How an Engineer lays out pleats

[Barb T]

Steve said:

A general rule is that you do not want an element of the Tartan pattern right on the edge of a pleat.

Actually, this isn't true. There are many pleating situations where the best option is to hold a stripe along the edge of a pleat and accommodate the taper entirely on the other side. In the kilt below, the majority of the pleats are done this way in order to preserve the prominent stripes. It's a rare kilt that I lay out that is pleated to the sett and doesn't have at least a few pleats done this way. It's one of the reasons that I don't use a mathematical method for laying out pleats. The arrows below show the stripe that is held along the edge of each pleat.



and a view so that you can see the overall pleating. I'll admit that this kilt is a bit unusual in having so many pleats done this way, but it was absolutely necessary because of how "stripey" the Scott is.