Machine-sewn bag for MOD cantle (in progress)

**sydnie7** · 28th January 15, 04:15 PM

I've been toying with this idea ever since bagging (so to speak) one of the MOD cantles last year. Many hours of visualizing the process has brought me to the starting line. I began with the pattern shape that Tobus was so kind to post a while back, then played with it to narrow the "throat" at hinge level.

Outer dark brown leather is upcycled from a blazer that not only shrank in Bob's closet, but was showing its age in both miles and styles. Liner is beige pig suede from Tandy.

Lots of extra material in those blanks, I'd rather trim than think "wish I had cut this larger!"
Did some tests to set the stitch length, make sure machine can handle multiple layers, etc. I'm using a heavy cotton thread from Gutermann and, of course, leather needle.

I backed up the liner with hair canvas, which may be overkill but I didn't want the interior pockets to rip through at the top edges.

I have the front sewn to gusset but need to make a supply run tomorrow before proceeding. I tested and decided to sew a small cord around the front edge, test done with some yarn held double but I'll use a small upholstery cord (I think) for the final. I like the larger, rounded edge vs. just topstitching the edge of the gusset.

More to come! Including a clean-up of the cantle itself, of course.

**Bluescelt** · 28th January 15, 05:52 PM

great start! looking forward to upcoming photos.

**MacEanruig** · 28th January 15, 07:01 PM

Looks like it's coming together nicely. Please keep us posted with your progress.

**Destin_scot** · 29th January 15, 04:38 PM

Very nice, looking forward to seeing the finished sporan, (and a step by step photo journal of progress from concept to completion

)

**sydnie7** · 30th January 15, 02:29 PM

Did some more testing, proof-of-concept work this morning and made some for real progress as well.
Yesterday I spent some time at Joann's, of course while waiting for cutting table found all sorts of other stuff I didn't know I needed (40% off quilting notions, which includes lots of tools not limited to use by quilters) and a needle board on clearance! Anyway, also got the #10 snaps and thin cord that I came for. The cord is a nylon string intended for drapery/blind pulls but it is giving me the effect I wanted at the front/gusset seam. Some tests, including top/hinge area where the gusset will end up folded under, and bottom center where I would be sewing through multiple layers.

I've also folded back the edge of the top (where it will sit underneath cantle) and you can just see the start of topstitching. That's OK, as I plan to layer a contrasting color leather around the cantle edge. Here I'm testing the concept using a scrap of the lining . . . in reality I want to have interchangeable ones in red, green, maybe even purple (already have the purple leather miniskirt from Goodwill to act as donor!).

But will all that leather fit on the cantle attaching studs, plus a fastener? I had thought to use snap rings plus a snap to hold the liner in. . . but that's not going to fly. The snap ring would fit:

. . . but nothing left for the snap to grab. So I'll just slip the three layers of leather over the stud, sew the snap to the liner, and trust it to hold the whole shootin' match together.

**sydnie7** · 30th January 15, 02:42 PM

On to some progress. Topstitched the edge of front/gusset seam with thin cord inside the fold.

Now to fit the top of front inside the cantle. I trimmed my paper pattern back to remove seam allowances, placed it inside the front, and traced the fold line. . . several times, as it turns out! The perpendicular lines are to remind myself which is the "final" fold line.

Test-fit by folding it wrong way, holding with binder clips, and slipping it inside cantle.

OK, then folded it the correct way and snipped some extra leather out of the curves.

First time sewing this curve I could tell it was not going well, and a test-fit showed that it was too pointy/wouldn't clear the latch.

Fortunately, this part doesn't show so I could rip out about 1/3 of the stitching, just in affected area, and re-do it to better effect.

Might get some more done today but the process of uploading/posting photos sure takes away from work time, so don't hold your breath.

**Bluescelt** · 30th January 15, 03:47 PM

Almost there! Looks good

**MNlad** · 30th January 15, 03:57 PM

Great photo tour. That corded edge will add a very nice accent.

**sydnie7** · 31st January 15, 03:18 PM

OK, more progress made but one step backward means I wait for an Amazon delivery Monday before I can call this done. But I'm so close I can taste it!
Front trim piece. Started by just hacking one out of leather, then did what I should have done from the get-go and made a pattern. Started with the top half of my full-body template.

Traced another one so that I wouldn't be starting from scratch if I messed this one up

Sketched out the inner cut.

Cut halfway, then folded so the two sides would match.

Confirm the fit and appearance.

**sydnie7** · 31st January 15, 03:27 PM

Then cut it from green leather.

The back of this green stuff is pretty hairy, as you can see. I needed to trim the very edge of the cut to keep those fibers from showing. I actually have a skiver but got better results by cutting along the edge, from the rear, with scissors held at an angle. Final fit.

And the bag without liner in place. The liner will stiffen it quite a bit, right now the garment-weight leather just sags. The green will pop a bit more when the brass is polished but I think other colors will do better. Fortunately it's designed as a replaceable insert.

That's it for now. Hope to have this buttoned up Monday night, if not I'm leaving on a jet plane next week so it will be a bit before I post again.