Elastic pleat-keepers in military kilts

**Tobus** · 23rd August 12, 05:48 AM

I've seen this mentioned before, but figured I'd post it for discussion and general info. I recently purchased an ex-military (Seaforth - Queen's Own Highlanders) kilt from a fellow board member. This is a military box-pleat kilt in MacKenzie tartan, pleated to the white line in the usual fashion, made by Hector Russell and dated 1993, making it one of the last kilts of the QOH era. It's a wonderful kilt, and exactly what I had been pining for.

First, a photo of the selvedge end to show the pleats. As recently discussed, this pleating style is the typical military box-pleat, or a deep asymmetrical box pleat. The top of the 'box', or the exposed part of the pleat, is about 5/8" wide, and the inner portion of each pleat overlaps about 2-1/2 pleats. For reference, the sett size is about 11-1/4", and each pleat is a half-sett (5-5/8") of cloth.

On the inside of the kilt, about 5" up from the selvedge, there is an elastic band sewn into the pleated portion of the kilt (roughly 25" across the back).

Looking more closely, the elastic is stitched to every 2nd pleat (i.e. it skips a pleat between stitch lines), and is made so that the elastic does not lay flat. This allows the pleats to swish a little and open up whilst walking, before the elastic even starts to develop tension. And even when it does start to stretch, it still allows the pleats to move even further.

As I recall, these elastic bands were added to help keep the pleats in order, since this kilt would mainly have been worn for ceremonial/dress/parade/display events. The elastic helps keep a stray wind from blowing the pleats up, but also helps return all the pleats to their position. My question to the experts here is whether the elastic band was put on there by the maker, or if it was added by the person who wore it.

I'm considering removing the elastic from this kilt, since I prefer the pleats to be more 'free'. I have to believe that even though the elastic has plenty of slack, it's still inhibiting the swish potential. But I think I'm going to wear it several times first before making that decision.

**M. A. C. Newsome** · 23rd August 12, 06:07 AM

Every Seaforth kilt I have ever seen has had this black elastic band, so my assumption would have to be that was how they were issued to the soldiers, and not something added after the fact.

**Guinness>water** · 23rd August 12, 06:11 AM

Thanks for posting this Tobus. That ought to be mandatory on all Texas plains kilts! I think I just might have to add that to my kilts, they will Marylin Monroe on you in a heart beat up here with 50mph winds. Great pictures.

**Tobus** · 23rd August 12, 12:32 PM

Originally Posted by M. A. C. Newsome

Every Seaforth kilt I have ever seen has had this black elastic band, so my assumption would have to be that was how they were issued to the soldiers, and not something added after the fact.

Hmm, very interesting! I was sort of hoping this was one of those things that individuals added to their uniforms as a sort of field-expedient solution. But it appears not. I wonder who ordered the kilts. Were these ordered by regimental supply personnel specific to a unit, or in larger bulk orders by an acquisitions department? I guess what I'm getting at is that if these were put in by the kilt makers, I would assume they were specified in the order. You mention that you see them in all the Seaforth kilts, but what about others, like Gordons? It would be interesting to know if this was a Seaforth-specific addition, and if so, why. Someone was behind it.

Not that it makes any huge difference in the world, but still, little details of military history like this are interesting. Someone may find it useful in a hundred years.

**M. A. C. Newsome** · 23rd August 12, 01:43 PM

Originally Posted by Tobus

Hmm, very interesting! I was sort of hoping this was one of those things that individuals added to their uniforms as a sort of field-expedient solution. But it appears not. I wonder who ordered the kilts. Were these ordered by regimental supply personnel specific to a unit, or in larger bulk orders by an acquisitions department? I guess what I'm getting at is that if these were put in by the kilt makers, I would assume they were specified in the order. You mention that you see them in all the Seaforth kilts, but what about others, like Gordons? It would be interesting to know if this was a Seaforth-specific addition, and if so, why. Someone was behind it.

Not that it makes any huge difference in the world, but still, little details of military history like this are interesting. Someone may find it useful in a hundred years.

I have this nagging feeling in the back of my mind that maybe the Queens Own Cameronians also had this sort of elastic, but I'm not sure. Could just be the Seaforths. I bet others here on the board will chime in.

**cessna152towser** · 23rd August 12, 01:43 PM

I'm considering removing the elastic from this kilt, since I prefer the pleats to be more 'free'. I have to believe that even though the elastic has plenty of slack, it's still inhibiting the swish potential. But I think I'm going to wear it several times first before making that decision.

Difficult decision. It is your kilt and up to you to make it comfortable for wearing but if you do remove the elastic it alters the kilt from its original condition and could reduce its value when your heirs eventually wish to sell it on.

**ThistleDown** · 23rd August 12, 04:35 PM

Originally Posted by M. A. C. Newsome

I have this nagging feeling in the back of my mind that maybe the Queens Own Cameronians also had this sort of elastic, but I'm not sure. Could just be the Seaforths. I bet others here on the board will chime in.

Just a wee correction, Matt. Two separate regiments, the Queen's Own Cameron Highlanders and The Cameronians (Scottish Rifles). The former based at Cameron Barracks, Inverness, with a Highland recruiting area and the latter with a Borders base. The former eventually combined with the Seaforths to form the Queen's Own Highlanders and then the QOH with the Gordons in the mid-1990s.

**sailortats** · 23rd August 12, 05:02 PM

Tobus, I, for one, would not take out the elastic band. You bought this military kilt because that is what you wanted, a military kilt. By taking out the elastic band you are altering this kilt and turning it into something that is no longer a Seaforth - Queens own Highlanders kilt but a kilt that is now similar but not the same as the military kilt. This kilt was part of a uniform and should not be altered is my way of looking at it.

**Spartan Tartan** · 23rd August 12, 05:18 PM

Oh man...that is too cool! I would not take out that elastic either. I agree, Tobus, it would be interesting to hear the thoughts or the discussion that resulted in the choice to add the elastic.

**M. A. C. Newsome** · 23rd August 12, 06:06 PM

Originally Posted by ThistleDown

Just a wee correction, Matt. Two separate regiments, the Queen's Own Cameron Highlanders and The Cameronians (Scottish Rifles). The former based at Cameron Barracks, Inverness, with a Highland recruiting area and the latter with a Borders base. The former eventually combined with the Seaforths to form the Queen's Own Highlanders and then the QOH with the Gordons in the mid-1990s.

Thanks for the correction, I meant the former, but my fingers got the best of me. :-)