartan vest.
Thanks for the post.

[sydnie7]

You're welcome! FYI I was able to purchase 4321 online and print it out on 8.5 x 11 paper which is then taped together in a large grid. Easier than trying to find the pattern/size you need at woefully understocked chain fabric stores, at least in my experience.

P.S. The pattern is for a collared vest, which I've decided to make, although easy enough to alter the pattern for no collar (it's fully lined). And fake welts, but I'm going to create real pockets underneath. I'll keep you posted :o)

[madmacs]

And without darts...



Vogue 8048 IIRC

[Dixiecat]

I should point out that the mismatching only occurs when the pattern is cut on the bias. The darts will line up quite nicely when cut on the straight grain.

My preference is always towards princess seams especially for the larger chested. Otherwise I'd go with side seam, armhole shaping or back darts.

[piperdbh]

I'm afraid I don't qualify for the princess seams, Dixiecat. I've not eaten enough fruitcake, I suppose.

Sydnie, where do you find the print-on-demand patterns? That sounds like exactly what I need.

[sydnie7]

PrintSew home page has links to the pattern companies they work with. Look for patterns that have a printer icon beside them.

[piperdbh]

When I receive authorization from the Mrs. to spend a few $ online, I'm procuring that pattern. Thanks, Sydnie.

[Dixiecat]

I'm afraid I don't qualify for the princess seams, Dixiecat. I've not eaten enough fruitcake, I suppose.

Sydnie, where do you find the print-on-demand patterns? That sounds like exactly what I need.

Ha....ha....