Hemming a Tank

**Rufus** · 6th October 04, 03:48 PM

I guess this question is for Jimmy, but someone else might know the answer.

I found a good deal on a "tank" ($280 USD), and the dimensions are perfect except for the length. The kilt is finished at 24" long with a 2 1/2" rise. I need a 21" with the rise. The company offered to hem the kilt for me, but I'm not sure if this is a good idea or not. Will hemming a traditional mess things up with the kilt like swing, hang, where the pleats sit on the hips, etc?

**Blu (Ontario)** · 6th October 04, 04:07 PM

Personlly, I would be inclined to have the kilt shipped and try it on before doing anything... just to be absolutely sure. If necessary, I'd have the kilt re-built with the reduction taken from the top thus saving the selvadge.

**Hamish** · 6th October 04, 04:36 PM

Originally Posted by Blu (Ontario)

Personlly, I would be inclined to have the kilt shipped and try it on before doing anything... just to be absolutely sure. If necessary, I'd have the kilt re-built with the reduction taken from the top thus saving the selvadge.

Absolutely right, Blu! A traditional kilt should never have a hem. The thickness of fabric would hinder the sharp pleating and the garment just would not hang well.

The only time I needed a traditional kilt shortening (I got it for £15 in a local charity shop), I had a local seamstress chop 2" of the top. OK, so it raised the level where the pleats start to hang free of stitching, but barely by an inch. It may not be 100% perfect, but it does well as a tenth-best tartan kilt.

Oh, and I was able to make a pair of excellent flashes from the off-cut!

**Rufus** · 6th October 04, 04:49 PM

Thanks for the tips guys. I didn't even think of having the top of the kilt altered.

I'm just not sure hacking 3" off the top will look right.

I'm a little leary of having a kilt hemmed, because of the reasons that you both listed.

I know that the kilt is an incredible deal, but do you think it might be worth is just to wait and get one made to the right dimensions? Maybe that would give Colin the right excuse to get his "tank".

**Hamish** · 6th October 04, 04:52 PM

I've been meaning to ask for some time: where does the "tank" word come from? I've not heard a traditional kilt referred to as a tank until very recently, and here at "X Marks...".

**bikercelt1** · 6th October 04, 05:08 PM

I'm not sure, but I think Jimmy came up with that because they're "heavy duty", like a military tank, as opposed to light-weight like an everyday vehicle.

Jamie

**Blu (Ontario)** · 6th October 04, 05:22 PM

Originally Posted by Rufus

.... do you think it might be worth is just to wait and get one made to the right dimensions?...

Get it re-built. What you paid probably covered the cost of the fabric. Worsted wool is not cheap stuff.

**macwilkin** · 6th October 04, 06:12 PM

I know that the kilt is an incredible deal, but do you think it might be worth is just to wait and get one made to the right dimensions?

If there is any doubt in your mind about the kilt and the procedures to fix it, then wait and get a kilt cut to the correct specs -- I think you'll be happier and will not doubt your decision.

Just my twa bob's worth...

Cheers,

T.

**Jimmy Carbomb** · 6th October 04, 10:27 PM

I've already PM'd Rufus on the subject, but remember that when you're taking THAT MUCH off the kilt, and removing it from the top, then you have to look at the hips, the sew-down on the hidden stitching, the buckle relocation, the lining, etc. etc.

When a REPUTABLE kiltmaker does the hemming, it's done with the expertise and care that a "tank" deserves. They also have the PROPER ironing and pressing machinery to make sure that the pleats still sway and hang. It's really not THAT much different from an 18 ounce and higher kilt. Above all... you're keeping the integrity of the waist, hips, pleats, buckle locations, and lining.

There's SO MUCH MORE to altering a kilt than many would think. The kiltmakers on this forum will tell you that the measurements, the precise sewing angles and tensions, the pleat angling for the hips, and MANY other factors go into a quality kilt. With that in mind... it's MUCH easier to have a knowledgable kiltmaker do a hem.

If it was MY opportunity with a deal like this... I would take it in a heartbeat! This is yet another example of how a wonderful "tank" can be obtained without dipping into the Whiskey Fund!

**Hal** · 7th October 04, 01:48 AM

Greetings,
OK...Bear with me, here.... I'll explain this as *I* understand it..

A Scottish kilt has no hem (of course) and the selvedge of the fabric *is* the "bottom edge".

Some Welsh mills (the one I bought *my* tartan from included) do NOT put such a selvedge on their fabric...Therefore requiring a hem, of sorts.

Perhaps a kiltmaker, experienced in dealing with such fabrics, could assist you? On inspection, my kilt has (sort of) a hem, and I'm quite pleased with the hang, and swing...

Just a thought!

Hal