Need Advice Choosing

[WelshWarden]

I am currently the owner of 7 kilts (1 Sportkilt "Commando", 1 Amerikilt, 1 EKC (Gold Brothers), 2 Atlanta kilt (regular and utility), and 2 USAKilt (Casual and Semi-Traditional). Of the 7 the Atlanta kilt in Stewart (Black) and the USAKilt Semi-trad in American Heritage are my absolute favorites. And the USAKilt is absolutely the best in terms of construction quality. So I've got the casual kilts covered . I'm looking to take the plunge and get a true handmade 16oz. wool one. My questions are these:
1. Based on the built quality of my USAKilts, I was thinking of going with them, as they offer a hand sewn kilt in the tartan I want (Evans of Wales, but only in 14oz.). This is the only place I've found that tartan. My great grandfather was an Evans from Pontypridd, Wales, but my great grandmother was a Jones from Aberdeen. I wouldn't be averse to a universal Scottish tartan, either. For anyone who owns both, how do they compare to a traditional kilt handmade in Scotland? Is the fit and quality equal? I will probably only buy one formal kilt, as the PV ones and acrylic/wool ones are wonderful in the lovely climate of Louisiana.
2. Are there other custom makers you would recommend? If so, who and why? Since this a big purchase for me, I want the absolute best I can affod.

Thank you all for the great advice and information!

[M. A. C. Newsome]

As you said the Evans of Wales tartan is only available in a medium weight cloth, and you have stated you want a heavy weight. Plus (unless something changed with the mill) the cloth is also not made with a kilting selvage and so the kilt will need to be hemmed.

If having a heavy weight 16 oz kilt is important to you, why not consider the Aberdeen tartan? It would honor your Scottish grandmother from that city. And it is a very old and traditional tartan. And it is stocked by Lochcarron in their 16 oz range.

Just a suggestion.

[Tobus]

Rocky will make you a good quality kilt, no doubt about that.

As for other custom makers I would recommend, well, I suppose it depends on what your budget is. There are some really high-quality kiltmakers out there, but quality is going to cost you. If you can afford a high-end kiltmaker, you won't regret going that route.

One that I can't recommend highly enough is Barb Tewksbury. She literally wrote the book on kiltmaking. I recently had her make me a traditional 'tank', and it is by far the best kilt I own, or could ever hope to own. I'm pretty sure that everyone I've ever seen who chose her to make their kilt came away with glowing reviews. She doesn't list standard pricing, though, so you'll need to contact her for a quote. She can get whatever tartan you desire, in whatever weight you desire, even if it means a custom mill run.

[Jock Scot]

There are good , not so good and plain awful kilt makers in Scotland and this holds true wherever in the world you look. There are many kilt makers who advertise here that have a fine reputation, but that leaves many renowned kilt makers who are not represented here. Each kilt maker has their own little tweaks that most of us do not recognise, but will make you a kilt of high standard. Read here, read as many old posts as you can and then read them again! You will then begin to work out what YOU require and who will then provide it. Read, question, read and question again take your time and then enjoy the final result.

[McClef]

Most Welsh tartans are woven in Llanwrtyd Wells in Mid Wales and tend to be of medium weight so anyone using this source for material is going to have the same problem.

Also as Matt has pointed out they do no have a selvedge so have to be hemmed.

I have had a couple of Cilts from http://www.welsh-tartan.com/ so might be useful asking them for advice etc.

[brewerpaul]

My tank was crafted by Bonnie Heather Grenne, she is a gifted artist. 16oz German Heritage wool, hand sewn. It is a beatidul kilt. She advertises here. I know many here like the kilts by Rocky , Barb T. and Matt so there is 4 great kilt makers right there.

[Father Bill]

Jock has given you fabulous advice. Don't be in a rush, this is a lifetime high value garment. Do your research and your planning and then think for a while before you commit.

And best wishes on an heirloom quality garment.

[LitTrog]

I own a USA Kilts "premiere" crafted from a 14oz. Welsh tartan (Williams) and I am absolutely thrilled with it--unfortunately it's the only high-yardage kilt I own and the heaviest weight, so I cannot compare it to a 16oz, 7-8 yard kilt. However, I can show you a couple pics of the hem that the Welsh tartans require, as performed by Rocky:

Here is the hem stitching.



This is the view from the front of the apron.



Please note that it is completely invisible from the front and, really, is not noticeable at all. The knife pleats could cut steel and the swagger and swing has garnered many compliments.

I confidently recommend Rocky, but since you can acquire lengths of the tartans directly from The Wales Tartan Centre...

http://www.welsh-tartan.com/products...--By-the-Metre

you could easily acquire your own yardage and send it off to the builder you choose. (Or he/she could also do it, I suppose!) If you buy the tartan directly, talk to a craftsperson first! They will be able to properly advise you how much you need--issues of double- and single-width and all that.

Shop around. It's a big purchase. Talk to various makers and ask whatever "silly" question comes to mind. The person/company who wants your business will take the time to address any issue you have. And enjoy the process--it's part of the pleasure of owning a kilt made just for you!

Hope that helps.

[LitTrog]

A nonessential but interesting side note about the Welsh tartans: for whatever reason, they have a much softer feel to them. Wonderful to touch. Frankly, I can hardly keep my hands off myself when I'm wearing it.

[Mike_Oettle]

Hi, WelshWarden, and welcome to X Marks.
You do seem to be over a barrel, wanting a 16oz kilt but also seeking a Welsh tartan.
You will have to think hard and choose between the two.
If it’s a 16oz you absolutely have to have, the Aberdeen tartan would seem ideal.
There is a Scottish Jones tartan (well, it is intended for English and Welsh Joneses, too), but it is not in regular supply and you would have to get a custom weave of it.
On the other hand, you could do worse than get yourself a Welsh cilt.
Regards,
Mike