Traditional Highland Civilian Dress: A Definition and Guide with Visual Examples

[Nathan]

The following text was written by CMcG and Nathan with help and guidance from Jock Scot. It is the product of copious amounts of Xmarking, as well as personal experience and inclusive interpretation. While the native Scots and resident experts of this site have provided much valuable information, any errors or omissions are the fault of the two authors. All photos are of fellow Xmarkers and are used with thanks.

This short guide to THCD is neither an exhaustive list of options nor a strict set of rules, but it does attempt to separate the quintessential from the peripheral and the optional. Subtle deviation from the most conventional/popular choice does not necessarily make an overall look untraditional, and personal flair is encouraged. As a broad guideline, the Highland aesthetic includes contrasting or complementing colours and mixing patterns, so there is no need to fret over matching every shade in one’s outfit (being “matchy-matchy”) or pairing all solids with one’s tartan kilt. On the other hand, this does not mean going out of one’s way to clash, nor is it necessary, or desirable, to load on every single Highland accessory listed below at every available opportunity. Brigadoonery is to be avoided at all times.

Another consideration is that social, cultural, and environmental context are always key, as is a critical understanding of best practice in any given situation where one might wear the kilt. Regional and national tendencies, as well as adaptations to weather conditions, are perfectly normal; Scottish common sense dictates that one ought to make sensible compromises in accordance with the situation. That being said, this is Highland Scots attire we are talking about, so the ongoing traditional practice in the Scottish Highland remains the benchmark for how things are done. In short, THCD is a sartorial exercise in respect for oneself, others, and Highland attire.


Kilt: Wool or intended to resemble wool, usually tartan or more rarely solid (e.g., Hodden Grey or tweed), cut and made of 4 yards or more of fabric with an apron in front and pleats in the back, hem falls between middle and top of the knee, top buckles sit at natural waist. Knife pleats are the most traditional option nowadays.

Sporran: Black or brown leather for daywear, silver-coloured cantle and fur/hair for formalwear, full-mask anytime. “Semi-dress” sporrans are frowned upon by some as “neither fish nor fowl.” Notable exceptions to this schema such as brass or gilt cantles and fur front day sporrans are beyond the scope of this post but should be noted in passing.

Hose (aka socks): Worn slightly below the knee (three fingers or an inch or two), solid for daywear (optional patterned tops), solid or diced/Argyle for formal, typically worn with flashes (not usually tartan ones) or garter ties. Wool (or a blend) is traditional, but cotton is a good alternative for intense heat. Many traditionalists frown on white hose—day or evening—inspite of, or perhaps because of, their popularity with pipe bands and rental/hire companies.

Footwear (appropriate to the occasion): Brogues/wingtips (usually black) for smart or formal daywear. Black capped-toe Balmoral/Oxfords are also for smart or formal daywear, but may be pressed into service for black tie, assuming they are sufficiently polished. Thin-soled bar and buckle brogues or laceless slip-ons, either highly polished or patent leather, often with buckles for formal eveningwear. Opera pumps of monogrammed velvet or patent leather with grosgrain ribbon bows are also traditional for formal eveningwear. Ghillie brogues are favoured by some (especially pipers) and derided by others. If worn, they should not be laced too high up the leg like Roman gladiator sandals and one should differentiate between the thin-soled formal variety versus thick-soled, parade shoes. Sturdy lace ups (Derbys/Blüchers), loafers, hiking boots, or rubber wellies as terrain or activity dictates.

Sgian dubh (very common but not required): This small dagger is tucked into the stocking on the side of the dominant hand of the wearer and some of the handle should be visible above the fold of the hose. An ornate, black, sgian dubh with silver coloured metal mountings and sometimes bejewelled pommel is ideal for formalwear while a less ornate sgian dubh, often with a handle made of antler or simple wood, is ideal for daywear. Although sgian dubh means black dagger the knife handle need not be black, especially for daywear. Be aware of your local knife laws: where knives are prohibited it is best to go without or opt for a bladeless “safety” sgian.

