Sewing machine advice wanted

[ratspike]

Harvey, you're absolutely correct. Walking feet are great, and for some fabrics practically a requirement. Pfaff's IDT system is fantastic, and of course there's always the option to use a walking foot attachment on most any domestic machine. Industrial machines like the Juki 1541 are workhorses for bag making, outdoor, and tactical gear. Fabric like Cordura, Xpac, and silnylon is slippery stuff, and can be a PITA to sew without a walking foot.

[The Wizard of BC]

It is true that you can buy a walking foot attachment for many machines. And it is also true that some fabrics really need to keep both the top and bottom fabrics aligned because they are slippery or you are sewing something special or specific.

But the OP's question was asking for suggestions for a machine for kiltmaking. A dedicated walking foot machine is a waste of time and money for sewing two or three layers of Poly/Cotton. It is slower, more complicated, costs more initially and for repairs. A dedicated walking foot machine is simply not needed for working with kilt fabrics. If there would be times you need a walking foot an attachment is a good way to go.
But I still advise against buying a dedicated walking foot machine for kiltmaking. The only time I can imagine someone would NEED a walking foot is if they are doing blind fell stitching.

[HarveyH]

It is true that you can buy a walking foot attachment for many machines. And it is also true that some fabrics really need to keep both the top and bottom fabrics aligned because they are slippery or you are sewing something special or specific.

But the OP's question was asking for suggestions for a machine for kiltmaking. A dedicated walking foot machine is a waste of time and money for sewing two or three layers of Poly/Cotton. It is slower, more complicated, costs more initially and for repairs. A dedicated walking foot machine is simply not needed for working with kilt fabrics. If there would be times you need a walking foot an attachment is a good way to go.
But I still advise against buying a dedicated walking foot machine for kiltmaking. The only time I can imagine someone would NEED a walking foot is if they are doing blind fell stitching.

Steve. I made the point because general sewing machine technology is advancing. Anyone reading your post might actually be put off buying a Pfaff general sewing machine as they are including their IDT (integrated dual feed) system in almost all their new machines. Not a separate walking foot attachment, but integral to the way the machines sew.

As you note, a walking foot can be useful not just for leather (as you originally stated), but also for lightweight and slippery fabrics, so if someone wanted to make a kilt and a shirt and pehaps a silk sash for their partner, a system like Pfaff's would be really useful. Also for a less confident sewer, like myself, having anything which helps hold the fabric in place when there is simply so much cloth to manage is a definite advantage. I know Pfaff are not an advertiser here but I hope you will forgive the addition of a link to their explanation of this: http://www.pfaff.com/kr/2208.html.

Certainly using it to sew denim and canvas is really good and given the not everbody on this forum is working with finest worsted wool cloth, some recognition of what might be useful to the general sewer, who also wants to make a kilt, might be helpful.

[ratspike]

I have a late model computerized Pfaff with IDT, an Ambition Essential. I've sewn probably 75 kilts with it, along with bags and other stuff. It's a fantastic machine for general sewing tasks but honestly, there are better choices for the sort of use that's been discussed here. The biggest problem with the model I have is the unbelievably low presser foot height. I've had something like 15 layers of fabric under it, and it took serious effort. The needle plate was soft aluminum that I was constantly bending back into shape. I only used it for as long as I did because I just didn't want to deal with replacing it.

For making the occasional kilt I think a swanky computerized machine is just fine. For serious work though, IMO, it's the wrong tool. My 40 year old mechanicals get the job done much more easily than the Pfaff ever did. And anyway, it's a shame to abuse a well made tool by using it for something it was never designed to do.

As far as walking feet and kiltmaking goes, I don't feel that they're necessary. I only suggested one to the OP because he mentioned wanting to make outdoor gear, in which case a walking foot would probably make his sewing life a lot easier.

[Stoff]

Now for a word from a sewing machine Luddite. I use and prefer my 1912 Singer treadle sewing machine. I can still get parts for her and she still runs like a champ. It was a gift from my in-laws, who knew I had been wanting one (it had been my wife's grandmother's machine). I also have an old Nechi school room machine (that I bought new) and a serger. I still prefer the treadle machine and have never had any problem sewing anything that I can get under the pressure foot.

Just my two cents worth.

