"Tank" Hems and Professional Altering

[Jimmy Carbomb]

I just spent time in New York City with kiltmakers from Scotland. It was a seminar on methods, materials, and shared "secrets". I learned a few things that would AMAZE you! Their innovation and quietly-held methods are astounding. THAT'S how they get these things so daggum straight!

The highlight for me was the discussion and display on an "after-market selvedge". This applies ONLY to wool kilts.

When the wool is weaved at the mills, there's a certain "stitch" that is incorporated that makes it so that the wool will not fray. It is an old method that hides the weave, and maintains the pattern of the tartan.

What do a LOAD of the kiltmakers do when the altering requires that the length be shortened more than 1.5"? The majority CUT the wool, and produce a new selvedge with... get this... paraffin. This is not the normal candle paraffin wax, but a paraffin that's of a much higher quality. It does not turn white, does not dry stiff, and does not show in the wool.

It's heated to a liquid point, applied with a stiff brush (which allows it to be pushed into the fabric on the UNDERSIDE), and then dried. Once dried, it is ironed into the fabric on a light setting (on the FRONT SIDE). Any excess can easily be brushed away with a horse hair paintbrush... and the patience of an archaeologist.

Washing the kilt will not affect the paraffin. It's a natural deterrant to water. I was AMAZED at the look after it was done. I was even given a wool sample, some paraffin and shown how to do it. It was so easy that even I got it right!

You really never know what's out there until you seek the experienced ones! Those people have hundreds of years of methods that we just can't appreciate until times like this! Their hip pleating methods are incredible... and it GREATLY affects the hang and alignment of the pleats. That's why theirs don't "wander"!!!

[bubba]

Where might one get this grade of parrafin I wonder

[Jimmy Carbomb]

I have a block of it sitting right next to me, and it looks like a thick piece of plexiglas. You can actually do a search online to get this grade of paraffin near you. Just be sure NOT to get the candle variety. Not too many hobby or craft stores will carry it... but it does exist.

There's no need to thin-it-out either. (Forgot to mention that).

[mcnice]

thats what i meant with my bottom edge trouble. i mind if any tailor in austria could do this.

do u have any special name to add for an online search?

and what is their pleating method?

[Jimmy Carbomb]

There's not a name for it, except for paraffin. It is highly refined, and contains none of the impurities that are acceptable in candles.

As for the pleating issue... there's SO MUCH more to making the waist and hips measurements to the right dimensions. There's also MUCH more to making sure that the tartan pattern is consistant in the kilt.

What is OFTEN missed, is the method that it takes to insure that the pleats hang STRAIGHT and even. There's a third step in pleating that is often bypassed in kiltmaking... and it's essential for a quality hang and flow. That's a MAJOR difference in a "traditional" with the authentic craftsmanship, and a "formal" that has the basic looks without the sewing and pleating methods. As we've seen, there are a LOAD of "formal" kiltmakers around... and this is an easy designation between the two.

[Blu (Ontario)]

So did you all wear your kilts whilst in New York.

[Jimmy Carbomb]

I was up there doing some promotional work anyway, and had the kilts on-hand. Naturally, I wore one. The "Loud MacLeod" was appropriate.

I'm telling you... it was a revelation! It was like making wooden cabinets, and then you're introduced to Norm Abram from "This Old House". Suddenly, you have the secrets to making furniture!

[phil h]

sounds amazing, so what got you into this, I know you was a kilt maker before, but how did you hear about this?
this is like being invited into the "inner circle" of some ancient mystical society.

[Hamish]

Jimmy,

I am not a kiltmaker (although I have had a 'go' at it in the past*), but I should like to thank you, on behalf of all those traditional kiltmakers who spent years as apprentices, learning and honing their craft. The thanks are for your genuine and sincere appreciation of their patience, devotion and talent which goes into each and every traditional kilt they hand tailor for us.

* Sadly, I quickly came to the realisation that, to be a proficient, albeit amateur, kiltmaker, one needed to be both mathematician and engineer - I am neither of these!

[David in Maryland]

I was up there doing some promotional work anyway, and had the kilts on-hand. Naturally, I wore one. The "Loud MacLeod" was appropriate.

As a MacLeod I must say, excellent choice in tartan.