Shirts (as with Saxon attire): For daywear, a pale solid colour, gingham checked, bengal striped, houndstooth, or tattersall, long sleeve shirt, with button down front. Generally, a spread, non-button-down collar is preferred by traditionalists. For formal daywear a crisp white shirt with French cuffs and a spread collar is usually preferred. For evening wear, white formal/full-dress shirts with studs or hidden buttons, cuff links, and pleated or piqué/marcella or smooth front are worn. For Highland black tie, a lay down collar rather than a wing style collar is generally preferred. Pseudo-Jacobite/Ghillie shirts with puffy sleeves and lace up collars are best avoided as anachronistic romanticism. In the summer heat, rolled up shirt sleeves or a short sleeve button down shirt is a more traditional alternative than the various sporting/informal options (golf, polo, rugby, or t-shirt).

Neckwear (preferably self-tied): A long tie or, less commonly, a bow tie, for daywear, either solid or with a conservative pattern (often repp, Regimental, or club ties). Black bow tie or jabot or cravat for formalwear. Despite their popularity at rental shops, ruche ties are not considered a traditional option by many advocates of THCD.

Jackets and tops: For daywear, tweed or other natural fibres are typical, and may be referred to as Argyll, Braemar, Crail, Wallace, or simply kilt cut jackets, depending on their style. All of the above are made with notch lapels, cut away to reveal the sporran in front, and are short enough to show pleats in the rear. They may feature epaulettes, fancy cuffs, and/or scalloped pockets, though this is a matter of preference. Buttons are often fashioned from stag horn or a synthetic representation thereof. A suitable alternative is just a sweater/jumper over a collared shirt with or without a necktie for more casual attire or shirtsleeves in warm weather.

Jacket/coatee/doublet (formal): Barathea wool or silk or cotton velvet, solid colored or tartan, the same length as day (or shorter), cut either with lapels or a standup collar, with or without tashes (aka Inverness flaps). Silver-coloured buttons and fancy cuffs are common features. This category includes the Prince Charlie coatee, dress Argyll (barathea with silver buttons, rather than tweed with horn buttons) and mess jackets, as well as the doublets: Balmoral, Sheriffmuir, Montrose, Kenmore, and Regulation.

Waistcoat/vest: Often a low gorge (usually three button) vest/waistcoat with a black bow tie for formal evening wear options like the Prince Charlie coatee, Regulation doublet, or dress Argyll, and a high gorge (usually 5 button) vest/waistcoat with a long tie for daywear. A very high gorge 7 button waistcoat is standard with the Sheriffmuir doublet. Waistcoats can optionally be tartan and bias-cut is the most popular choice, though square-cut is also seen.

Headwear (optional, and typically not worn indoors): Balmoral or, far less frequently, Glengarry bonnet; both are usually worn with a badge on the cockade. Fore and aft and deerstalker hats are also considered traditional choices. While flat caps were sometimes worn with the kilt prior to WWI, they are not presently considered a traditional choice in the Highlands. For hot and sunny conditions, practicality prevails and a brimmed hat, such as a Panama or Tilley, may be worn. Eagle feathers are a sign of rank. They, or other long feathers evoking the look, should not be worn by those who are not Scottish Armigers, Chieftains or Clan Chiefs.

Plaid: The fly plaid is a formal accessory sometimes worn by grooms, but is otherwise rarely seen with THCD nowadays. It is inconvenient for dancing and interferes with the hang of an open jacket like the coatee. Day plaids are sometimes worn with tweed daywear, though most frequently among titled gentry. Other plaids are rarely worn with civilian attire nowadays and are verging on the historical.

Optional accessories: Kilt pin, pocket watch, pocket square, and/or waist belt. Belts are generally not worn at the same time as a waistcoat/vest unless supporting a dirk, in which case they are worn over, not under, the waistcoat. The use of dirks by civilians is, however, rare nowadays and would be considered inappropriate in many contexts. If a belt is worn, a silver plate style buckle is ideal for formalwear and a less ornate belt with a post and hole buckle is ideal for daywear.

Outdoor accessories (weather and context dependent): Cromach, Inverness cape, Barbour or similar jacket. Long absent from THCD, spatterdashes (aka spats) and gaiters were historically common for keeping dust and debris out of one’s shoes and hose, which several Xmarkers have rediscovered for just such practical, outdoor purposes.

For a helpful description of different ways to put the options above together in a nuptial context, consult the handy “Scottish Wedding Guide: A Gent's Highland Wedding Outfit” by Xmarker MacRobert’s Reply (with input from our resident experts):
http://www.electricscotland.com/weddings/guide11.htm