Rethinking Irish Kilts (and a previously unseen vintage pic!)

[CMcG]

Happy St. Patrick's Day!

In honour of Ireland's patron saint, I've been rethinking the idea of Irish kilts. There's no need to go over the whole history here, but I invite people to refer to the well-researched article by Xmarks' own Matt Newsome and Todd Wilkinson , "Hibernian Dress, Caledonian Custom: A Brief History of Irish Kilts and Tartans." I'm working on more of an interpretation.

Kilts are not native to the Isle of Eire, and Irish people only began wearing them in the late 1800s. The idea was proposed and adopted by a small number of leaders in the Gaelic League who were reviving—or reinventing—Irish culture. They adapted the kilt from their neighbours, the Scottish Highlanders, who were also from a Gaelic culture, but had managed to preserve a modern form of their traditional dress. The League's ultimate goal was to found a republic that would be independent from Britain, which was eventually successful.

One of the leaders was Patrick Pearse, who wrote in a letter to J. O'Kelly dated 1900 that, "I should much prefer to see you arrayed in a kilt, although it may be less authentic." The lack of historical roots probably contributed to the kilt never really catching on among civilians in Ireland, but it became a uniform for many Irish pipers, regiments, and dancers. However, this origin may help explain why the kilt is now more worn by the Irish diaspora; a century is plenty long enough time to become a tradition in the former colonies

There are certainly commercial influences at work, with many Highlandwear outfitters promoting an Irish kilted look that is obviously based on the Scottish model, including a whole host of district tartans that were designed in the 1980s. I argue that there is also a strong desire among people of Irish descent who live outside of Ireland to construct and represent their identity through kilts, which is what Pearse proposed many years ago.

This is what Hobsbawm and Ranger (1983) call the "invention of tradition." Nonetheless, the Gaelic league were only about 70 or 80 years behind the kilt being re-imagined as the national attire of Scotland, the latter of which is described by Hugh Trevor-Roper in his chapter on the Highland Tradition of Scotland in Hobsbawm and Ranger's book.

I propose that Irish kilt wearers—in Ireland or abroad—can know the history, and still embrace the garment with style, grace, and pride. As Patrick Pearse wrote, "If you adopt a costume, let it, at all events, have some elements of picturesqueness." It may not be the national attire of Ireland or have an ancient pedigree in that country, but there is certainly something picturesque about the Irish kilt!

Thoughts and comments are welcome

Now, here is a picture of my buddy's Irish great-grandfather, Cormac O'Cadhlaigh, who was part of the Gaelic revival and wore the kilt in Ireland. He apparently taught Gaelic at a university and one can even find some of his textbooks around to this day. The image is a scan of the original photo and has not been posted online before.


And here is a board I created on Pinterest for Irish kilts both new and old:
https://www.pinterest.com/colinpmcguire/kilt-irish/

Who's wearing the Irish kilt today?

[McElmurry]

I really need to get myself a 5-yarder in HOE Ulster weathered. Thanks for the thoughtful post.

[CMcG]

I really need to get myself a 5-yarder in HOE Ulster weathered. Thanks for the thoughtful post.

One of these days, I'd like to get an Ulster Red. It's pretty cool that it's such an old tartan!

[denmcdough]

Colin, great article. I thoroughly enjoyed it! I really don't have much to add other than wearing a kilt in Ireland is rarely seen...been there and seen it. NOT! But, you're correct....it seems to be a diaspora thing.

[Jack Daw]

I have plenty of Irish roots on both sides of my parents, in addition to Scottish, and will not say never to the idea someday of wearing an Irish kilt. For now, all I can say is, where is Zardoz? He is the epitome of the Irish diaspora in kilt.

[macwilkin]

Colin,

A tip o' the bonnet (caubeen) to you and this "interpretation" of the Irish kilt and the diaspora! Thank you, by the way, for mentioning our article! That was a "labour of love", and one day I hope to revisit my section with some new sources.

A grand photo there, by the way! Can you tell us more about the gent in question?

T.

[OC Richard]

The thing that amazes me is how the late 19th century Gaelic Revivalists in Ireland looked at all the old images of men wearing saffron shirts ending at the knee, and imagined that these were kilts.

The very images the revivalists were looking at are well-known today, and it seems completely obvious that it's a saffron shirt.

Back in the 1970s when I was first getting into this stuff I remember people showing me these same old drawings and telling me that they were ancient Irish kilts. Even then they looked like the bottom of the shirts, to me.

[IGA]

I wore my County Fermanagh tartan on St. Patrick's Day. I even made a point of wearing the patron saint's color - blue, not green!

[Jock Scot]

I wore my County Fermanagh tartan on St. Patrick's Day. I even made a point of wearing the patron saint's color - blue, not green!

I am not an Irishman, but I too have always wondered where all this green comes from on St. Patrick's day?

[figheadair]

I am not an Irishman, but I too have always wondered where all this green comes from on St. Patrick's day?

I think the green relates to the Emerald Isle which, according to Wiki is the poetic name for Ireland due to its green countryside, first referred to in print by William Drennan in his poem "When Erin first rose".

I'm reminded of arriving in Belfast as a young Tom on an LSL (Jock you'll know what that means) and being lined up on deck by the Pl Sgt who, gesturing towards Divis Mountain (a misnomer if ever there was one) said in true military parlance "points to note: Ireland is not green".