Formal footwear

[Jock Scot]

Well here we are. Not the best of pictures, but should give a flavour. After all your excellent advice, I've decided on and acquired a pair of British army surplus highland brogues - issued to Scottish and Gurkha regiments - all leather, goodyear welted, unworn and only 40 quid. My quest for value continues and I'm now pestering the highland wear outfitters of Scotland in search of an ex hire or end of line grey tweed argyll jacket and waistcoat.

Attachment 11363

Well done laddie!

[BCAC]

Well here we are. Not the best of pictures, but should give a flavour. After all your excellent advice, I've decided on and acquired a pair of British army surplus highland brogues - issued to Scottish and Gurkha regiments - all leather, goodyear welted, unworn and only 40 quid. My quest for value continues and I'm now pestering the highland wear outfitters of Scotland in search of an ex hire or end of line grey tweed argyll jacket and waistcoat.

Attachment 11363

Excellent catch, Steve. Where did you find those?

Now all that's left to do is to get them double soled, spoon them down, beeswax and bull them.

[MacLowlife]

As has already been observed, "oxford" can either be the generic term for a shoe with laces or something more specific. A particular kind of shoe with laces that I find to be very elegant is the wholecut- sometimes entirely plain, sometimes perforated a little just to show how plain it is otherwise. The thing that distinguishes a wholecut is that it has been made from one piece of leather and has no seams, save one up the back ( and one to hold the tongue, I expect). To my mind, wholecuts might be too sleek for kilt wear, save very dressy occasionsm where some of the other options would probably do as well or better.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Charles-Tyrw...item460e337dde


I think a heavier (double) sole is better for most kilted occasions. Again, other than the most formal, sorry for the derailing... Anybody else have an opinion on sole thickness?

[artificer]

As has already been observed, "oxford" can either be the generic term for a shoe with laces or something more specific. A particular kind of shoe with laces that I find to be very elegant is the wholecut- sometimes entirely plain, sometimes perforated a little just to show how plain it is otherwise. The thing that distinguishes a wholecut is that it has been made from one piece of leather and has no seams, save one up the back ( and one to hold the tongue, I expect). To my mind, wholecuts might be too sleek for kilt wear, save very dressy occasionsm where some of the other options would probably do as well or better.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Charles-Tyrw...item460e337dde


I think a heavier (double) sole is better for most kilted occasions. Again, other than the most formal, sorry for the derailing... Anybody else have an opinion on sole thickness?

Wholecut shoes are absolutely gorgeous when done properly.

As to sole thickness, I agree that, barring formal occasions, a thick sole or overall chunkier shoe helps balance the look with a kilt.

ith:

[CMcG]

...
I think a heavier (double) sole is better for most kilted occasions. Again, other than the most formal, sorry for the derailing... Anybody else have an opinion on sole thickness?

Personally, I like some sole on my shoes for practical reasons such as cushioning and grip. My understanding of formal footwear, however, is that traditionally there is an inversely proportional relationship between formality and sole thickness i.e. the more formal the event, the thinner the sole. There are, of course, other considerations such as colour, detailing, and construction...

... I was thinking an Oxford (balmoral) brogue would be fine for morning dress, but not sure how it would suit with black tie in the evening?

Well here we are. Not the best of pictures, but should give a flavour. After all your excellent advice, I've decided on and acquired a pair of British army surplus highland brogues - issued to Scottish and Gurkha regiments - all leather, goodyear welted, unworn and only 40 quid. ...

Attachment 11363

Those are pretty sweet, StevieR. If you take BCAC's advice and put a regimental shine on them, they will be very suitable for morning dress or day wear. Personally, I feel like they aren't the best choice for black tie in the evening. You could probably get away with it if you polish them enough, but they aren't ideal.

The idea I have in my head is that the only brogues that really go with formal, Highland evening attire are bar & buckle brogues or ghillie brogues. Some people even don't prefer either of those! For black tie evening wear, the aforementioned non-perforated, closed lace, thin sole, dress shoes would probably the most universally accepted -- aka Balmoral/Oxford. Can anyone comment on this?

[StevieR]

Excellent catch, Steve. Where did you find those?

Now all that's left to do is to get them double soled, spoon them down, beeswax and bull them.

Ebay, searched for "highland brogue" and got lucky with an unworn pair in my size. Spoon and candle in use last night! Just like being back in the CCF at school

[StevieR]

The idea I have in my head is that the only brogues that really go with formal, Highland evening attire are bar & buckle brogues or ghillie brogues. Some people even don't prefer either of those! For black tie evening wear, the aforementioned non-perforated, closed lace, thin sole, dress shoes would probably the most universally accepted -- aka Balmoral/Oxford. Can anyone comment on this?[/QUOTE]

Agreed, Colin. Buckles will be sought when I need something for the evening.