Okay, just got an email back from Kathy,

"Hi Ron,

It is pleated to the sett. The larger sett size that was designed did make for wider pleats than usual. When Steve designed it for 4 yard box pleats this happened. Hope this helps."

I think she means Rocky rather than Steve. She just sewed up the Dress Blue Marine tartan from Steve right before the Federal Memorial from Rocky.

But, gotta tell you...with the light just right it looks like it alternates sett, stripe, sett but based on a smaller sett which it really isn't.

I sew, I bleed...but no way could I ever do the math you kiltmakers do to pleat...no way...