Enlarged Sett

[McMurdo]

I wonder, can new 22 ounce wool "blanketweave" tartan be obtained these days?

I did a quick google search and found that House Labhran has some Regimental tartan

http://www.houseoflabhran.com/scotti...nta/index.html

[figheadair]

I wonder, can new 22 ounce wool "blanketweave" tartan be obtained these days?

Simple answer - no. The military weight Jock mentioned was the MOD issue cloth made from a Cross Cheviot fleece. Modern tartan is woven from a different breed so even if woven at the same weight its 'handle' would be different.

Until the formation of the RRS military tartan was made by a couple of mills in Scotland; notably Robert Noble who wove the kilt cloth and Dalgliesh who used to weave some of the Officers' trews weight cloth. I have no idea would weaves the current cloth but on the formation of the RRS there was the fuss that it was to be woven outside Scotland, possibly even the UK.

Nobles still weave tartan but it looks like they only produce 11 oz cloth now.

[Jock Scot]

Thanks chaps for your answers to my question.

[Nathan]

Simple answer - no. The military weight Jock mentioned was the MOD issue cloth made from a Cross Cheviot fleece. Modern tartan is woven from a different breed so even if woven at the same weight its 'handle' would be different.

Until the formation of the RRS military tartan was made by a couple of mills in Scotland; notably Robert Noble who wove the kilt cloth and Dalgliesh who used to weave some of the Officers' trews weight cloth. I have no idea would weaves the current cloth but on the formation of the RRS there was the fuss that it was to be woven outside Scotland, possibly even the UK.

Nobles still weave tartan but it looks like they only produce 11 oz cloth now.

I was discussing the Regimental weight with the kiltmaker for the Cape Breton Highlanders just last week. I'll follow up with her and ask where she sources the tartan and if it is the same hand as the vintage kilts she works on.

[McMurdo]

Speaking of Large Setts I thought I would put this here, there is so much here to emulate.

[Tobus]

Hey Kyle, something that occurred to me... Have you considered a tartan tweed fabric for this project? I know a while back we had a thread about tartan tweed kilts, and possibly even some information on custom tartan patterns that could be woven in tweed, although my search-fu is pretty weak. All I've been able to come up with are dead links. I know there are some popular tartan tweeds that have been woven in rather large setts (like Gunn and Hunting MacLeod, which seem to come up easily on a Google search for tartan tweed).

I distinctly remember someone mentioning a tweed mill that would do special tartan runs, but for the life of me I can't find any information on it!

My thinking, though, is that it might be easier to get a larger sett with tweed due to the nature of tweed as opposed to a standard wool tartan fabric. Not to mention, the lovely coarse nature of tweed might be a wonderful complement to a larger sett in terms of aesthetics. For example, here's a kilt that Matt Newsome made in tweed. I'm unsure of the tartan (MacPherson?) or the source of the cloth, but it seems that the sett size is much larger than usual. I'm wondering if perhaps there's a case to be made for getting your tartan made out of tweed to get a larger sett size without having to alter the proportions. I'm not enough of a tweed expert to know if this is realistic, but perhaps it's worth an enquiry through Barb T. to see if she might be able to come up with a supplier willing to do a run like this? (Though a minimum yardage will surely apply.)

[Barb T]

Just remember that the same problems arise with pleating, regardless of the fabric.

[Liam]

Speaking of Large Setts I thought I would put this here, there is so much here to emulate.

Lovely looking outfit, however the front apron doesn't look centered, to my eye. Perhaps when actually worn it would appear different.

[creagdhubh]

Speaking of Large Setts I thought I would put this here, there is so much here to emulate.

Excellent photo, Glen! I've always loved this image of the late Duke of Windsor's Highland Dress.

Cheers,

[creagdhubh]

Lovely looking outfit, however the front apron doesn't look centered, to my eye. Perhaps when actually worn it would appear different.

I think the kilt may have been incorrectly positioned on the mannequin that way. I'm sure just a simple "twist" of the kilt to center the sett would do the trick!