Sewing machine advice wanted

[Stoff]

Now for a word from a sewing machine Luddite. I use and prefer my 1912 Singer treadle sewing machine. I can still get parts for her and she still runs like a champ. It was a gift from my in-laws, who knew I had been wanting one (it had been my wife's grandmother's machine). I also have an old Nechi school room machine (that I bought new) and a serger. I still prefer the treadle machine and have never had any problem sewing anything that I can get under the pressure foot.

Just my two cents worth.

Stoff

[ASinclair]

Now for a word from a sewing machine Luddite. I use and prefer my 1912 Singer treadle sewing machine. I can still get parts for her and she still runs like a champ. It was a gift from my in-laws, who knew I had been wanting one (it had been my wife's grandmother's machine). I also have an old Nechi school room machine (that I bought new) and a serger. I still prefer the treadle machine and have never had any problem sewing anything that I can get under the pressure foot.

Just my two cents worth.

Stoff

Hello, Stoff!

from a bit west of you.

If you have not already done so, you may want to introduce yourself in the Newbie forum.

[Stitchwiz]

Sounds like we have from beginners to experienced pros discussing sewing machines in this thread.
My comment is for the new sewers or someone buying a first machine.

It was my 93 year old 'sewing guy' who taught me how to clean and oil my machines around the time I started high school - he is still working in the same store he opened about 60 years ago! He has parts going back over 100 years, and a stack of manuals so high that he has to use a step ladder to see the ones on top.
He told me to forget the original oil and use transmission oil. Transmission oil has better viscosity than other oils and doesn't break down like the other oil. My (6) machines are quieter than any others I've used over the years! Some of my machines are ancient - early 1900s Singer treadle, right up to a machine from 1980 (purchased new). The proof is in the pudding - all of these machines have been well used, but they still stitch beautifully and quietly. The only major repair I've had was a pressure foot which had a worn out contact inside a sealed unit - on the youngest machine!

The most heavy duty home machine I have is a 1949 Pfaff 322 - older than I am. I have sewn 12 layers of heavy duty denim, no problem. Two layers of cowhide to make a ¼" thick belt, no problem. The presser foot sits at ⅜" in the up position & lifts a little higher to allow thicker items to be slid under the foot. It goes from a free arm to a flatbed in a moment. Everything is attached. It can do 80+ fancy stitches which I haven't needed to use, they are mechanical and built in. Nothing to lose and no computers here.
With a motor rated for 1.2 amps that actually goes to 1.5 amps, I have power. I can sew all day long and I do. I am sure once I get into machine sewing a kilt, I will have no problem. If it can sew heavy duck coveralls and parkas, it can handle a kilt. I have never bent anything more than a needle when I hit a pin. This is one TOUGH machine. I have tried almost every make of home machine, but this one is the toughest I've used and this is my 'go to' machine.

The industrial machines are super tough and FAST! They are more expensive, heavy to move but will last forever in a home setting. Just don't plan on rearranging your sewing room very often. Does your sewing machine repairman make house calls?

Do a Sewing Machine Test Drive:
Put together a variety of fabrics: silky smooth fabrics, cotton broadcloth, wool like you will use in your kilts, denim, leather - whatever you plan on sewing. Take large samples of these with you when you check out a machine. Try them all. Roll up denim into a tube and flatten it so you will have about 8-10 layers. Stitch down the length of the roll to see if it can handle it. If the thread breaks, try the leather needle. Be careful when you get to the leather, few machines can handle leather.
Take a few sewing machine needles, one for leather (and a slot screwdriver, in case the screw is tight). If any stitches are skipping, or it makes a 'plunk, plunk' noise, replace the needle.
Take 2 spools of contrasting thread. Test the stitching with different colours top and bottom - the stitches should lock between two layers of fabric.
Ask about the manual, bobbins, extra feet & attachments, other sewing tools - tailor's ham, sleeve roll, clapper, mannequin, tailoring tools etc. If they are selling the machine, they probably won't need these specific tools and you do.
Check the finish for wear - the less the better. Most sewers use lots of pins which scratch the finish.

