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  1. #51
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    14th February 04
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    Quote Originally Posted by bear@bearkilts.com
    Criticise away! I'll get you started. It takes too long to get a Bear Kilt! What is that bastard doing? Watching Oprah all day?
    Nah, the bum is down at the pub.

  2. #52
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    Returning to the original topic of this thread, I have an 8yd 'Devon Original' kilt in 15oz wool from McCalman Kilts (near Edinburgh). The quality is first class.

    Rob

  3. #53
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    3rd September 04
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    i got now one from geoffrex tailor, edinburgh. seeing the difference to my cheaper only 4 yard kilts i really was astonished about the difference.
    3 of my other kilts are from ebay, but not among those available all the time in dress gordon, mcdonald, mckenzie and so on where belt and sporran are included, but kilts available only in a tartan similar to dress gordon and an unidentifiable blue one. i dont now why they are listended quite rare, they are really well made, cheap, woolen, 4 yard and have a clever pocket on the right side between the two buckles.

    to return to the ancient douglas kilt from geoffrey tailor: i ve to shorten its lenght, but i would have to put 2 in in the inside bottom as i can ´t just cut the less material and finish the selvedge as a kiltmaker. because those handmade kilts, as i suggest, finish wothout a pleat at the bottom. does anybody got experince on how this would change the falling and swinging of the kilt?

    regards

  4. #54
    Join Date
    8th February 04
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    3389 Schuylkill Rd, Spring City, PA 19475
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    If you hem the bottom edge of a kilt, that adds material (it makes it 3 layers thick instead of 1). Since there are 3 layers of material being folded (to make the pleat), not just 1 layer, the hemmed area wants to "kick out" more. The pleats may stay open a bit at the bottom.

  5. #55
    Join Date
    23rd January 04
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    Philadelphia
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    Mychael and Freelander... sorry for the slow response, but I was out of town on a weekend gig.

    I can understand the want for the information too, and I SINCERELY hope that any follow-ups to your inquiries on the public forum will be "civil" and proof-read BEFORE they're posted.

    As for relaying the information and PMs that have gone on here, it's NOT my place to name the companies... as you've stated. You would be amazed at the wide-spread list! Some of the comments were due to an uneducated buyer who was then educated into the kilt style... problem solved.

    Just this weekend, I was able to "sell" a number of kilts to friendly folks at the gigs... and I had no problems with the recommendations (although I'll never get any compensation for the sales).

    For what we're paying for these things, let's hope that the the buyers and makers take it seriously!
    Arise. Kill. Eat.

  6. #56
    Join Date
    1st March 04
    Location
    The downland village of Storrington, West Sussex, United Kingdom (50º 55' 15.42"N 0º 26' 13.44"W)
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    Somehow I seem to have missed this thread from the start, but I see that it has gone off at several tangents during its run, some of which I shall ignore!

    Hand-sewn 8 yarders (or thereabouts): I have five. My Gunn AC (Alex Scott, Aberdeen - 1973), MacIntosh Hunting AC (Unknown pedigree - bought in Charity Shop!), Maple Leaf (Geoffrey Tailor, Edinburgh - 2003), Nithsdale Regional (Geoffrey Tailor, Edinburgh - 2004) and Plain Black Barathea (Geoffrey Tailor, Edinburgh - 2004).

    The hand-stitching on all of them is of superb quality, as is the attention to detail - well worth the additional cost, to my mind.

    Dry-cleaning: I have no hesitation in taking my woollen kilts to the dry-cleaners - but only when necessary (approx once a year, since I treat ALL my kilts with the respect they deserve!). My 1973 Alex Scott kilt is as good as new, although it saw me through years of exhibition and competetive dancing back in the 70s and 80s. It must have been dry-cleaned dozens of times over the years. Its pleats are still knife-edged and are exactly where the kiltmaker put them 31 years ago.

    Before using a dry-cleaner I do not know, I check with them that they are used to handling finely pleated skirts (few will have pressed kilts!).

    Only kiltmakers and dry-cleaners (as far as I know) have the Hoffmann presses, or other special equipment, with which to restore sharp-edged pleats. I do know that my own attempts with a domestic iron and damp pressing cloth are sufficient only to freshen up 'tired' pleats, not to restore them!

    I understand that some of the newer cleaning chemicals can denature the genuine leather straps on our kilts. So, after seeking advice in this place a while back, I condition the leather thoroughly both before and after dry-cleaning. To date: no problems at all.

    Phew!
    [B][I][U]No. of Kilts[/U][/I][/B][I]:[/I] 102.[I] [B]"[U][B]Title[/B]"[/U][/B][/I]: Lord Hamish Bicknell, Laird of Lochaber / [B][U][I]Life Member:[/I][/U][/B] The Scottish Tartans Authority / [B][U][I]Life Member:[/I][/U][/B] The Royal Scottish Country Dance Society / [U][I][B]Member:[/B][/I][/U] The Ardbeg Committee / [I][B][U]My NEW Photo Album[/U]: [/B][/I][COLOR=purple]Sadly, and with great regret, it seems my extensive and comprehensive album may now have been lost forever![/COLOR]/

  7. #57
    Join Date
    23rd January 04
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    Right, then... back to the topic. Sort of.

    The dry cleaning industry in the USA is not regulated as people would think. Traditionally, most dry cleaners have used perchloroethylene, or "perc," a toxic solvent. The majority still do. Tack that with a hot press and your wool breaks-down fast.

    It's good to see another post that "celebrates" the quality of the Scottish Traditional. If you can't trust Hamish with the comparison, who can you trust?

    Wear them proudly! 8)
    Arise. Kill. Eat.

  8. #58
    Join Date
    1st March 04
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    Lincolnshire, England
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hamish
    I understand that some of the newer cleaning chemicals can denature the genuine leather straps on our kilts. So, after seeking advice in this place a while back, I condition the leather thoroughly both before and after dry-cleaning. To date: no problems at all.
    Ham,

    What do you use to condition the leather?

    Did you ask Howie about this potential problem? If so, what was his answer?

    Rob

  9. #59
    Join Date
    3rd September 04
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    Austria / Europe
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    thx rockyR for ur answer. and is it possible to make another finish to my bottom edge; i suggest cutting the less material and then sew by machine, but it won´t look good i think.

    ham what is the procedure when restoring pleats; i understood that they could only be refreshed by my own iron? and how is the hoffmann press working?
    even if i don t nknow this one, i m sure not to find one in central europe

  10. #60
    Join Date
    23rd January 04
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    Quote Originally Posted by mcnice
    i ve to shorten its lenght, but i would have to put 2 in in the inside bottom as i can ´t just cut the less material and finish the selvedge as a kiltmaker.
    Simply go to a sewing store an buy "Selvidge Tape". You'll need to iron it to the bottom of the material on the inside (where you want to place the hem length). Then it's as simple as cutting a straight line for the bottom of the kilt. This works BEST on wool, and is pretty-good for other materials. Once ironed in... it disappears into the fibers.

    Basically, it seals the wool where you're cutting, and prevents fraying. It's a simple procedure that anyone can do, and one that the Scots have used for YEARS with alterations.
    Arise. Kill. Eat.

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