You say "standard" knife pleat but this type of fabric does not lend itself to the stretching and shaping described in Barb T's book (apron edges, for example).
Will you use the selvedge for hem, or have to fold/stitch it? The thicker that hem gets, the more difficult to keep pleats in place. Do you plan to edge-stitch the pleats or just rely on pressing?
I've made several kilts from non-trad fabric, including wide-wale corduroy and a somewhat heavy sueded fabric. Because I had to hem it anyway, I tended to work with cuts made selvedge-to-selvedge, joining several lengths ("widths") to get the amount needed. One trick I used was to cut the overapron piece about 3 inches wider than the others and line it up even with the others at the hem end. Then I could fold an A-shaped apron, make the deep reverse pleat, and still be able to catch the top edge of reverse pleat at the waistband. Otherwise you have to lift the inner edge of reverse pleat upward, which creates wrinkles in the fabric. I used the hem depth to compensate for the reverse pleat dipping below apron hem, as Barb describes.
By the time you fold up all that material and start sewing nylon webbing at the waist, I hope you've got a workhorse machine! It certainly can be done and looking forward to pictures/progress.
Proudly Duncan [maternal], MacDonald and MacDaniel [paternal].
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