Kilt Weight: Heavy versus Medium

[Mychael Sporrano]

Every time I have seen a subject line such as the above, it has been the prelude to a question such as: "Which is better?", or, "What should I buy?", etc. Having recently obtained a kilt made from either, and therefore a bit of first-hand experience, I have far fewer questions than before and thought that I would give some unsolicited personal insight for those who are faced with making a decision based on which weight kilt to purchase.

Over the weekend I wore a 13 oz., 8 yard Kilt from Kinloch Anderson to two separate functions. Temperature was in the 70s F (roughly 20C ) both days, and I was very comfortable. Probably the aspect of dress that made me the most uncomfortable was the shoes, wool socks and flashes. The kilt was soft on my skin and it had nice movement.

Yesterday, the temperature was a bit higher, in the 80s F. I decided to see what an 8 yard heavy weight kilt would feel like to wear about outside. The difference between 13 oz and 16 oz is noticeable in terms of heft when one is held in either hand. On my person this difference was still noticeable, especially in the back where most of the material of a kilt is gathered in the form of pleats. The movement is FANTASTIC, substantial enough that it can be seen even by those who approach head-on, or so it was reported.

I wore the heavy weight kilt on a hike uptown, so I gave it a good workout. To be truthful it wasn't as hot as I would have thought. While sitting in a diner with the kids it was a little more blanket-like on my lap than the 13 oz, but I wasn't being tortured to any extent. Sitting in the sun or in a car might be a different story entirely. I am of the belief that what we wear up top has the most to do with how warm or cool we are. I was wearing a very thin cotton shirt and no hat.

One very noticeable difference between the medium and heavy weights, and one that might have more 'sway' with me concerning future decisions is how it feels to the skin. Where my 13 oz. kilt is amazingly soft, the 16 oz. kilt is more scratchy on my lap while seated, and calves while walking. Nothing ridiculous, but noticeable. Where cause for concern might come in with some gentlemen is how this wool feels on the genitalia if regimental is the preferred option. I could certainly see that becoming an issue with a little time and continued movement.

The yarn or thread making up the heavier wool is of proportionately thicker gauge than that used for the 13 oz. That probably has a lot to do with this increased perception of scratchiness. There could also be a difference based on the textile mill. To this end, I have read that quality wool tartan is comprised of yarn using longer hairs in its manufacture. Less "ends" translates into less things to poke and prod your skin. I do not know the source of the tartan used in the manufacture of my kilts. Neither touts the use of a Teflon coating.

The heavy weight kilt was warmer. That cannot be denied. There is more material around my waist in the form of wool, canvas, and linen. That rise or waist is probably the source of the most discomfort while wearing a traditional kilt, and no doubt a major reason behind the introduction of the casual kilt. Still, it was fine for the one hour I wore the kilt while engaged in brisk walking with two kids who were on scooters. Did it feel good to return home and slip into my casual kilt? YES! But there is nothing quite like the look or feel of those heavy weight pleats swishing behind you, and that is a major plus for the heavy weight kilt.

As aside from physical differences, there can be a big difference in the prices between 13 oz and 16 oz kilts, depending on where they are purchased. I have seen some suppliers who ask a flat fee for a kilt made from any tartan and weight. Others charge a little more for heavy, while others really up the ante for heavy weight kilts, especially if they need to be specially woven or are available only in single width material. It should be noted here that sometimes your decision will need to be based on tartan choice since some tartans, such as my Campbell of Argyll weathered, are only available in a 16 oz, or Strome weight. Furthermore, also like the previously mentioned example, some are only available in single width Strome, meaning that the kilt maker has to buy twice the material and join it together in order to equal double width. The price for single width is more than 1/2 the cost of the standard double width, so it costs the kilt maker more and causes him or her more fuss. That additional expense is passed along to the consumer. Interestingly enough, my heavy weight kilt cost the same as any of the 13 oz tartans. I was very surprised to see the supplier offer such a deal and quickly took him up on it. The quality is evident, so in that regard at least I suppose I was lucky to have found a bargain.

