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  1. #1
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    When dealing with small strips cut on the bias it is really easy to distort them.

    I think that has happened with the strip shown as an example, as the lower edge yellow stripe intersection looks as though it is stretched, though it could be that the strip was folded on a curve as at the left side the yellow V seems too narrow.

    For similar sewing I would not cut out the piece exactly but make it oversize, tack it into place and trim it down with infinite patience in order to get the match exact - otherwise it would just bother me every time I saw it. I know I make even the most particular people raise an eyebrow, but getting something almost right just does not work for me.

    I once disassembled a completed jersey and re-knitted the back because there were three stitches wrong. I just had to do it.

    There is something called stay stitching which might help - it is just a line of machine stitching which stops an edge from distorting once it is cut and handled. If you do it on the uncut cloth it can help a lot with small pieces. Also having a board covered in a thin foam and a cloth with something like gingham fixed to it - as long as the angles are right you can then pin out cloth on the square and be fairly confident of working true and level.

    Anne the Pleater :ootd:

  2. #2
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    Fusible interfacing applied to the fabric before cutting out small pieces, like welts, can stop the bias-distortion, too.
    --dbh

    When given a choice, most people will choose.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pleater View Post
    When dealing with small strips cut on the bias it is really easy to distort them.

    I think that has happened with the strip shown as an example, as the lower edge yellow stripe intersection looks as though it is stretched, though it could be that the strip was folded on a curve as at the left side the yellow V seems too narrow.

    . . . out cloth on the square and be fairly confident of working true and level.

    Anne the Pleater :ootd:
    Anne the main problem is the lack of over all experience of the sewer. I am getting better but it take projects.

  4. #4
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    As Anne said above this example is not perfect but I think it give an alternative method that might be worth considering. I am working on a scrap and using contrasting color thread so it shows up.

    The material and location for the pocket is shown below.

    CIMG0005.jpg

    Once the location is identified I picked the piece of material I would use for the welt.
    CIMG0006.jpg

    I then marker off the bottom and sides of the pocket position.

  5. #5
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    With the location of the pocket marked on the front I turned the material over and used fusible interfacing to reinforce the back side of the material.

    CIMG0013.jpg



    A second piece of material is then found that has the same pattern. This will be used for the welt. CIMG0015.jpg

    The welt is then folded and aligned so the fold edge matches the tartan at the pocket location.

    CIMG0016.jpg
    Last edited by Friday; 11th May 13 at 12:32 PM.

  6. #6
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    I then turned the welt over and pressed along the matching edge. And the welt marked out on the material. In this example the welt is designed to extend above the actual pocket opening. The inter rectangle shows the pocket opening.

    CIMG0026.jpg


    I then cut the welt out.

    CIMG0029.jpg

    I then fold the seam allowance under and press the welt. I have not sewn the welt at this point.

    CIMG0031.jpg

    Be very careful that the folds and pressing is square.

  7. #7
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    This is where I venture away from the other methods I have seen. I now place the folded welt on the pocket location and pin in place.

    CIMG0033.jpg

    I now sew the edges of the welt to the body. Be very careful to stop at the line marked for the bottom of the pocket opening.

    CIMG0036.jpg

    Note: the pocket opening has not be cut up to this point. ( Looking at the picture above you can see the pattern is very closely matched. I screwed up sewing and the right hand edge shifted.)

    I turn the material over and mark the pocket opening. The opening is marked in black marker so it shows against the white interfacing.

    CIMG0038.jpg

  8. #8
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    Whit the opening marked I cut the opening and pressed it open.

    CIMG0041.jpg

    I pull the welt through the opening.

    CIMG0044.jpg

    Once the welt is pulled through the opening, I fold the material down and align the opening and press it. The bottom of the opening is pined through the edge of the opening. Be very careful to pin through the fold and the welt and no the top layer of material.

    CIMG0043.jpg

    Carefully fold the body up over the welt and sew the welt to the body.

    CIMG0045.jpg

    Turning back to the front

    CIMG0050.jpg

    I will not show the insertion of the pocket bag since this is performed in the standard way.

    Anne the Pleater mention the ease with which the material can shift, care needs to also be take when press in the pocket. A small shift in the fold as pressing can show in the lines not be correct.

    If you have a method the works for you use it. I am not saying or implying that this a the best way or even a good way to make single welt pockets. It works for me and gives me better results than the other methods I have tried.

    Sorry it took so long to complete, I had to get a new laptop and configure it the process.

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