Jacket, waistcoat and kilt in Estate Tweed?

[Nathan]

So I came across 4 yards of double width smart wool tweed at a thrift shop and took it home for $5. I was thinking of either having an 8 yard kilt made from the cloth, or having a jacket, waistcoat and lower yardage kilt made from the cloth but before I go forward, I have a couple of questions for the rabble.

First, this is the cloth:

IMG_20140512_100752 (1).jpg

To my eye, this looks very similar to the tweed featured on the cover of the Scottish Estate Tweeds book. I'm not an estate tweed expert and don't own a copy of the book, but the tweed on the book cover has 7 white blocks and 6 black blocks between the red and my cloth has 8 white 7 black. I don't even know if that distinction is significant.

24015163.jpg

So, my questions are:

1) Is this indeed an estate tweed and, if so, which one?

2) I know tweed kilts are traditional, but how often does one see a whole outfit jacket waistcoat and kilt done in the same tweed pattern? (I've seen some things at 21st Century kilts that I liked along these lines, but that's not really traditional.)

3) Do you know of anyone who both tailors kilts and makes jackets? I know there are shops who will sell me both, but many tend to job out their work. It would be nice to hand the cloth to one tailor who was making all of the garments as I believe he or she would be economical with the cloth that way.

Your expertise is appreciated.

[McMurdo]

My first thought is Burnett's & Struth, they did a jacket for my aunt and I have one of their kilts. They are also somewhat local and getting your measurements to them would not be a problem.

[BCAC]

So I came across 4 yards of double width smart wool tweed at a thrift shop and took it home for $5. I was thinking of either having an 8 yard kilt made from the cloth, or having a jacket, waistcoat and lower yardage kilt made from the cloth but before I go forward, I have a couple of questions for the rabble.

First, this is the cloth:

IMG_20140512_100752 (1).jpg

To my eye, this looks very similar to the tweed featured on the cover of the Scottish Estate Tweeds book. I'm not an estate tweed expert and don't own a copy of the book, but the tweed on the book cover has 7 white blocks and 6 black blocks between the red and my cloth has 8 white 7 black. I don't even know if that distinction is significant.

24015163.jpg

So, my questions are:

1) Is this indeed an estate tweed and, if so, which one?

2) I know tweed kilts are traditional, but how often does one see a whole outfit jacket waistcoat and kilt done in the same tweed pattern? (I've seen some things at 21st Century kilts that I liked along these lines, but that's not really traditional.)

3) Do you know of anyone who both tailors kilts and makes jackets? I know there are shops who will sell me both, but many tend to job out their work. It would be nice to hand the cloth to one tailor who was making all of the garments as I believe he or she would be economical with the cloth that way.

Your expertise is appreciated.

Doesn't Rocky from USA kilts have a complete suit (jacket, vest and kilt) in tweed? I believe so. Or maybe he sold it?

[Nathan]

So, I did a little more digging and I think the tweed on the book cover is the Glenfeshie tweed, seen here:

Glen_Feshie_Check_Ancient_Colours_Pure_New_Wool_15.jpg

But that Glenfeshie looks different from this sample called Glenfeshie:

glenfeshie.jpg

To my eye the first Glenfeshie is quite simila, if not identical to the Aberchalder tweed seen here:

Aberchalder.jpg

Again, none of these examples are identical to mine. The red line being closer together one of the Glenfeshie and Aberchalder and further apart on the other Glenfeshie sample.

The search continues...

[sydnie7]

Unless you're of very small stature, I doubt that 4 yds DW will produce all three pieces (especially considering the need to match pattern at seams). We've talked jacket/waistcoat yardage needs here in the past and IIRC those two will eat up 2.5-3 yards minimum for typical adult size. (My "IIRC" could be wrong, of course.)

And personally, I wouldn't choose that small/busy a pattern for a 3-piece outfit -- the ones I've seen and liked feature a larger, windowpane check but that's all in the eye of the beholder.

Nice score on the fabric, tho!

[Nathan]

Unless you're of very small stature, I doubt that 4 yds DW will produce all three pieces (especially considering the need to match pattern at seams). We've talked jacket/waistcoat yardage needs here in the past and IIRC those two will eat up 2.5-3 yards minimum for typical adult size. (My "IIRC" could be wrong, of course.)

And personally, I wouldn't choose that small/busy a pattern for a 3-piece outfit -- the ones I've seen and liked feature a larger, windowpane check but that's all in the eye of the beholder.

Nice score on the fabric, tho!

So when I cut the four yards, I'm left with 8 yards SW. When you say 2.5 - 3 yards of fabric for a jacket and waistcoat, would that be single or double width? If single, I would have 5 yards leftover for a low yardage kilt.

Regarding the small busy pattern, I might choose a different one if I was choosing from a book, but since I scored this cloth, I think I can make it work for something cool. I don't dislike it.

[Tobus]

I love bold tweed patterns for jackets and waistcoats, but IMHO adding a kilt to that would take it over the top. It would just be too much. If it were me, I'd commission a jacket and waistcoat, and see if the remainder of the cloth would make a suitable day plaid (which could be used whether you're wearing this tweed or not). If it were a more subdued tweed pattern, it might make a smashing "kilt suit" outfit, but this one is perhaps too loud for it. Just my opinion...

As for a maker of both kilts and jackets, you might try contacting Lady Chrystel. She has made some wonderful matching tweed jackets and kilts in the past, which Robert has modeled for us (known here as Ancienne Alliance).

[Nathan]

This is the kind of outfit I had in mind.

[sydnie7]

So when I cut the four yards, I'm left with 8 yards SW. When you say 2.5 - 3 yards of fabric for a jacket and waistcoat, would that be single or double width? If single, I would have 5 yards leftover for a low yardage kilt.

Regarding the small busy pattern, I might choose a different one if I was choosing from a book, but since I scored this cloth, I think I can make it work for something cool. I don't dislike it.

I mean DW. Just as an example, here's a link to a Vogue pattern page for a suit jacket (view A, single breasted with rear side vents). It calls for more than 2 yards DW in all sizes. Yes, a kilt jacket is shorter but you also need to allow for matching pattern -- rule of thumb is an extra 1/4 yard of fabric for that. Another DW yard for a vest and you're down to 1 DW yard left -- enough for Tobus' day plaid?

[Dixiecat]

So when I cut the four yards, I'm left with 8 yards SW. When you say 2.5 - 3 yards of fabric for a jacket and waistcoat, would that be single or double width? If single, I would have 5 yards leftover for a low yardage kilt.

Regarding the small busy pattern, I might choose a different one if I was choosing from a book, but since I scored this cloth, I think I can make it work for something cool. I don't dislike it.

You can have either a kilt OR a jacket/waistcoat combo, but not both. You don't say how wide the tweed is and that width will determine whether you'll get both a jacket and a waistcoat. If it's a Harris tweed it's liable to be narrow and only a jacket can be made.

To give you approx yardage needed for a jacket, measure your torso length (a) and measure your arm length (b), add hem allowances @ 2" per length (c) and add all together and then add up to another yard for matching depending on the pattern.

If your tweed is between 50-60" you can get your layout on what you've calculated, if 45", you might be able, but I would add a yard as a precaution, if less than 45" then you will probably need the entire 4yd length. And all bets are off if you're a gentleman of girth.