Thanks, Bear for responding to the exact situation with more clarity than I'd be likely to muster.

And ggibby, the most important thing to remember is that without paying attention to the pattern and using at least one sett per pleat, you'll end up with something that will look... less than ideal to say the least. And skimping on the depth of the pleats makes the end product much less fun to wear.

[and just a note based on the 'run and return' language of your first post and that of my own: I think we're starting pleating at different ends of the kilt ]