Stoff

[ASinclair]

Now for a word from a sewing machine Luddite. I use and prefer my 1912 Singer treadle sewing machine. I can still get parts for her and she still runs like a champ. It was a gift from my in-laws, who knew I had been wanting one (it had been my wife's grandmother's machine). I also have an old Nechi school room machine (that I bought new) and a serger. I still prefer the treadle machine and have never had any problem sewing anything that I can get under the pressure foot.

Just my two cents worth.

Stoff

Hello, Stoff!

from a bit west of you.

If you have not already done so, you may want to introduce yourself in the Newbie forum.

[Stitchwiz]

Sounds like we have from beginners to experienced pros discussing sewing machines in this thread.
My comment is for the new sewers or someone buying a first machine.

It was my 93 year old 'sewing guy' who taught me how to clean and oil my machines around the time I started high school - he is still working in the same store he opened about 60 years ago! He has parts going back over 100 years, and a stack of manuals so high that he has to use a step ladder to see the ones on top.
He told me to forget the original oil and use transmission oil. Transmission oil has better viscosity than other oils and doesn't break down like the other oil. My (6) machines are quieter than any others I've used over the years! Some of my machines are ancient - early 1900s Singer treadle, right up to a machine from 1980 (purchased new). The proof is in the pudding - all of these machines have been well used, but they still stitch beautifully and quietly. The only major repair I've had was a pressure foot which had a worn out contact inside a sealed unit - on the youngest machine!

The most heavy duty home machine I have is a 1949 Pfaff 322 - older than I am. I have sewn 12 layers of heavy duty denim, no problem. Two layers of cowhide to make a ¼" thick belt, no problem. The presser foot sits at ⅜" in the up position & lifts a little higher to allow thicker items to be slid under the foot. It goes from a free arm to a flatbed in a moment. Everything is attached. It can do 80+ fancy stitches which I haven't needed to use, they are mechanical and built in. Nothing to lose and no computers here.
With a motor rated for 1.2 amps that actually goes to 1.5 amps, I have power. I can sew all day long and I do. I am sure once I get into machine sewing a kilt, I will have no problem. If it can sew heavy duck coveralls and parkas, it can handle a kilt. I have never bent anything more than a needle when I hit a pin. This is one TOUGH machine. I have tried almost every make of home machine, but this one is the toughest I've used and this is my 'go to' machine.

The industrial machines are super tough and FAST! They are more expensive, heavy to move but will last forever in a home setting. Just don't plan on rearranging your sewing room very often. Does your sewing machine repairman make house calls?

Do a Sewing Machine Test Drive:
Put together a variety of fabrics: silky smooth fabrics, cotton broadcloth, wool like you will use in your kilts, denim, leather - whatever you plan on sewing. Take large samples of these with you when you check out a machine. Try them all. Roll up denim into a tube and flatten it so you will have about 8-10 layers. Stitch down the length of the roll to see if it can handle it. If the thread breaks, try the leather needle. Be careful when you get to the leather, few machines can handle leather.
Take a few sewing machine needles, one for leather (and a slot screwdriver, in case the screw is tight). If any stitches are skipping, or it makes a 'plunk, plunk' noise, replace the needle.
Take 2 spools of contrasting thread. Test the stitching with different colours top and bottom - the stitches should lock between two layers of fabric.
Ask about the manual, bobbins, extra feet & attachments, other sewing tools - tailor's ham, sleeve roll, clapper, mannequin, tailoring tools etc. If they are selling the machine, they probably won't need these specific tools and you do.
Check the finish for wear - the less the better. Most sewers use lots of pins which scratch the finish.

Once you buy your machine, get it serviced by your sewing machine serviceman. He will fine tune it & it will be just like new! This will cost $65-$100. Have him show you how to clean and oil it. You will save $ doing it yourself. He can also show you how to adjust it. There are probably all kinds of features/tricks that he can show you.
Plan on a checkup for your machine when you get your annual checkup (saves time remembering when to get it done). This will head off any issues with excess wear & tear without doing any serious harm if you've missed any lubrication points. After that, service it every few years or if you have a problem. Cheap insurance.