Once you buy your machine, get it serviced by your sewing machine serviceman. He will fine tune it & it will be just like new! This will cost $65-$100. Have him show you how to clean and oil it. You will save $ doing it yourself. He can also show you how to adjust it. There are probably all kinds of features/tricks that he can show you.
Plan on a checkup for your machine when you get your annual checkup (saves time remembering when to get it done). This will head off any issues with excess wear & tear without doing any serious harm if you've missed any lubrication points. After that, service it every few years or if you have a problem. Cheap insurance.

The most critical things to know:
Lubricate the the race which holds the thread bobbin, every day that you sew, just a few drops needed. Use transmission oil, you can buy this at an automotive store - better for machine & cheaper by volume than the universal oil sold at sewing store!
Clean & oil your machine regularly - depending on how much you sew. I do my 2 regular machines every month or more often if they look dirty or get noisy - they are working 40-100 hours a month (that's the average annual use for most domestic machines). Steve's industrial machines do 40+ hours a week. All 6 of mine are cleaned every year, even if they haven't been used. Servicing is done every 2 years, or whenever needed.
Change your needle with every new project - they are cheap and are the most frequent cause of skipped or irregular stitches. Buy on sale or in bulk. Schmetz has an excellent guide for when to use each type of needle.
Use good quality thread. Good thread comes on sale at the same prices as the cheap stuff. Shop the specials. You deserve the best because your work will last a lifetime.

Hope this helps you on your adventure into kiltmaking!

Happy Stitching!

[sydnie7]

Stitchwiz, I'm curious what type of "transmission oil" you are recommending. There are many different types, starting with manual vs. automatic trans then all the variants in each of those categories. . . I have a hunch/informed guess you are talking ATF?

[ratspike]

Yup, I've seen ATF recommended as a substitute. Having never had any issues with regular sewing machine oil I can't see any reason not to stick with it. I'd think if it was in some way inferior I might have noticed by now. It's also super cheap, a pint can be had for a few bucks and a gallon for less than $15.

[Stitchwiz]

I tried to anticipate any questions, and that one is soooo obvious......thanks for asking so others will know.

Your instincts were right. ATF is amazing stuff.

During WWII when the oil and filter were changed in the jeeps, the mechanics always started to fill the crank with a cup of ATF and then topped it up with engine oil. That was standard operating procedure. It is used in our vehicles too - every vehicle has gone well over 300k and several have gone over 500k - all north american guzzlers, sigh.

I have taken old sewing machines, you know the ones, someone's Grandma's old machine that has been passed around the family looking for a home, without any TLC for 15-20 years, that rattles away like a machine gun when you start to sew... The metal inside the housing is usually slightly discoloured to a light tan - like light maple syrup spread out on an aluminum pie plate or the colour of cigarette smoke on the ceiling of a smoker's home. That's the cheap oil that has degraded - broken down. I've cleaned all that stuff out then lubricated it with ATF. It always takes a while to recondition the metal. All you can do is run the machine and keep adding ATF to each lubrication spot. It's amazing how much 'stuff' comes out with the new oil. Occasionally you will have to wipe off the excess - it will give a brownish tinge to the red of the ATF on a white cloth & you will know you are getting it out!
After 10-20 minutes you can HEAR the difference in the sound of the machine. It's a 'munch-munch' sound instead of 'clack-clack' sound. Soo satisfying. And that is without adjusting anything - it's just the ATF lubing everything.

This is why I have so many nice machines - they were unneeded and unloved and yet didn't have any problems. So I have the luxury of having some dedicated machines at work stations. The only expense was my time, cleaning tools and a squeeze bottle filled with ATF. I bought one of those bottles with the long tube inside the bottle that you pull out to lubricate with - I put the oil into a container for soaking/cleaning rusty tools, and refilled it with ATF. Perfect for putting the oil exactly where you want it.

