As Anne said above this example is not perfect but I think it give an alternative method that might be worth considering. I am working on a scrap and using contrasting color thread so it shows up. The material and location for the pocket is shown below. CIMG0005.jpg Once the location is identified I picked the piece of material I would use for the welt. CIMG0006.jpg I then marker off the bottom and sides of the pocket position.
With the location of the pocket marked on the front I turned the material over and used fusible interfacing to reinforce the back side of the material. CIMG0013.jpg A second piece of material is then found that has the same pattern. This will be used for the welt. CIMG0015.jpg The welt is then folded and aligned so the fold edge matches the tartan at the pocket location. CIMG0016.jpg
Last edited by Friday; 11th May 13 at 12:32 PM.
I then turned the welt over and pressed along the matching edge. And the welt marked out on the material. In this example the welt is designed to extend above the actual pocket opening. The inter rectangle shows the pocket opening. CIMG0026.jpg I then cut the welt out. CIMG0029.jpg I then fold the seam allowance under and press the welt. I have not sewn the welt at this point. CIMG0031.jpg Be very careful that the folds and pressing is square.
This is where I venture away from the other methods I have seen. I now place the folded welt on the pocket location and pin in place. CIMG0033.jpg I now sew the edges of the welt to the body. Be very careful to stop at the line marked for the bottom of the pocket opening. CIMG0036.jpg Note: the pocket opening has not be cut up to this point. ( Looking at the picture above you can see the pattern is very closely matched. I screwed up sewing and the right hand edge shifted.) I turn the material over and mark the pocket opening. The opening is marked in black marker so it shows against the white interfacing. CIMG0038.jpg
Whit the opening marked I cut the opening and pressed it open. CIMG0041.jpg I pull the welt through the opening. CIMG0044.jpg Once the welt is pulled through the opening, I fold the material down and align the opening and press it. The bottom of the opening is pined through the edge of the opening. Be very careful to pin through the fold and the welt and no the top layer of material. CIMG0043.jpg Carefully fold the body up over the welt and sew the welt to the body. CIMG0045.jpg Turning back to the front CIMG0050.jpg I will not show the insertion of the pocket bag since this is performed in the standard way. Anne the Pleater mention the ease with which the material can shift, care needs to also be take when press in the pocket. A small shift in the fold as pressing can show in the lines not be correct. If you have a method the works for you use it. I am not saying or implying that this a the best way or even a good way to make single welt pockets. It works for me and gives me better results than the other methods I have tried. Sorry it took so long to complete, I had to get a new laptop and configure it the process.
Originally Posted by sailortats SM, it concerns me some that you are a medic AND a very handy hand stitcher. One has to wonder if there is a connection.:-) Why, yes there is... I learned both in the Army. Skin is easier to line up correctly, but wool is easier to stitch. Hahaha... At least until you start talking about multiple layers, then neither is very easy. After posting my original message, I happened to find a site with a large selection of very nice waistcoats at very reasonable prices. I have not purchased anything from them before so I have no idea about quality yet but I am going to purchase a waistcoat so I'll post when it gets here: Gentleman's Emporium http://www.gentlemansemporium.com/store/vests.php Medic
Last edited by SadisticMedic; 15th May 13 at 06:38 PM. Reason: Added URL
This whole thread has been really informative. I truly enjoyed looking at it. The only problem is that these tend to inspire me to do a lot of crazy things with a needle and thread.
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