Jimmy, I unfortunately do not know the answer to your questions. The pleats seem to be sewn to the bottom of the waist band, but the lining goes down way further than that. Here's what it looks like http://canadakilt.com/kiltmf.jpg

I really haven't had a lot of time to wear it or inspect it just yet. I am hoping to this weekend.

I would direct the question right to David at david@canadakilt.com

I will take a few photos this weekend, and send them to you on Tuesday (Monday's a holiday here) if that will help. Let me know what I should be looking for.