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  1. #41
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    The Right Way, The Wrong Way, and The Army Way

    While military regulations may specify a black bow tie with mess dress when attending a white tie event, civilians should follow the conventions of wearing a white tie (or, depending upon the style of the jacket, a lace jabot) when in Highland attire. The idea that black tie could be worn in lieu of white tie dates from the end of WWII when His Majesty, King George VI, for a brief time relaxed the white tie requirement at dinners when members of the royal family were present. This was done so that those not possessing formal evening attire due to war-time and post-war shortages could still attend.
    Last edited by MacMillan of Rathdown; 16th May 12 at 08:22 PM.

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by MacMillan of Rathdown View Post
    Yup, there is a glass ceiling. White tie, whether kilted or not, has a pretty rigid dress code; probably the most concise laid down for Highland attire is that first published by C.R.MacKinnon of Dunakin in 1960, wherein he states:

    "Silver-mounted fur, sealskin, or hair sporran."

    If, like the badger sporran worn by an officer in the Argyll & Sutherland Highlanders, a full mask sporran has a silver cantle, then it would be appropriate to wear with Formal Highland attire. If, on the other hand, a full-mask sporran lacks a silver cantle then it really isn't proper for white tie.

    Other than "white tie" an ordinary full mask sporran is absolutely correct at any time of day.

    I think that "silver" is just one of those conventions that we have to live with, as regards semi-formal attire. When you get right down to it, any formal attire, in all its permutations, is supposed to be the finest clothing one possesses, which means silver buttons and accessories, instead of brass. Now, if one happens to wear grandfather's brass kilt pin, no one will really notice-- or care. The same with an antique brass cantle on a sporran. Brass buttons, on the other hand, are a notch down on the scale. Why? Because the livery buttons worn by servants are brass. Call it snobbery if you will, but a gentleman doesn't want to arrive at dinner looking like he's pinched his footman's jacket!

    Gold is a different matter. Provided it's "old" (and one is a duke) gold buttons and accessories can look quite smart. On the other hand, if one is not a duke (and especially if the buttons and accessories are new) then one runs the risk of looking vulgar. In my entire life I've only seen one Scottish aristocrat wearing gold buttons, etc., with formal Highland attire. At nearly 80 he looked exactly like what he was-- one of the great Highland magnates whose people had held the land since time immemorial. Anyone else would have looked like a jumped-up brewer.

    It's not a uniform, but there is a uniform dress code for evening wear, hence the different levels of dress. That said, a gentleman with a sense of style can tweek things a bit to suit his individual personality.

    As with everything else in life, it's all about taste, and the desire to avoid looking like Rodney Dangerfield in "Caddy Shack".
    ***

    Well said, Scott. And this is precisely the reason why Kate Macpherson gives you the option of adding a plain silver or brass cantle to her full-mask sporrans, which actually does make for a rather smart look (see the earlier photos I posted in this thread for reference).

    Cheers,
    Last edited by creagdhubh; 17th May 12 at 06:19 AM.

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by MacMillan of Rathdown View Post
    While military regulations may specify a black bow tie with mess dress when attending a white tie event, civilians should follow the conventions of wearing a white tie (or, depending upon the style of the jacket, a lace jabot) when in Highland attire. The idea that black tie could be worn in lieu of white tie dates from the end of WWII when His Majesty, King George VI, for a brief time relaxed the white tie requirement at dinners when members of the royal family were present. This was done so that those not possessing formal evening attire due to war-time and post-war shortages could still attend.
    Except that the dress code for the Royal Caledonian Ball explicitly says black bow tie for highland attire (or lace jabot) and it is clearly, based on the non-highland dress code, a white tie event.

    Quote Originally Posted by www.royalcaledonianball.com
    Dress

    Part of the particular appeal of the Ball is that everyone attending is wearing traditional formal evening dress. The dress requirements are stated below in summary and in detail.

    Please note that those not correctly dressed will be refused entry.

    If you are unsure about any aspect of the dress code, please contact the Ball Secretary.

