Great Kilts and their prices

**keclea** · 28th October 13, 12:25 PM

Hi,

As I've been looking over different kilt websites, I've noticed that the prices that a lot of these websites are charging for their great kilts are as much as for their bespoke kilts. I find it hard to understand, as the great kilt is simply a length of fabric, typically 4.5 yards long. I purchased mine by the yard (4 yards) from an Amish fabric store, and it is lovely 100% wool black-watch plaid. I paid $100 for it. A lot of the kilt websites are charging around $500 for their great kilts. I understand the bespoke kilts being expensive as you are paying for the expertise in workmanship in addition to the fabric. I bought my tartan six years ago, so not sure if prices have changed much since then, but some of the more reasonable websites today are charging $60/yard. Even at that price, you would pay $280 with shipping for a great kilt. (That is still a good deal less than $500).

**bonnie heather** · 29th October 13, 04:44 AM

That's great that you were able to get the Black Watch woolen fabric at a good price. If you've been wrapping and gathering the cloth around yourself, that's great.
I don't know what other kiltmakers do, but I was taught to measure, plan and fold the pleats, hand stitch the pleats at the waist with several rows of heavy thread, sew 5 or 6 belt loops onto the back, make fringe on the vertical edges, and sew leather ties to the aprons at the waist to help keep the kilt in place before putting on a belt. It takes several hours to make that way, but it doesn't take as much time as making a hand sewn traditional knife pleated kilt.
You could do that yourself, if you wanted to. My teacher, Ann Stewart, usually used 5 yards double width tartan from Scotland. The cost of the tartan would be the bigger expense.

**keclea** · 29th October 13, 05:10 AM

Thanks Bonnie! That does explain it some. On the websites I have seen, I did not see any mention of handstitching anything to make the great kilt go on faster. It is usually advertised as a big piece of cloth. :-) And the volume of fabric did occur to me after I made the post. A five yard great kilt would use twice as much fabric as a five yard casual kilt.

**Kennedy** · 30th October 13, 07:36 PM

The Black Watch fabric you purchased at an Amish store may not be the actual tartan that kiltmakers use. Black Watch is one of the most common tartans and is frequently woven by companies other than the authentic tartan weavers. It may have the authentic BW setting, and it may be a quality wool, but does it have the "kilting" selvage? Is the weave the same as is used in tartans? Back in the early 1970s I purchased some Kennedy tartan made by Lochcarron of Scotland. It was about $10 or more per yard back then when cotton fabric was about $2 per yard. Quality cotton quilting fabric is priced between $10 and $12 per yard now. The prices that are charged for quality tartan fabric are well within reason. Go ahead and enjoy your Black Watch whether it is authentic tartan or regular woollen fabric woven in the Black Watch sett. Be aware that sometime a member of the "Tartan Police" might tell you that what you have isn't "authentic."

**unixken** · 30th October 13, 10:26 PM

Additionally, it's worth noting the type of weave used to create your Amish-woven fabric. I understand twill weaves generally hold a pleat pressing better than plain or basket weaves. The usual battery of tartan mills use a twill weave for their tartan fabrics. Your Amish weaver may or may not.

**kiltedrennie** · 31st October 13, 10:45 AM

I picked up what is often referred to a bastard tartan off the red tag sales rack for $6/yard last year. Nearly eight yards long and 57" wide. It's square weave, but it made a nice great kilt for a renaissance fair costume.

I cheater pleated mine as suggested by Bonnie. I carefully pleated (and re-pleated) until I had the right look, sewed the pleats down, steeked down some cloth to the inside back for stability, and added some velcro to fasten it. With the belt on and the draped cloth you can't see the stitching or velcro. I didn't press the pleats. I wanted it to look like a hand pleated kilt.

The cost probably has more to do with the quality of fabric as Kennedy suggests (or at least I hope it does).

**Kennedy** · 31st October 13, 07:17 PM

There is a place for for both types of wool. It makes sense to use the "bastard" Black Watch for for a renaissance faire costume. In some cases it makes much more sense to use the less (very much less) expensive cloth. Renaissance faire clothing? Your choice was quite appropriate for the situation.

When you get down to it - there are good reasons for the difference in price between woolen fabrics, and for the difference in prices of kilts. The quality of the fiber and the quality of weaving also make a difference in the price. When it comes to the price of the kilt itself - the quality of the fabric used and the quality of workmanship all factor in.

$60 per yard of quality tartan - a reasonable price. Hundreds of dollars for a fine quality hand-made kilt - reasonable considering that if you care for it properly, it will last for a long time.

$6.00 per yard woolen fabric - I would love to get some of that (assuming it is 100% wool and not a blend). It would be a great fabric for felting and making a felted wool quilt! I haven't ever made a quilt of felted wool, but it is something that I would like to try. (And that $60 wool would not felt well due to the high quality of the fiber.)

Originally Posted by kiltedrennie

I picked up what is often referred to a bastard tartan off the red tag sales rack for $6/yard last year. Nearly eight yards long and 57" wide. It's square weave, but it made a nice great kilt for a renaissance fair costume.

I cheater pleated mine as suggested by Bonnie. I carefully pleated (and re-pleated) until I had the right look, sewed the pleats down, steeked down some cloth to the inside back for stability, and added some velcro to fasten it. With the belt on and the draped cloth you can't see the stitching or velcro. I didn't press the pleats. I wanted it to look like a hand pleated kilt.

The cost probably has more to do with the quality of fabric as Kennedy suggests (or at least I hope it does).

**kiltedrennie** · 1st November 13, 10:20 AM

Originally Posted by Kennedy

$6.00 per yard woolen fabric - I would love to get some of that (assuming it is 100% wool and not a blend). It would be a great fabric for felting and making a felted wool quilt! I haven't ever made a quilt of felted wool, but it is something that I would like to try. (And that $60 wool would not felt well due to the high quality of the fiber.)

Alas! It was only 70% wool. Still, for the intended purpose and price it couldn't be beat.

**keclea** · 4th November 13, 12:59 PM

Thanks for all the interesting responses. The fabric I have is 100% wool. It is hard to say of what "caliber" the fibers are, but it holds the hand pleating I do very well, and swishes pleasingly when I walk in it. And Kennedy is correct, I do enjoy it, and have little care for what the "tartan police" might think. I'm sure the aforementioned police cringe at the idea that the men's utility skirts are being called "kilts", though I consider the offense misplaced, at the word "kilt" is derived from "kilting up" one's long garments to at or above the knee. (No mentions of pleats or sett.) ;-)