I keep having machines given to me - I clean them up and pass them along to some of the young people in the area along with a few sewing lessons. It's good to see these work horses back in harness, so to speak. I've seen a few very talented sewers find their niche, and a few machines have gone to colleges with their new owners.

I'm just following in my mom's footsteps - she was an original who defined 'Reduce, Reuse, Recycle' half a century before it became a movement.

[Benning Boy]

For some purposes Dexron III ATF is considered the equivalent of sperm oil, and can be substituted for sperm oil in old formula.

[Pleater]

After finding some gun oil being sole off cheaply I used it on my knitting machines, and then on everything. It cleans and lubricates very well and there is no longer the same smell - it is usually inside the case of every machine I open up for a service or repair.

My Passap machines have never been stripped down, even though it is the standard advice to everyone on the knitting machine lists - the oil changed the brown needles to shiny, dissolved away the gunk, so no need to disturb the original construction as done by experts.

There are, however, two different types of design for sewing machines, one requires thick oil to fill up the gaps, the other a thin one as the tolerances are less. Use a thick oil on a machine requiring thin and it feels sluggish, vice versa and the machine rattles excessively.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

[Stitchwiz]

I'll have to try that, Anne. I'll get some at the gun shop next time I go that way. I know exactly what you mean by the smell. My machines don't have that smell anymore, thank goodness. Maybe because they sit out covered with a simple cloth to keep the dust off, not inside a case that doesn't breath. A case is better than no protection, though.

I have found only two kinds of oil here that is sold for sewing machines. I have a very old Singer brand can of oil which sits with my chain stitch machine as a display item only. The only difference between the old can and the new ones is that mine has 'fluid ounces' instead of mls.
The other oil is sold under the name Zoom Spout. The bottle is actually what sells this oil - the spout can be pulled out of the bottle to give you about 6" of very flexible tubing so you can put the oil right where you want it, & you push it back into the bottle when you are done. The oil is very thin and I sometimes start off with this oil and finish off with the ATF. It doesn't seem to break down in the same way as the Singer oil. I just preferred the ATF oil for quieting down the gears etc. It sounds like I have been using both oils like the two that you describe, just in a little different way.
There is a third oil which is silicone based which I bought for my industrial serger. I had to order it and have it shipped to me. I didn't think to try it when I had it. I passed this machine on to my sister who does upholstery for a hobby. I'll ask for a little and try it.

My hat's off to you. I've never stripped down a machine, seen it done, hopefully will never have to. All I've done is remove the bobbin casing assemble to remove bits of thread and LOTS of lint, lol. So far, the oil has done the trick. (Recycling can be very interesting - have found some very peculiar things in the bobbin area, & wondered how 'that' got 'there'.)

Hopefully 'my go-to-guy' will be around for a few more years so I can continue to pick his brains - he's forgotten more than I will ever know! These older repairmen are a dying breed, literally; at 93 he won't be here much longer. He always says good maintenance is 90% of the life of any machine - if you look after it, it will look after you. Regular cleaning and oiling the bobbin casing every day has paid off with no mechanical repairs to any of my machines.
When I had an intermittent problem with the foot control on my Husqvarna, I took it to three other shops and they supposedly 'fixed' it. I finally took the drive to his shop. He was the only one who knew it had to be sent back to the factory - he was honest enough to say "I can't fix this" - it was a sealed unit. Another rare thing, admitting when you don't know or can't fix something. He is a 45 min drive away - it's definitely worth the drive.

Back to this thread...everyone here is on a quest for more information and we all help each other out. I have learned so much here!

Thanks for your input Anne. Would love to have someone like you closer than 'across the pond'. Your clients are very fortunate to have you. And so are we!

Happy Stitching!

[Angstrom]

I don't know if they'd be appropriate for this use, but Sailrite makes simple heavy-duty machines intended for use on heavy fabrics. New ones are not cheap but a used one might be a good find.