Work In Progress - X-Kilt for my little lad

[Kronjin]

Hello!
I'm new to a lot of things here... Kilts, sewing (I couldn't even do a straight line when I first started this project), and sewing equipment...
However, since starting this project, I've come to realize that buying a kilt is paying 20% for materials and 80% someones hard work.
To start with, the little guy's measurements (a week ago.. he's probably grown 10 feet since then)
Navel waist: 28.5in; Rump: 35"; Fell; 7"; Drop: 18.5.
Anyways... Here's pics of what I've done so far!

Measuring Pleats
A pre-tapering test fit
Measuring for tapering

Next up! pinning and sewing the tapers down!

IMG_3575.jpgIMG_3581.jpgIMG_3583.jpgIMG_3606.jpg

[Dughlas mor]

Hi Kronjin, and welcome to Xmarks. I`m very impressed at your jumping right in and making a kilt for your son. It looks great and he looks like he likes it. Good luck on your next one and I look forward to the pics!

[Tarheel]

Well met Kronjin. I agree with Dughlas mor on this one, your lad is standing still wearing a kilt (in progress) and "mugging" for the camera. That's a sure sign of "like" in my eyes. From Oxford MS.

[Kronjin]

Thank you!! I'm not even finished with the first one and already planning on changes for making mine. Got a yard of duck canvas to play with different ideas, and thinking of doing 2" knife pleats 3" deep. Might be getting ahead of myself, but that combo seems like it would look pretty cool.
Also looking at his kilt and seeing about ways to re-do a seam or two and put in pockets.

[Taskr]

That is coming along very nicely! Looking forward to the updates.

[Norbo]

At least he's game for it my son hates his kilt .

[Stitchwiz]

Looks fabulous from here!
Just a word to the wise, be sure to use a press cloth when you get to that stage.
An old cotton tea towel or pillow case, wet and squeezed out will work well. Just make sure you don't press over a turned or stitched seam in the cloth you are using. You are trying to make sure you don't create shiny areas from the iron.
Pressing is not the same as ironing. Press, lift and press down in next area.
Ironing is moving the iron while in contact with the fabric.

Good job! Keep that camera handy!

[Kronjin]

Aah!! Good idea! I was wondering how to keep the shiny areas away. Now that I know the difference between pressing and ironing, when is one better than the other? (Or is pressing always better?)

[Stitchwiz]

When constructing, always press. Press each section before you move on to the next part of construction. That is the secret to having clothing that looks well made, as opposed to home made.

The kilt you are making isn’t a traditional looking kilt with lots of pleats, so you have an easier time ahead of you. With a traditional kilt, you should baste them down as described in The Art of Kiltmaking. Then use the press cloth. Barb’s book is your best friend during this process.

Wool usually shows the shine, so always use a press cloth. Once the press cloth is in place, if you don't have pleats under it, you can iron back and forth and you won't have the shine. This is fine for the aprons of your kilt.
If you have pleats, they will move if you go sideways across the pleats. If you start at the top of the pleats and iron straight down the pleats, over the press cloth, you will be ok. But if you find you start to go across the pleats, even with the cloth, stop - don't take a chance - to press is best.

You can turn a garment inside out to iron, but iron only up to the seam allowance, not over it. If you go over the seam allowance, then you will have the outline on the outside of the garment. If you want to iron the seam itself, slide a piece of non-coloured paper (you don't want colour of the paper to bleed with steam) under the seam allowances on both sides so that the seam allowance is cushioned.

Ironing is fine on shirts, etc because you won't see the shine. Cottons, poly-cottons and many other fabrics have a certain amount of shine to the fabric due to the type of thread, the weave and the finishing chemicals that were used during fabrication. Ironing usually doesn't bother them at all.

Always test your fabrics in an inconspicuous place or with scraps, so that you will know.

[Elf]

Thank you for the construction photos. Looking forward to more. And perhaps a "Dad and Me" shot. Keep up the good work.