New sword

**kilted hillbilly** · 28th March 12, 08:00 PM

Hope this is the right place for this. I just purchased a Cold Steel basket hilt broad sword. I think it looks great and from reveiws I have read the steel is of high quality. Anyone else have one? Thoughts? I dont know if I like the tassle, was thinking about taking it off.Thanks.

**MacRob** · 28th March 12, 08:19 PM

Cold Steel does make a high quality blade. The basket is based on the 1828 pattern broadsword which is still used in the Royal Highland Regiment today. I think you will be very happy with it. I would caution you that if the sheath gets too hot, for example it sits out in the son on a hot day, the glue holding the metal fittings may let go. That is a problem with Indian-made sheaths. They apparently use some sort of hide glue which cannot stand up to much heat. If that does happen: 1. don't lose the fittings because they are not easily replaced; 2. reattach them with a good quality 30 minute epoxy and that should keep them attached going forward.

I have considerable experience with Cold Steel products which range from good to excellent. The one problem with their swords is that they are all "over built", which is to say a bit too heavy.

Enjoy...

**Dale Seago** · 28th March 12, 09:20 PM

Originally Posted by MacRob

The one problem with their swords is that they are all "over built", which is to say a bit too heavy.

I agree where the baskethilt is concerned, at least, as historically around 2 & 1/2 pounds was typical. Regarding the fringe, antiques I've seen which still have fringe all seem to have it on the inside of the basket, as protection for the hand/wrist from chafing. Also, it was common to have a leather or rawhide partial (1/3 to 1/2) liner on the forward interior of the basket to help prevent enough of the pointy part of a sword from getting through any openwork on the basket to mess with your grip.

I did put the fringe on the inside of the basket on mine, and also made a molded baked-leather partial liner for it. One thing I couldn't correct is that the CS sword has a knife-type edge bevel, rather than the lenticular (lens-shaped) grind of a real sword; though I do know someone here in San Francisco now who could fix that -- by hand, with Japanese water stones, which is the kind of work it would take to get it right.

**Nighthawk** · 28th March 12, 09:26 PM

Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't they also use a pencil tang?

**Dale Seago** · 28th March 12, 10:05 PM

Originally Posted by Nighthawk

Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't they also use a pencil tang?

Not a term I'm familiar with. Haven't disassembled mine for a long time, but IIRC the tang is flat except for the pommel end, which is round and threaded.

**MacRob** · 29th March 12, 04:17 AM

Originally Posted by Nighthawk

Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't they also use a pencil tang?

I think you are referring to a "rat tail tang", which is somewhat thin. I have never dismantled a CS basket hilt to look at the tang so cannot say for sure. However, I have looked at the Hanwei version and some others and, while the tangs on those swords were narrow, they appear sturdy enough for actual use, although I don't recommend using them for sword play. Most of these swords are not going stand up to such use, tang construcion notwithstanding. Hanwei does make a "practical" line which has blunt tips and rounded edges along with a peened tang, for use in mock combat. Reviews on their ability to handle it are mixed. Armour Class in Glasgow probably makes one of the better swords for that sort of thing. I have one of their sharpened versions and it is head and shoulders above my Hanwei and CS swords. However, it is also costs quite a bit more.

**kilted hillbilly** · 29th March 12, 05:26 AM

Thank you all for the replies. I am new to swords, and any info is helpful, so dont hesitate to fill my head with things you may consider common knowledge. Way back in the '80s when I was a young Army infantryman a Marine corps friend gave me a cold steel tanto that he had purchased in the Phillipines(he had bought 2,kept one for himself). That was one hellova blade! You really can punch thru car doors with no damage to the point. Anyway, I'm hungry for knowledge about the Scottish swords, so what is recomended reading? Thanks.

**Dale Seago** · 29th March 12, 06:06 AM

Well, if you want to get some pointers (hee!) on using them you might try this book:

http://www.amazon.com/Highland-Sword.../dp/1891448153

Old Donald McBane's memoir/training manual, which comprises about half the book, is in my opinion more than worth the cost of the book itself.

And yes, that's me on the cover in a feileadh mor/belted plaid, being mugged for my nice shoes by one of my own blackguard black belts:

**Droid** · 29th March 12, 06:39 AM

I have Cold Steel's dirk. I've only had it for about a month and the steel seems to be rusting already. The blade came very heavily oiled, I wiped most of the excess oil off and sheathed it. After 2 week or so I noticed brown splotches spread randomly across the blade. I haven't tried cleaning it or polishing it yet.

Other than that, I am happy with the look and feel. One question on dirks... are they supposed to be one sided or two? The Cold Steel dirk is only sharpened on one side.

**Dale Seago** · 29th March 12, 08:06 AM

Historically dirks were generally -- but not always -- single edged, and they generally -- but not always -- had a partial "false" or back edge. The latter seems to have generally been more to facilitate penetration than for cutting, as the dirk was primarily a thrusting/stabbing weapon.

I hate those long exaggerated furniture-leg handles. They're an affectation which arose when dirks became mainly big pieces of masculine bling, with both makers and wearers having no idea how to hold or use them.