Let's talk about ghillie brogues again: the Highland perspective

[Tobus]

I would think if the brogues are a hard and fast fashion no-no for formal use, we wouldn't see their use demonstrated like this. Maybe it's just marketing, maybe it's not. But I would think it poor practice to do something like this as simply a "suggestive sell", in order to sell a pair of shoes...

Well, this is where I want to be careful to distinguish between, as you say, marketing and the more established traditions. It does not escape my attention that the video you referenced also features white (or off-white) hose, tartan flashes, and the ubiquitous Prince Charlie. Each of these items are common amongst kilt-hire shops and retail shops in Edinburgh and Glasgow, but aren't necessarily endorsed by the more traditional Highland Scots. What I'm looking for is not the spiel of a salesman, but the opinion of the more traditional. I hope that doesn't sound dismissive or elitist, especially considering the fine reputation of Scotweb. But it occurs to me that there are "two schools of thought" in Highland dress. The new consumer-oriented trends and the older conservative approach. It's the older conservative approach I'm looking for.

[unixken]

I understand. You've created a thought provoking thread. Certainly a bit of marketing occurs in any web store environment... agreed (though I wasn't meaning to single out any one vendor... I merely knew of that example video and where to find it quickly.) Your points about the white hose, etc., in that same example, illustrate perfectly the point I think you are trying to make... to distinguish between what is traditional... and what happens to be selling in today's market. Kudos for an excellent thread. I'm curious to see what develops here.

[Downunder Kilt]

The majority of Ghillie brogues we see being offered for sale these days are definately those that would be worn outside, see MOR"s comments. There have been two photos put up showing ghiliies that have thinner soles than the usual run of the mill ones. I think that even these two that have thicker soles than those that MOR alludes to. I have seen one pair of ghillie brogues in the past, at a black tie ball, that had a opera pump type sole eg.



The gentleman wearing the ghillies informed me that he purchased them in Scotland in the 1950's when he and his wife used to ballroom dance, him wearing his highland attire

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

Down Under Kilt, thanks for posting the photo. While most gentlemen wear highly polished oxfords these days with formal attire, these shoes, with the the bow (as illustrated) or with buckles, would be perfectly acceptable for formal Highland evening attire. And a much better choice than ghillie brogues.

[opositive]

Ancienne Alliance's recent thread about his eldest daughter's wedding has lots of pics of him wearing buckle shoes. in my brief time here, AA is one of the classiest people i have ever seen. i do not think he would ever dress inappropriately.

[Cygnus]

The thinnest-soled ghillie brogues that I was able to find are these by Thistle Shoes:

They still don't hold a candle to the formal pumps posted earlier, but aren't too bad.
I don't claim to be a Highlander or Scotsman, though I prefer evening ghillie brogues with red laces and buckles, but finding such a shoe is a challenge. I was rather impressed with CMcG's addition of a buckle to a pair of second-hand brogues. Maybe I'll eventually find a pair of good ghillie brogues and a pair of buckles to do something similar.

[gary meakin]

Can I get a sort of "ghille brogue dos and don'ts" from our Highland brethren, based on Highland tradition as it exists today?

Some great answers but they seem to be all stateside (except one Aussie)

[OC Richard]

ghillie brogues are seen as less than desirable, and they are often referred to as "those dreaded ghillie brogues"

Well in the Pipe Band scene one hears stuff like that every day... nearly everyone hates ghillies, partly simply because they are required uniform in 99% of pipe bands, and parly because most pipers and drummers have (for some unknowable reason) purchased ghillies that don't fit right.

I've only owned two pair of ghillies since 1976... both Keltic brand... my first (1976) pair are still comfortable but the tops look a bit dogy. My new pair (c1985) are quite comfortable and I spent many a day at Games on my feet for eight or more straight hours with no troubles.

they were never meant as formal shoes... an evolution from the early Highland moccasins.

Yes it seems that this is the case though the ghillies' evolution is, as far as I can tell, nearly entirely undocumented.

They seem to have been quite common in portraits by MacLeay, although I concede that these portraits are not considered the be-all end-all of what Highlanders actually wore.

Specifically, 11 of the 56 kilted men are wearing ghillies, all of them tan rough-out leather (probably indicating their rural outdoor origin) except for a single black pair which, incidentally, have decorative buckles affixed.

About the end-all of what Highlanders actually wore, I am utterly convinced that McLeay painted the subjects in front of him quite accurately, and that his paintings are the end-all of what those specific Highlanders wore at the time they were posing for him. But even a photograph can only record what is in front of the camera the moment the photo is taken, and cannot record what happened at remote times and places. Trying to come up with a complete record of what all Highlanders wore at all times and places is beyond any portrait or photograph.

What I find interesting is how ghillies evolved from a shoe with (evidently) strong rural/rustic connexions in the 1860s to a formal shoe by the 1930s.

Time for pictures!!!

Roughout tan ghillies from The Highlanders of Scotland. Note that most of this man's other leather is also tan.



But by 1936 ghillies are thought of as formal shoes, called "patent lacing brogues"

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

Good post Richard. Those interested should note just how delicate these "Patent (leather) Lacing Brogues" are when compared to what's generally available in today's market place. Even today's "Patent (leather) Buckling Brogues" are clunky in comparison to what was on offer back in 1936. It's also interesting to note that "black brogue shoes" were offered for day wear.

[John McQuillen]

I'm not from the scottish highlands, but I do sit on a clan association council and so wear highland dress is a more official capacity.

From my experience, everyone in the councils here tend to wear ghillie brogues - in fact I bought some so I looked like the other council members rather than just wearing my ordinary brogues. Having said that many of the council members are from the scottish highlands, and some were in one of the scottish regiments at one time or another. So I view ghillie brogues as a matter of style......... no sure anyone could honestly claim appropriate or not just more whats the most common thing.