Lets talk tartan waistcoats

[CMcG]

I think there is nothing wrong with wearing size variants of the same sett or items cut from different runs/ages of the same sett. I've seen pics of folks in the Highlands pairing different colour schemes of the same tartan (i.e. weathered with modern) or even different tartans from the same clan, though I personally don't prefer the way that looks.

Many people seem to likt a bias cut tartan waistcoat because of the contrast it creates with the kilt, but a square cut tartan waistcoat can also look good because of the way it fits with the kilt. I don't think there is a difference in formality of the tartan cut, but rather the height of gorge. A low cut waistcoat is for formal wear, while a higher cut one is a bit more versatile.

In my experience with THCD, a tartan waistcoat is uncommon for daywear, but not entirely out of bounds. I would tend to reserve it for impact, such as on Tartan Day or a special Scottish occasion. It would seem a bit much just for a trip down to the pub...

Here's a few pics of my tartan waistcoat, worn at increasing levels of formality.

[Jock Scot]

Sorry, a bit late on parade on this one. I can only tell you what I have seen over the years here in Scotland and others may well have seen tartan waist coats(pictures even)in Scotland that I have not.

Having said that, in 70 something years, I could count on my fingers the times that I have seen a tartan waist coat -----and still have some fingers left----worn with day attire.

For formal evening wear, tartan waist coats are rather more common(not common place), particularly in the Western Highlands, as are tartan jackets. I can only recall tartan waist coats and tartan jackets being cut on the bias and to my eyes that seems to work for those that like them. From the pictures that I have seen of tartan waist coats not cut on the bias, I am afraid that, for me, they just do not impress.

[creagdhubh]

For formal evening wear, tartan waist coats are rather more common (not common place), particularly in the Western Highlands, as are tartan jackets.

Precisely, Jock. I can count on one hand the number of Macphersons, to include myself, that will sometimes wear a tartan waistcoat with their Highland evening attire at our annual ball and ceilidh at the Duke of Gordon Hotel in Kingussie. Most of what you see is either black or scarlet barathea waistcoats.

[Nathan]

My dad's waistcoat is kind of in between. Leaving aside the non-bias cut of the tartan, it's 5 buttons so that seems to rule out formal wear but the buttons are silver which suggests formality in Highland attire. He's had it for many years and I do like it... hmmm...

[creagdhubh]

Whilst we are on the subject of tartan waistcoats, here are some interesting visual examples (both day and evening) to which I have posted on the forum previously:

John Macpherson of Nairn (former Chairman of the Clan Macpherson Association) wears a three button tartan waistcoat of Macpherson hunting tartan with his Highland day attire. I can be seen in the foreground. This photo was taken just prior to the men of Clan Macpherson, led by Cluny, making their traditional march from Old Ralia to The Eilan in Newtonmore, Inverness-shire.


The late P/M John D. Burgess...what can I say? Always well turned out.


Bruce Macpherson of London wearing his rather cheeky, "party" waistcoat in all of the different Macpherson tartans (waistcoat not to be taken seriously).


A lively chap in a lovely tartan waistcoat at the Lochearnhead Highland Games including Strathyre & Balquhidder.


James William Stuart Whitemore Sempill, 21st Lord Sempill (in tartan waistcoat) at the 2009 Gathering in Edinburgh.


Captain Alwyne Arthur Compton Farquharson of Invercauld, Chief of the Name and Arms of Farquharson, 16th Baron of Invercauld and Omnalprie, MC, JP.


A rather interesting photo here. Notice His Royal Highness Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh wearing a tartan waistcoat made of Balmoral tartan, which corresponds with the colours of the hose, and a kilt made of Royal Stewart tartan. I must say that I really like this approach, though I have always been staunchly against the wearing of two different tartan setts together. I think it works quite well with the two very different tartans represented; however, I think what really brings a bit of balance to the whole ensemble, is the fact that the hose correspond nicely with the Balmoral tartan in the waistcoat. If the hose were Argyll style tartan hose done to correspond with the Royal Stewart tartan in HRH's kilt, I think the overall balance would be slightly askew. Just my two cents.


Cheers,

[CMcG]

My dad's waistcoat is kind of in between. Leaving aside the non-bias cut of the tartan, it's 5 buttons so that seems to rule out formal wear but the buttons are silver which suggests formality in Highland attire. He's had it for many years and I do like it... hmmm...

I don't think 5 buttons rules a waistcoat out for formal wear, especially because your buttons are silver. It might look a bit off with the lower lapels of a PC, but could work with a dress Argyll or perhaps a doublet? Maybe paired with a cravat? A bow tie can work too, though...

Day wear is a bit trickier and the only time I've worn my tartan waistcoat with a tweed jacket has been on Tartan Day. It seemed appropriate, given the nature of the celebration I could also see it if you were involved in some sort of a clan celebration, perhaps in an official capacity?

[AJBryant]

Having said that, in 70 something years, I could count on my fingers the times that I have seen a tartan waist coat -----and still have some fingers left----worn with day attire.

Jock, this is pretty much what I had suspected.

In your opinion, and based on your observations, would you say a black barathea PC with a same-fabric vest is *more* or *less* "formal" than a tartan waistcoat of the same cut? (Or is there no difference?)

I really wish I had the benefit of Scottish experience to help me with this sort of thing.

That said...

This picture confuses me, as the esteemed Pipe Major is wearing a belt *and* a waistcoat, which I always thought violated a cardinal rule.



Again, I haz teh confuze.

[Father Bill]

I was thinking about having a tartan waistcoat made up... as an option to wear when I'm in Saxon garb! It would certainly add a good deal of colour to the otherwise drab outfits.

What say you, lads & lasses?

[creagdhubh]

I have never thought of a tartan waistcoat as being more or less formal than their solid coloured counterparts, simply different. A belt worn over the waistcoat is really the correct way of wearing it, rather than it worn underneath the waistcoat. This is typically done for formal evening events when sometimes a dirk and dirk frog, which attaches to the belt, is worn. The only person I have seen wear a belt over their waistcoat with Highland day attire is Captain Alwyne Arthur Compton Farquharson of Invercauld, and he looks very smart in doing so.

[Nathan]

Having said that, in 70 something years, I could count on my fingers the times that I have seen a tartan waist coat -----and still have some fingers left----worn with day attire.

And it seems Kyle was there with his camera for at least half of those!