I visited last year and also loved it. Not for the Dracula connection, but the fish restaurants. Not just fish and chips, but all sorts of fresh fish almost as plentiful as in a French port but sold completely without pretension. It bought a couple of oysters from a stall that elsewhere would have been selling burgers.

The centre of the town is hopeless for driving a car. I parked in the suburbs on top of the cliff to walk to my hotel.

(I'm more interested in Bede than Dracula, but it takes all sorts to make up a kilt wearing world.)