Kilt Pleats

[Paul Henry]

Interesting that Chrystel's centre box pleat appears to have been constructed using an added piece of cloth, you can just about see about see the two seams on the sides of the box, this means that she would be able to select exactly which bit of the tartan to use/display on that pleat.

[Barb T]

Interesting that Chrystel's centre box pleat appears to have been constructed using an added piece of cloth, you can just about see about see the two seams on the sides of the box, this means that she would be able to select exactly which bit of the tartan to use/display on that pleat.

Sharp eyes! Yes - if you look closely, you'll see another wide red stripe hidden inside the fold of the tail pleat completely "out of sett"!!! Have to say, though - that's a pretty bulky solution.

[TheOfficialBren]

Not to intrude but her solution seems pretty bold and innovative. Sharply spotted, sir!

[M. A. C. Newsome]

Wow, good eye, Paul, I missed that!

Yes, that is indeed one solution. And Barb, I think you analysis is spot on, as well. Depending on the tartan in question, you certainly can get creative with the pleating style to come up with other ways of doing it.

But still, I think the simplest solution is just to make your Kingussie kilt with 4 or 5 yards of cloth and then you won't have any issues at all! :-)

[Barb T]

But I do have to say that it's harder to lay out a Kingussie kilt than any of the others, IMHO. Getting a good look, a tail pleat that isn't either mammoth or teeny, plus not winding up with either a big gap or a pile-up can be a big challenge. And I have to say that I'm not convinced that the double seam hidden underneath the tail pleat is the answer, especially for a 4-5 yard Kingussie. Each seam adds considerable bulk (especially in a small pleat) because each seam is a triple thickness of tartan.

[M. A. C. Newsome]

But I do have to say that it's harder to lay out a Kingussie kilt than any of the others, IMHO. Getting a good look, a tail pleat that isn't either mammoth or teeny, plus not winding up with either a big gap or a pile-up can be a big challenge. And I have to say that I'm not convinced that the double seam hidden underneath the tail pleat is the answer, especially for a 4-5 yard Kingussie. Each seam adds considerable bulk (especially in a small pleat) because each seam is a triple thickness of tartan.

I shouldn't think there would ever be a need to do that in a 4 or 5 yard Kingussie pleated kilt.

[Barb T]

True. Would be something you might choose to do, though, if you wanted a particular stripe in the tail pleat and a stripe that's "too far away" for the knife pleats. But you'd still be faced with the bulk issue.

[vorpallemur]

But I do have to say that it's harder to lay out a Kingussie kilt than any of the others, IMHO. Getting a good look, a tail pleat that isn't either mammoth or teeny, plus not winding up with either a big gap or a pile-up can be a big challenge. And I have to say that I'm not convinced that the double seam hidden underneath the tail pleat is the answer, especially for a 4-5 yard Kingussie. Each seam adds considerable bulk (especially in a small pleat) because each seam is a triple thickness of tartan.

It needn't be. Overcast the edges (by hand or machine) and a plain seam pressed open is only a single extra layer. Its on the underside of the pleat, so even if there were any pulling at it, it would be invisible. A couple tacks to keep the allowance flat, and it would be pretty invisible. or it could be simple lap seam, with the over edge stitches holding the two layers together.

[OC Richard]

This has been very interesting, this discussion of the intricacies of the Kingussie style kilt. I'm in awe of it all. I will say that I prefer the look of the reverse Kingussie posted by Paul Henry above, because the pleats sweep back towards that central box pleat.

[Pleater]

I converted all but one of my kilts to the reverse Kingussie style, and only make that style now - the pleats facing back on both sides makes venturing through scrub less likely to become exasperating and having to go back to unhook the kilt less likely.

Anne the Pleater :ootd: