Fabric suggestions for a Jacobite-era coat?

[MacHenderson]

Hey all, I'm getting ready to make a Jacobite-era coat for my get-up. After reading through the extensive and incredibly informative Jacobite Clothing thread, I've settled on a pattern from Reconstructing History: The 1740's Frock Coat. From what I understood in that thread, this would be considered an accurate style jacket for the Jacobite era, particularly the 1745 rebellion, albeit with the coat shortened up to the waist to accommodate the kilt. Is this correct? I also understood that this Waistcoat pattern from jas-townsend.com would be acceptable as well. Thoughts?
Now as for fabrics, I was thinking either wool or linen. I believe they are both historically correct, but does anyone recommend one over the other? And then as far as wool goes, I was looking around and found many different types of wool. I was looking at lightweight stuff, but even within that there's different types of wool, such as crepe fabric, twill, flannel, etc. Which is the right kind to use?

[TheOfficialBren]

Egads?! I wish Woodsheal were around to answer this one. He knows the dress of that era better than most people alive, I gather!

Best of luck, mate.

[Grizzly]

Lady Chrystel makes those kind of jackets perhaps a look at her website might throw up a few ideas. Robert, her husband (Ancienne Alliance) always looks splendid in his.

[Tartan Tess]

If your going to be wearing it outside at summer events, linen would be cooler.

[Pleater]

linen would be very washable - and it sheds stains too, but it does crease terribly.

The back of the skirt of the coat looks to be very full, so a heavy wool might not be comfortable, nor would it fall into folds as readily as a lighter one - plus if it got wet it would be so heavy.

A soft stuff like flannel would not do, I think - a fairly firm weave in a medium weight wool should give a good effect. Possibly 10 oz fabric if it is lined and interfaced.

You might find that the weight of period garments is rather a surprise after modern dress - even 'proper' kilts don't really prepare one for the shock of the old.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

[Chris 03]

I am not sure about which pattern is appropriate for Jacobite but wool for a jacket would have been more prevalent than linnen as you have to consider the damp northern climate. As a reenactor I have worn wool for days on end in cold and wet conditions and it is much more comfortable than linnen (still keeps you warm and dries faster).

As to the type of wool, you want coat weight wool. If you want the top of the line stuff go to Kochan and Phillips available through Najecki http://www.najecki.com/repro/Contents.html. Other sources include 96 District Trading Co and lots of other vendors... I would suggest asking them for coat weight wool of which there are many choices. I would also suggest lining the jacket with linnen.

Make sure to do a mock up of your coat with cheap fabric or just do it with the lining material so that you can ensure everything fits right. Coat weight wool is expensive.

The period look for mid 18th century is well fitted clothing even for poor folks... Labor was cheap, cloth was very expensive and well tailored clothing used far less fabric and lasted longer.

[Mr.Charles Anthony]

Readers; This writer has been making 'period cloathes' for decades, and concurs with the above advice. I have found that much of Jas.Towsend & Sons items must be looked over with care, so I would try for another pattern for the waistcoat. JC Ryan has some good ones. Beware, all the original weskits & coats, share the same neckline as the shirt. Many of the modern patterns have the neck hole too deep(that is a left-over from the bi-centennial, when they used a modern vest pattern to make a 1775 weskit pattern). You will have to re-draw the neck opening-easy to do, if you need advice, PM me. And most certainly , make up the all the garments in 'junk fabric' BEFORE YOU BUILD THE GOOD COAT & WESKIT! A tailors dummy in your size is also a big help, if you get lay hands to one.
Kilted Tailor

[hylander]

A few more patterns from the same site:

http://store.reconstructinghistory.c...reat-kilt.html

http://store.reconstructinghistory.c...ll-outfit.html

http://store.reconstructinghistory.c...or-outfit.html

[Mr.Charles Anthony]

Readers; I concure with 'hylander'; these are good patterns, I like the first & last ones, for the expected use. The patterns are pricey, but have a good reputation in the 'living history community'. By the pattern notes, I would absolutely say, make up a cheap copy first. And do post some photos of the project as it goes along. The coat looks like it could be used in a circa 2013 setting; for ensample, a white linen summer coat.
Kilted Tailor