The most critical things to know:
Lubricate the the race which holds the thread bobbin, every day that you sew, just a few drops needed. Use transmission oil, you can buy this at an automotive store - better for machine & cheaper by volume than the universal oil sold at sewing store!
Clean & oil your machine regularly - depending on how much you sew. I do my 2 regular machines every month or more often if they look dirty or get noisy - they are working 40-100 hours a month (that's the average annual use for most domestic machines). Steve's industrial machines do 40+ hours a week. All 6 of mine are cleaned every year, even if they haven't been used. Servicing is done every 2 years, or whenever needed.
Change your needle with every new project - they are cheap and are the most frequent cause of skipped or irregular stitches. Buy on sale or in bulk. Schmetz has an excellent guide for when to use each type of needle.
Use good quality thread. Good thread comes on sale at the same prices as the cheap stuff. Shop the specials. You deserve the best because your work will last a lifetime.

Hope this helps you on your adventure into kiltmaking!

Happy Stitching!

[brewerpaul]

There are some great kilt makers here that have added quite a bit of information to sift through. As professionals they need the best they can get because it gets used full time and has to perform. For us mere mortals it is more finding good machines that will do what we want. I am an experienced beginner at sewing but have gained loads of great knowledge from this site. For me a sewing machine is a tool like my wood working equipment. I want qualiity and few bells and whistles. The more computerized you get the more you can have go wrong in my mind. Though I am saving the tartan fabric I have for hand sewing a kilt or two I have done some extensive work on thicker weights of wool tweed, wool suiting and other fabrics. My machines were fortunate finds on shopgoodwill and they have been work horses. Below is a couple of photos.

My old "boat anchor" Dressmaker machine. Does straight sticth only but for the heavy wool, multiple layers, some leather and top stitching it is fantastic. There are times I have to turn the wheel by hand but that is because of the thickness and the fact I want to be careful of my stitches.



THe other score was a simple Brother with maybe 10-12 stitches. Nothing fancy and simple buttons holes when needed. I use this on more delicate fabric, shirt making and lighter wool.



Jennifer has a nice Janome machine that has 12 stitches also. I use it when over at her house. We also have a Janome serger that was great to use when I made a dozen fleece pullover tops for a bunch of kids this past holidays. I think it comes to what are your needs, how much you want to spend and if one machine wont do it all, buy another one that will fill in the gaps.

Here are just a couple of the things I have run through my machines.

Tweed hunting vest with quilted lining. The quilted lining is from JoAnn's and makes the vest quite warm.



My Inverness cape. This had heavyweight wool houndstooh tweed outer fabric, suiting weight wool lining and a middle lining of breathable nylon to block the wind. The nylon is sandwiched between the coat weight and suiting wool. Putting the cape, caplet and collar together was a test of the old Dressmaker. I used a needle for sewing leather for that part.



Mainly the equipment is as good as the person using it in most cases. With sewing machines, like any tool, you can get cheap garbage that wont work well for anything. Shop around and get the best you can use and learn every trick you can learn as well. And most of all "Have Fun"

[Benning Boy]

I went ahead and bought the White sewing machine. All the original accessories and manual are with it. It wasn't used much, since new in 1969, mostly to make kids PJs and other light projects. It was originally an anniversary present. The recipient wasn't much interested in sewing. It was recently serviced. Runs quiet and smooth. There's a video about this model on Youtube showing the machine stitching through 14 layers of blend fabric.

I'm mostly interested in making X-kilts and similar things, and making ultralight weight camping gear for one last adventure. I want to loose more weight before getting high quality kilts. I may have to hire it done, unless I can find at a reasonable price a heavy duty machine to do the sewing myself. I lack the dexterity to hand sew a kilt.

The Pfaff 6 is also mine. It's way obsolete, can find next to nothing out about it. However one website describes it as heavy duty. It only does a straight stitch. It's probably going to need work, if it's possible to get that done now.

My ex was a super seamstress. She worked for a tailor for a while. She did some heavy sewing on a medium priced (at the time) Burnina. Based on recollection I think the White should capacity for most of what I want to do.

[Pleater]

After finding some gun oil being sole off cheaply I used it on my knitting machines, and then on everything. It cleans and lubricates very well and there is no longer the same smell - it is usually inside the case of every machine I open up for a service or repair.

My Passap machines have never been stripped down, even though it is the standard advice to everyone on the knitting machine lists - the oil changed the brown needles to shiny, dissolved away the gunk, so no need to disturb the original construction as done by experts.

There are, however, two different types of design for sewing machines, one requires thick oil to fill up the gaps, the other a thin one as the tolerances are less. Use a thick oil on a machine requiring thin and it feels sluggish, vice versa and the machine rattles excessively.

Anne the Pleater :ootd: