Pleating to the stripe advice

**TheOfficialBren** · 13th July 13, 12:21 PM

Originally Posted by RockyR

The issue with pleating ROBERTSON to the White Stripe is that the white stripe only appears once per sett (which is roughly 10 to 14" wide on this tartan since it's an ABAC sett), whereas the MacKenzie has the white stipe appear twice per sett (and the red stripe only once). In Robertson, the Red Stripe appears every half sett, which is why most kiltmakers can pleat to that one.

If you MUST have it pleated to the white stripe, you have 3 options:

1. Use twice as much cloth... roughly 14 - 15 yards (which is pretty ridiculous... this was said tongue in cheek)
2. Pleat to the white stripe, but use HALF as many pleats and they'll be twice as wide. Each pleat would be roughly 1.75" wide and would be twice as deep as a normal pleat, but you'd only have 12 to 15 pleats.
3. Pleat to alternating "stripes" of White on one pleat, then the blank section of navy on the next pleat, then back to the white stripe. This will give the same affect as suggestion 2, but will have twice as many pleats.

Rocky, what about pleating it to the block? I have seen this done on other tartans and your opinion is valued.

**Jordan** · 13th July 13, 12:53 PM

Originally Posted by StevieR

Yeah. Obviously not, if you read it out loud to the missus! Red stripe it is - unless I'm talked out of it tomorrow!

Just make sure your happy with what you decide. I've had a kilt maker try to talk me into doing somthing I wasn't too keen on must because that's how they prefer to do it.

Not that I'm saying Paul would do that!! You just don't want to get your new kilt and not be too happy with how it looks.

**M. A. C. Newsome** · 14th July 13, 01:48 PM

Originally Posted by StevieR

Yes indeed. Thanks guys. I'm certainly choosing hunting ancient, but out of interest Matt, what would be the closest colour match to the early 19th c tartan?

Best possible match would be to have a custom run of the cloth woven by D. C. Dalgliesh in the Wilsons of Bannockburn colors -- and if you really want to go for the authentic look, have them deliver the cloth unfinished ("in the grease").

The closest thing to those colors available from stock would be House of Edgar's muted colors scheme. This is only available in their medium weight cloth (I don't know if that makes a difference to you).

If you are just wanting to limit your options to modern or ancient colors, the modern would be close to what was woven traditionally.

**StevieR** · 14th July 13, 01:55 PM

Cheers Matt. The hare is now running. I had a chat with PH at Harpenden today (whew, it was warm) and he took some measurements and will be sending a sample or two, but I think it's either Marton Mills or Lochcarron in the ancient colours, pleated to the red stripe.

**Liam** · 14th July 13, 02:08 PM

Originally Posted by Jock Scot

Oh I see, you are one of those indecisive types that are not so sure now! Now as a wee suggestion, how about,---------- wait for it! How about, ordering two kilts of the same tartan, one pleated to the stripe and one pleated to the sett?

Just trying to be helpful.

Jock... I expect you will be ordering one pleated to stripe right away.....

Actually, while they are different, I find them equally attractive to the eye!

Slainte...Bill

**Liam** · 14th July 13, 02:11 PM

Originally Posted by Jordan

Just make sure your happy with what you decide. I've had a kilt maker try to talk me into doing somthing I wasn't too keen on must because that's how they prefer to do it.

Not that I'm saying Paul would do that!! You just don't want to get your new kilt and not be too happy with how it looks.

I would also suggest asking your better half/partner what they prefer, as they will be looking at it while you never will!

**Jock Scot** · 14th July 13, 02:19 PM

Originally Posted by Liam

Jock... I expect you will be ordering one pleated to stripe right away.....

Actually, while they are different, I find them equally attractive to the eye!

Slainte...Bill

I know you have only said that in jest and fair enough.

For what it is worth I really dislike pleats to the stripe with civilian kilts, they just look too busy to my eyes. I have to say, the same applies to the military kilt too, but I can understand the military need for swish, swagger and flash. So in my view, pleats to the stripe are best left to the military.

**rmccool** · 16th July 13, 10:20 AM

Well, my infantry days are long gone, now... but I'm a fan of pleating to the stripe for many (though not all) tartans. Some tartans do indeed look too "busy" when pleated to the stripe, but for many, it can be quite attractive.

**RockyR** · 16th July 13, 12:37 PM

Originally Posted by TheOfficialBren

Rocky, what about pleating it to the block? I have seen this done on other tartans and your opinion is valued.

The following is my opinion and others WILL disagree with it. At the risk of being burned at the stake as a witch, I submit the following:

I am not a fan of pleating to the 'block'. I coined the term "the lawn chair effect" 7 or 8 years ago to describe to customers how this looks when pleated up. It looks like the straps of a lawn chair from the 70's or 80's going flat across your back side. NOT flattering or the best way to show off your tartan IMHO. Others will disagree.

On a tartan such as Robertson Hunting, the only 'block' is the block of Navy Blue. Since THAT only appears once every sett (the same as the red stripe), it would be difficult to pleat to the block section of this tartan for the same reasons it would be difficult to pleat to the red stripe.

**StevieR** · 16th July 13, 10:51 PM

I've been hunting high and low for a decent picture of a Robertson Hunting pleated to the red stripe. Guess where I found it?

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/s...t=33346&page=3

Ancient tartan for me, but that's it.

Sorry Chas, but hypnotism is obviously not your forte.

Bren - is this the one for you?