Evolution of Scottish National Dress in vintage catalog illustrations

[Pipersson]

The one in "Undress" from 1909 seems to be Tsar Nikolaus II.

[Farmer Jones]

On the early images where the gentlemen are depicted wearing a dirk, it just seems to be stuck there with no evidence of a belt.

[Theyoungkiltman]

Those first few, Talk about matchy-matchy!

[Galloglaigh]

After 11 attempts to register here under different names, we now have enough evidence to confirm that this is again Steven Aikens of Jasper AL. This time using an IP proxy in an attempt to hide his real location.

[Jock Scot]

For those that think Highland attire styles are "frozen in time" then they need to think again. Alright, any advertising catalogue is there to catch the imagination of a potential customer and ultimately to sell things and "then" is no different to "now" apart from the internet is probably the major selling tool of today.

Fads, fashions and details come and go as we can see so well when comparing "then" with "now", but many of the basics are still exactly the same. Interestingly, the catalogues of old, do illustrate perfectly why many Scots-----most even----did not wear the kilt ever and those that did, kept the kilt for special occasions, the simple three reasons are , firstly, the cost and secondly, who would wear that sort of attire, on the farm, down a coal mine, in a ship yard, on a fishing boat, in a line of unemployed and lastly, opportunity. For those who come to Scotland today, expecting many of the locals to be wearing the kilt on a daily basis and wonder why very few are seen, well the answer is the same "now" as it was "then", cost, practicallity and perhaps less so today, opportunity.

[Benning Boy]

What I find interesting is that the jacket cuffs appear to be more functional than those found on recent "traditional" attire. I'm sure they are not turn-down-able, but they sorta look like they could be. Perhaps it's just the way they are drawn, but they appear less vestigial than run of the mill cuffs today.

[Galloglaigh]

After 11 attempts to register here under different names, we now have enough evidence to confirm that this is again Steven Aikens of Jasper AL. This time using an IP proxy in an attempt to hide his real location.

[MacGumerait]

What gorgeous hair sporrans (molach) for Highland evening attire! I especially like the "Fine Angora Dress Sporran, No. 109" with the Prince Charlie style (chased silver top) cantle. Definitely my kind of sporran.

Ditto on that Kyle .

I am also very fond of sporran No. 105 . However , I think the boys at R.W. Forsyth got the description wrong on that one . I believe the correct species name is " Sporranus OCRichardius " .

[creagdhubh]

On older kilt jackets that I have owned they used to make some up until quite recently that had gauntlet cuffs that were not sewn down against the sleeve the way more modern ones tend to be. Also the waistcoat of a few decades ago usually had scalloped pocket flaps with piped stitching and buttons, which sadly most don't today.

Also on older Prince Charlie coatees and on Braemar style tweed jackets, the scalloped cuffs on the sleeve used to have raised stitched piping like scalloped pocket flaps do, but for some reason this seems to have been discontinued as well.

The arrangement of the buttons on the front of the coatee used to be different as well, not sure when this changed, but Kinloch Anderson still makes the coatee with the buttons arranged in the original manner, as shown in the coaee being worn by Sean Connery in this photo:



Here in this photo he is wearing a different coatee with the buttons arranged in the manner that has become more usual in recent decades:

As you stated, of course one can still order the coatee in the style first pictured, which is definitely my preference. I'm not a fan of the diagonal buttons on both sides of the coatee, nor on a Regulation Doublet for that matter. My bespoke Regulation Doublet in dark green velvet (made by Kinloch Anderson) has a three button front like the the first image shown in the 1950s Paisley catalogue.

As far as the other details you mentioned in regards to cuff and pocket flap details, one can still certainly have this done; though I do agree, most tweed kilt jackets and waistcoats do not come standard with the details you described. House of Labhran is a good place where one can observe this tradition still being done.

[creagdhubh]

Ditto on that Kyle .

I am also very fond of sporran No. 105 . However , I think the boys at R.W. Forsyth got the description wrong on that one . I believe the correct species name is " Sporranus OCRichardius " .

Hahaha! Well said! I like that. I'm sure Richard will to, once he chimes in.