Kilt Height

**cainam** · 31st March 14, 12:58 PM

After much deliberation I am about to pull the trigger and order my first 8 yard tartan kilt. However, I'm a bit undecided about the construction in terms of kilt height and the number of straps. At the moment I have a 5 yard tweed kilt which is worn around the waist and I'm very comfortable with that but I have in the past worn hired kilts above the naval.

If I had to choose though I do prefer to wear the kilt around the waist. Other than it being traditional, what are the advantages if any of wearing the kilt higher and should I have the kilt made to be worn around the naval. Also, does the 3rd strap around the hip make a lot of difference. Aesthetically I think 2 straps look better.

Thanks,
Simon

**Father Bill** · 31st March 14, 01:01 PM

Well... what do you define as your waist? ...your hips? If you bend over to one side and put your finger where the wrinkles come, that's your waist. Talk to your kiltmaker. Some build them for either height with as many straps as you want, but it's always useful to use the right terminology (waist) when you're discussing it.

**ShaunMaxwell** · 31st March 14, 01:16 PM

I tend to think that two straps is plenty... The third is extraneous and doesn't serve much purpose.

**cainam** · 31st March 14, 01:42 PM

When I say my waist I mean my trouser line which for me is the top of my hips.

**Father Bill** · 31st March 14, 02:09 PM

Originally Posted by cainam

When I say my waist I mean my trouser line which for me is the top of my hips.

That's good to know... but it's not your natural waist, and to kiltmakers that makes a really big difference.

**ratspike** · 31st March 14, 02:55 PM

I don't know that's there's any functional advantage to wearing a kilt at your natural waist. It would be the proper, traditional way to have it made, if that's important to you. If it's not, and if you already know you find it comfortable to wear your kilts at your jeans waist, then I think you should go with what you know. Definitely have this discussion with your kiltmaker and be sure that you're both on the page.

As far as buckles, I think a lower rise kilt looks much better with only one buckle on the right. The shorter fell looks a little crowded to my eye with two straps.

**HarveyH** · 31st March 14, 02:59 PM

You ask if there are advantages to the traditional high rise of a kilt. I believe there are because the kilt then sits on the natural waist and in the curve of the spine. This helps it stay where you want it.

I personally tend to wear a kilt with a waistcoat and prefer that to a kilt belt - so the high rise also ensures that the whole look works. But that is my style and preference.

Howie at 21st Century kilts has, in particular, made the modern trouser waist kilt a fashionable alternative. It can look really good, but not for me.

You also ask about buckles and straps. The origin appears to be when kilts, particularly military kilts were worn much higher than even a traditional kilt is now. The third buckle was then essentially at what would now be waist height and kept the kilt closed. The third buckle now does not serve that function and is essentially a decorative addition. Many people like them but not essential. I only have two buckles on all my kilts. Again down to personal preference.

As for the waist measurements, you will find a number of threads on here where the question of how to find the true waist is discussed. But it really is a discussion to have with your kilt maker. As a general rule the true waist is slightly larger than the normal trouser waist, but that is simply to do with where the measurements are taken and may not actually be the measurement of the kilt. Every kilt maker seems to have a slightly different way of doing these measurements - so I think it's more of an art than science.

**Nathan** · 31st March 14, 03:44 PM

The advantage to me to having a high rise kilt is that I never have the awful bit of shirt peeking out from below my waistcoat. If you wear your kilt at your hips, a PC won't look smart. That said, if you go this route, you can always wear the black argyll with a dirk belt for a less formal black tie look and avoid the problem.

**ASinclair** · 31st March 14, 04:31 PM

Some say if you dance (Highland) or do athletics the second strap keeps the apron from flying open. Other than that, it's decorative, as others have said.

**The Wizard of BC** · 31st March 14, 06:30 PM

There is one more thing you should consider and that is the position of the bottom of the Fell of your kilt.

The Fell is the area of the kilt in the back that is sewn down and tapered. The bottom of the Fell should hit you right at the crest or largest part of your hips and butt.

This is also very close to where your leg/hip joint is. To see if your kilt is fitting where it was designed to fit reach your hand around back and slide your fingers up the pleats till you feel where they begin to be sewn down. If you find that this is lower than the crest of the butt your kilt is being worn too low.

Almost all traditional kilts are made with the bottom of the Fell positioned assuming that the top strap is being fastened at the Natural waist. If the kilt is being worn lower than it was designed the bottom of the Fell is now in the wrong place and will cause the pleats to either splay open or hang in shower curtain folds.

Now, to find your natural waist - open your hand and place your finger tips along your spine and your thumb at your side just below the ribs.
Now bend into your thumb. You should feel your thumb go into a hollow. That is your natural waist. This is usually up about kidney level or just above the 'love handles'.

You can of course wear a kilt, that is designed to be worn at the natural waist, lower if you choose, but know and understand what that will do to the look of your kilt.