Leather Sporran Construction - Help!

**Rileydad24** · 14th February 12, 12:08 PM

Started working on a leather sporran and have found some patterns and very little construction info online. Hoping someone might be able to help. Got the tab with the rings sewn and the piece it passes through on the back finished. Have figured out that the sides (gusset) is sewn right sides together then folded back - so no of the stitching shows on the front. The end result looks like a 'mounded' rim on the front.
So here's where I'm stuck. How does the side get sewn to the back piece? Does the stitching show? How wide should the sides be?
The front, back and flap are pretty sturdy leather while the sides are of a piece that is very pliable and can be folded back on itself.
Should it be lined? If so, with what?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks guys!

**sydnie7** · 14th February 12, 12:59 PM

I'm working on a similar, first-time project and found it very helpful to look at the photos of sporrans on vendor websites. Scotweb in particular has photos from several angles that helped me suss out some details (that I couldn't figure out from the other sporrans I have on hand, a luxury you may not enjoy).

At the rear, generally the gusset is sewn wrong side of gusset to front side of back panel. This leaves two raw edges revealed. For plain leather, it seems easiest to burnish these edges and leave them showing. I am working with fur, including fur gusset, so I plan to sew a thin strip of leather over those raw edges, all the way around the outside of back panel.

As for lining, the plain leather sporrans I have/have seen are generally not lined.

Pictures are worth 1K words, I strongly encourage you to surf the commercial sites as well as some of the other DIY sporran threads here on XMarks.

**Brian Boru** · 14th February 12, 02:10 PM

Hi,
OK from what I read you are making a day sporran. What you want to do is stitch the side to the back and yes, your stitches will show. You can go about this in a couple of different methods. You can use rubber cement. Start by putting a thin coat on the edges of both pieces (about 1/4 inch) and then cement both edges together, the back or flesh side of the gusset to the flesh side of the back. You may get a wrinkle or two on the edge, you can smooth it out with the edge of a credit card or some other item. After the cement sets up you can punch your stitching holes. if you get some cement on the exposed edge take a pencil eraser and rub lightly over the dried cement, that should remove it.

Second method is using binder or bull clips, match up the edges and place the binder clips around the edges, and then punch your stitching holes and as you stitch around the edge, move or remove the clips as you go.

I hope this helps you out, I've been doing leather work for 35+ years and I look for the easiest way of doing my stitch work. All of the sporrans I make for myself I mark out all my stitching holes when I make my pattern so that all I have to do is stitch and everything comes together.
Good luck on your sporran.

Cheers,

Brian

**Rileydad24** · 14th February 12, 02:51 PM

Thanks guys, this helps a lot. Looked at the suggested websit and grateful for the different views of sporrans.
Yes, it's a day sporran.
I'll try the rubber cement for the one in progress but had enough leather to make a second larger one. For that one I'll try the suggestion of punching holes first! (...so very logical...)
Will post images when complete.

One quick additional question. Some of the images online show the back seam has a binding that runs all the way around the flap and back. Assuming the beginning and ending point is at the bottom of the back - correct? Of what material is this binding made of? Is it a thin leather also? Does it's application use the same stitching holes as the ones used for stitching the gusset to the back? My opinion is that this binding gives a much cleaner and finished look.
Thanks again!

**sydnie7** · 14th February 12, 02:54 PM

Based on the one commercial sporran we own that has "binding" around the back panel -- it starts and ends at top dead center. This area is covered by the strap that snaps the sporran closed, so the raw edges of the overlap are visible only when the sporran is unsnapped and opened.

**turpin** · 14th February 12, 03:12 PM

If you are using very flexible leather you can sew the panels to the gusset inside out and then invert it. If it's pretty stiff such that inversion wouldn't work do as Brian Boru suggested. If you use the binder clips make a mark at the bottom center of both pieces so that you have a reference point for rejoining them if you take them apart. Otherwise you might offset by a hole or two and wind up with a cockeyed sporran. Take your time, think it through, then think again. All the other advice you've seen here is good stuff.

If you end up with a raw edge where the back is joined to the gusset you can is a thin strip of leather as an edging piece. It should be wide enough to sew through the existing holes with about 1/8-1/16 inch extra on both sides (between the holes and the edge. Just fold it in half lengthwise and punch holes along the edge, then sew on using existing holes.

**Rileydad24** · 18th February 12, 05:15 PM

Okay - I've got the back sewn onto the front. Looks good. Now, I've made three round braids for the tassels and have another question. If three tassels are used, I understand the one in the middle will be longer than the other two, but confused about the placement of the middle tassel. If the flap will be secured with a snap, where does the tassel go? Below the male part of the snap? Off to one side? I'm lost...

**artificer** · 18th February 12, 05:37 PM

Originally Posted by Rileydad24

Okay - I've got the back sewn onto the front. Looks good. Now, I've made three round braids for the tassels and have another question. If three tassels are used, I understand the one in the middle will be longer than the other two, but confused about the placement of the middle tassel. If the flap will be secured with a snap, where does the tassel go? Below the male part of the snap? Off to one side? I'm lost...

I've seen them set below the snap (which I prefer) or above the snap which means that it's actually in the way of the snap and must be moved to one side when closing it.

Here's one I recently finished which should show you the mounting.

With the flap closed (for the overall look)

And open, showing the actual position of the tassels.

Just be sure you have room below the snap so that the mounting point of the tassel isn't visible when the flap is closed.

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