What do the experts recommend you purchase? There seems to be differences in philosophies between the suppliers. For example, Kinloch Anderson does their best to talk you into a medium weight kilt while Geoffrey (tailor) encourages a gentleman to buy 16/17 oz, ideally. I found that difference interesting. Based on what I have found so far, my advice is to get the heaviest weight you can afford if you plan to wear the kilt a lot, or plan to hill walk. It is less affected by wind and thistle and can probably bear more trips to the cleaner. If your climate is blazing hot, I would probably have one heavy weight just to have it for those times when I could wear it, and invest mostly in the 13 oz weight.

I like threads that can hang around and be built upon by the initial author as more info is gathered. As winter approaches I will be able to post how well either weight performs in my cold and windy climate where the temp dips below freezing.

I was tempted to put this in the section under traditional kilts, but this is meant to give a advice and is a question that also concerns buyers of casual kilts. I discovered this when I ordered a solid black wool 6 yard casual from 21st century and had to make a decision based on what weight I desired. I choose the heavy weight with Teflon coating and look forward to adding how it works out for me.

Does anyone have anything to add to this?

Mychael

[Rufus]

Mychael,

You've just answered a question I've had for a while even better than I could have ever imagined. I've wondered what the practical differences between the two weights was, and which would be better for the region I live in.

Thanks!!

[Freelander Sporrano]

I wore the heavy weight kilt on a hike uptown, so I gave it a good workout. To be truthful it wasn't as hot as I would have thought. While sitting in a diner with the kids it was a little more blanket-like on my lap than the 13 oz, but I wasn't being tortured to any extent. Sitting in the sun or in a car might be a different story entirely. I am of the belief that what we wear up top has the most to do with how warm or cool we are. I was wearing a very thin cotton shirt and no hat.

I'll second that blanket type feeling while sitting. I have a Medium weight kilt. Which at the moment is VeryHot to wear.Far to warm for a hike in the woods so I've used shorts recently.( Alright I'm sorry )

I'm thinking of a 4 or 5 yarder in a lightweight next to get more use in the hot weather.(Then maybe I can go for a little more kilted time. There that better now )

Also I'd like to say you have covered the subject very comprehensively.I look forward to your winter repot.How cold does it get where you live

[bubba]

I'm thinking of a 4 or 5 yarder in a lightweight next to get more use in the hot weather.(Then maybe I can go for a little more kilted time.

Perhaps you might look into alternatives to wool. I have 2 cotton kilts that have been great this summer. Very comfortable.

[Freelander Sporrano]

I don't think cotton kilts are for me Bubba...sorry

[bubba]

Freelander, the kilt I'm wearing in my avatar is cotton. There is a better pic in my gallery. Very comfortable in the warmer weather, even at temps above 80 F.

[Freelander Sporrano]

Sorry Bubba I thought that when you said cotton that You really ment plain colour kilt

[Rob]

My kilt gives me the best of both worlds. It is a 15oz medium/heavy.

Rob

[Vince]

Mychael -

I have worn my 13 oz in temperatures from mid 20 °F to mid 80 °F and have been comfortable in both cases. If I had to spend long amounts of time in cooler temperatures, I would probably opt for a heavier weight kilt. As for the upper end, if it gets too warm I'd switch to my 4 yd. Bear Kilt.

[Blu (Ontario)]

Your essay pretty much covers the significant issues as far as I'm concerned. I also own both a 13oz and 16oz 8 yard kilts. I find that both perform almost equally well but I find that I prefer the 13oz under most circumstances and for reasons of comfort. I believe that the bristley surface of the wool is what allows the pleated layers to move so well and provide that characteristic swing. The movement of softer fabrics are adequate but you can't beat worsted wool for swing action.