thread size

[rhondan]

I am making my first kilt. I am having some trouble trying to find the right thickness of the
gutermann thread. Should it be a heavy thread or just their regular thread they sell. The regular thread doesn't look strong enough to me, also they said to use carpet thread all I could find was upholstery thread for the skeeting and buckles. Would that work? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.

[The Wizard of BC]

Gutermann sew-all is what I use and what is recommended in The Art of Kiltmaking. Insure you get the 100% polyester.
This is for sewing the Fell, buckle tabs and any part that would show. The goal is no visible stitches. None, nada.
Use this same thread for the interior details such as the facings

If you can, use the exact color of the place you are sewing. Blue for the Blue pleats, Green for the Green pleats etc. Change color as needed.
If you need to choose between two colors take the one slightly darker.

For sewing the stabilizer, interfacing and straps I use upholstery thread. This is not according to TAoK but I want strength over invisible stitches in these places.

For basting I use any thread I have at hand. I like upholstery thread for this, but that is because I have fat, guy fingers and I can take out the basting, iron the thread and use it again. Barb thinks I'm insane.

[Paul Henry]

Many kiltmakers use Gutterman thread, for all the general sewing, it's strong , yet light, yes it's a littel more expensive than normal thread, but it's meant to last and it really is worth using for a garment that will last. I use it for all visible parts including the stabiliser and pad stitching,there is no need to use havy thread for this, heavy thread here adds bulk and doesn't really give a benefit.In professional tailoring the same weight of thread on most of the internal work.
.
For the leather work and the steeking I use a linen thread, sometimes called button thread in the UK, it's a little thicker but immensely strong.

The idea of using upholstry thread for the basting is somewhat strange and I certainly wouldn't advise using it, basting is only a temporary stitch and by using a thicker or stronger thread you do run the risk of marking the actual fabric, I use a lighter cotton thread in a contrasting colour, the cotton because it means that the thread will break if under too much pressure so protecting the good fabric, and the contrasting colour because when it is removed any small remains can be safely removed because you know it's not part of the actual sewing of the kilt.

Every kiltmaker doe things differently and there isn't one way of doing it, after a while you will that you prefer one way over another, the only thing I might suggest is to use good quality thread such as Gutterman

[Pleater]

I use lighter threads for sewing, so that the stitches give way before the fabric. That way I might have to restitch something into place, but I don't end up with a line of stitches firmly through the backing material and my kilt fabric torn into two pieces.

For pleats you should only require a light thread - if the sewing breaks it is under too much strain, the foundation layers might be wrongly fitted, they ought to take the pressure of the fixings and the stress of movement, sitting etc. Quilting or button thread should be adequate for the buckles and straps, and for the under pinning of the fell - again if it isn't then there is something not right. The kilt was not designed to constrict - it is not a corset by another name.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

[fluter]

If you're in the US, the heavy thread that I find readily is Coats & Clark's button and carpet thread. There are some in between weights called "heavy"---that is, noticeably lighter than the button thread, heavier than regular.

More is revealed in The Art of Kiltmaking, at your favorite highland outfitter or directly from the author.

P.S. there are some Gutermann upholstery and heavy duty threads that I have not tried.

[Barb T]

Gutermann (regular, not heavy weight) is plenty strong enough for stitching pleats, and it won't rot over time.

As Fluter says, Coats and Clark makes Button and Carpet thread, and it's great for buckles, buckle tabs, straps, stabilizer, steeking, and canvas.

For basting, be sure to buy 100% polyester rather than cotton-wrapped polyester - the cotton cover shreds into little nubs and is a pain to remove (however, Coats and Clark's new Dual Duty XP seems to work OK, although it's a bit "springy"). I just go to Joann's and buy the cheapest spool of white 100% polyester thread for basting - they almost always have it on sale.

I always use white for basting. Contrasts nicely with almost all tartans, and you don't take a chance of having color rub off on or bleed into the white areas of a dress tartan when you're steaming the kilt.

[rhondan]

Thanks to everyone who replied about the type of thread I need to use. All the information was very helpful. Great to get so many responses and so quickly.