    In summary

    Ladies
    Full length dress

    Gentleman
    Highland evening dress, or
    Evening tails with white tie, or
    Mess kit
    No dinner jackets

    In detail

    Ladies - essential
    Floor length evening dress, or
    Mess dress (for those entitled to wear it) with full length skirt

    Ladies – optional (but encouraged)
    Tiaras
    Clan tartan sashes
    Orders and Decorations

    Gentlemen - essential
    Highland evening dress comprising kilt and sporran, evening jacket of black broadcloth or coloured velvet, white evening shirt and black bow tie or lace jabot, or
    Evening dress, comprising black evening tail coat, white shirt with wing collar, white bow tie and white waistcoat, or
    Mess dress, worn according to regulations, with, preferably, where permitted, any more formal variation such as stiff shirt, wing collar and black bow tie

    Gentlemen – optional
    Orders and Decorations

    For the set reels gentleman taking part must wear highland evening dress or mess kit, tail coats only if part of mess dress, and ladies must wear clan sashes.
    Kenneth Mansfield
    NON OBLIVISCAR
    My tartan quilt: Austin, Campbell, Hamilton, MacBean, MacFarlane, MacLean, MacRae, Robertson, Sinclair (and counting)

  4. #44
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    Actually, reading the invitation, this is a black tie event with white tie optional. The required mode of dress is always the first given.

    When organizing an event, the host of that event may specify the requested or required mode of dress. The organizers of the Royal Caledonian Ball could as easily have requested that those attending come in coarse tweed jackets-- it's their ball, and they set the standards.

    I have attended several white tie events at the Assembly Rooms in Edinburgh and, aside from those officers in mess dress, all the gentlemen present wore either white tie or lace jabot. It's really down to what the organizers of an event want to do, which may or may not conform to customary standards of dress.

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by MacMillan of Rathdown View Post
    Actually, reading the invitation, this is a black tie event with white tie optional. The required mode of dress is always the first given.
    No. It is Highland Evening Dress with Evening Dress optional. And they define Highland Evening Dress as wearing black tie or lace jabot. The fact that it says "No dinner jackets" means that it is not a "black tie" event. There are of course photos of men in Highland attire wearing white tie at previous balls, so clearly that is acceptable (given that they say they will turn away people who are not properly dressed).
    Kenneth Mansfield
    NON OBLIVISCAR
    My tartan quilt: Austin, Campbell, Hamilton, MacBean, MacFarlane, MacLean, MacRae, Robertson, Sinclair (and counting)

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlackerDrummer View Post
    No. It is Highland Evening Dress with Evening Dress optional. And they define Highland Evening Dress as wearing black tie or lace jabot. The fact that it says "No dinner jackets" means that it is not a "black tie" event. There are of course photos of men in Highland attire wearing white tie at previous balls, so clearly that is acceptable (given that they say they will turn away people who are not properly dressed).
    So, if a chap is invited to attend the Royal Caledonian Ball in London, he could realistically wear either a white or black bow tie, or a lace jabot with his Highland dress, correct? I'm trying to arrive at a concrete conclusion here, please forgive me.

    Cheers,
    Last edited by creagdhubh; 17th May 12 at 10:22 AM. Reason: Punctuation.

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by creagdhubh View Post
    So, if a chap is invited to attend the Royal Caledonian Ball in London, he could realistically wear either a white or black bow tie, or a lace jabot with his Highland dress, correct?
    The short answer is, yes. That said, from the photos in the magazines the majority of men wearing bow ties appear to be wearing a black one (as instructed in the dress code). My judgement tells me that is the better choice.
    Last edited by SlackerDrummer; 17th May 12 at 10:40 AM. Reason: grammar
    Kenneth Mansfield
    NON OBLIVISCAR
    My tartan quilt: Austin, Campbell, Hamilton, MacBean, MacFarlane, MacLean, MacRae, Robertson, Sinclair (and counting)

  8. #48
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    I think there's nothing looks sloppier than a jabot drizzled in cock o' leekie soup. I am rather pleased that in my world I don't need to worry about all these technicalities.

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by creagdhubh View Post
    So, if a chap is invited to attend the Royal Caledonian Ball in London, he could realistically wear either a white or black bow tie, or a lace jabot with his Highland dress, correct? I'm trying to arrive at a concrete conclusion here, please forgive me.

    Cheers,
    Correct. I've been there and know the dress. Most in Highland dress are wearing black bow ties. All others excluding officers in mess dress are wearing white tie, with tail coats.

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by JSFMACLJR View Post
    Correct. I've been there and know the dress. Most in Highland dress are wearing black bow ties. All others excluding officers in mess dress are wearing white tie, with tail coats.
    Thanks Sandy.

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