Knife pleated V Box pleated

[piperdbh]

Is there a difference in when the various types of pleating would be used? I'm mainly wondering if one type is considered more formal than another, or if it's really just a matter of whatever the wearer prefers and/or the whim of the kiltmaker.

No, pleating style does not determine fomality of the kilt. The whims of the kiltmaker shouldn't be a factor in a bespoke kilt; each detail should be chosen by the (knowledgable) customer. Kiltmakers who have retail shops (like Rocky and Steve) are free to make kilts however they choose, in hopes that someone will buy them, but if the kiltmaker is making a custom kilt just for you, then he or she will work with you to make exactly the kilt you want.

[Terry1948]

No, pleating style does not determine fomality of the kilt. The whims of the kiltmaker shouldn't be a factor in a bespoke kilt; each detail should be chosen by the (knowledgable) customer. Kiltmakers who have retail shops (like Rocky and Steve) are free to make kilts however they choose, in hopes that someone will buy them, but if the kiltmaker is making a custom kilt just for you, then he or she will work with you to make exactly the kilt you want.

I cannot speak for Rocky at USA Kilts (since I have not yet ordered from him), but Freedom Kilts is a custom kilt maker who also has a retail shop. When I went in to discuss the kilt to be made for my wedding, we reviewed different options for pleating (samples of different pleating styles were presented) and I made the decision on the final selection. I did look at box pleats, and liked them, but finally decided on a knife pleat. My selection was not based on whether one style was more formal than the other, just personal preference for the final appearance.

[Barb T]

I agree with piperdbh - if you are ordering a kilt, you should choose the pleating style you want. Not everyone, though, makes a variety of kilt styles. Virtually all kiltmakers offer a traditional knife-pleated kilt. Some kiltmakers offer other types as well (box, Kingussie, reverse Kingussie, double box). It pays to ask! There is no one "right pleating style" unless you are trying to match a kilt uniform for a pipe band.

The "swish and swing" comes in part from having a boat load of heavy tartan in the back of a kilt. Even for a smallish Highland dancer, the back of the kilt has 4 yards of tartan - yup, 144" of tartan pleated into maybe 18" of kilt pleats) - this can't help but swing and swish. But, personally, I think that pleating style comes into it as well. I would argue that regimental weight tartan pleated in bulky military pleating style doesn't swing all that well - the pleats are stiffer and don't have the flexibility of a standard knife pleat. [*ducks* - I expect some will protest this analysis, but, hey, that's what I think. ]

Box pleated kilts don't swish and swing quite the same way as a trad 8-yard knife-pleated kilt, nor do Kingussie kilts - maybe it's because both typically have lower yardage, maybe it's the pleat symmetry. To be honest, though, swish and swing isn't the be-all and end-all, at least in my estimation. if you want an unusual kilt that knowledgeable kilties will admire, so what? Pick what you want and wear it with pride!

[seanachie]

I own several box pleats and highly recommend them. John Hart of Keltoi makes box pleated kilts and Kingussie pleats. I would highly recommend him. Great service, good workmanship and a very knowledgeable kiltmaker. The swish is different but not a negative to me, and they still get noticed as a kilt. Most folks outside of the kilt community only recognize a kilt not the pleating style.

[HarveyH]

... I could see from Steve's pictures that the box pleated fabric wound up making a thinner kilt...

Those pictures can't quite be relied on to show the thickness. Although they show clearly the different types of pleat, the cloth has been folded (rather like a hem) rather than showing the selvedge edge. This makes the knife pleats look much thicker than they would be on a finished kilt. Although you can see why you end up with much more cloth in a knife pleated kilt than there is in a box pleated one.

[Barb T]

Actually, box pleated kilts typically _are_ thinner than knife pleated kilts. In a box pleated kilt, 3 thicknesses are stacked on top of one another. In a knife-pleated kilt, it's commonly to have 6 (or even more) thicknesses stacked, particularly if the sett is large. See below:

[Domehead]

McMurdo, Mr. Ashton, Ms. Tewksbury,

Thanks for the "guide" shots of the pleating styles. Those are very helpful. I trust I'm straight to crop them out of this thread?

Ryan

[Barb T]

I trust I'm straight to crop them out of this thread?

Hi Ryan - what do you plan to use the image for?

[HootinHoller]

See below:

Thanks for posting that diagram. It saved me from using google-fu

[HarveyH]

Actually, box pleated kilts typically _are_ thinner than knife pleated kilts. In a box pleated kilt, 3 thicknesses are stacked on top of one another. In a knife-pleated kilt, it's commonly to have 6 (or even more) thicknesses stacked, particularly if the sett is large.

Barb, Thank you for the diagram, I was simply commenting that the photos of the folded cloth greatly exaggerated the thickness and I wouldn't want to anyone to decide on the basis of that set of pictures. You are, of course, quite correct that there is at least one additional layer and as your diagram eloquently shows there will be an extra thickness of cloth on a knife pleated kilt.